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6 Dasher expander???

Phil

Gold $$ Contributor
What are you guy`s using to expand your necks to 6.5mm when forming your 6 Dasher cases?????

Phil.
 
I use a 25 caliber (0.257) expander mandrel (http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/sid=65113/sku/Sinclair_Expander_Mandrel___oversized__25_cal)
and holder die (http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=38807/Product/Sinclair_Generation_II_Expander_Dies) from Sinclair International. Going all the way to 6.5mm (0.264) is not needed to generate a robust false shoulder.

Cheers,

Chris
 
I use K&M die and expander mandrel, I also use K&M turner so it seems to mre compatible. I also agree necking up to 25 is plenty.
 
I don't understand why people bother with the false shoulder method. To expand the neck way up and then size the brass at the end of the neck back down again to load it over works and work hardens the neck of the brass. I just load 6BR brass with bullets well into the lands and then fire form it to 6mm Dasher brass and the Dasher cases come out very uniform and even in length. I cannot imagine how things can be better with the false shoulder method than what I am getting now. It seems like the false shoulder method is a lot of extra work for nothing (and it over works and work hardens the neck brass as well).

Am I missing something here?

Robert Whitley
 
I also fireform my cases simply relying on jamming the projectile 0.030" into the lands (using a slightly tighter neck bushing for xtra grip). I've fireformed 200 cases with no losses or misfires & still plenty accurate enough for varmint shooting in the process 8)
 
Unless you plan to turn with K&M equipment, I'd go Sinclair expander system techshooter linked.
Very useful system
 
mikecr said:
Unless you plan to turn with K&M equipment, I'd go Sinclair expander system techshooter linked.
Very useful system

OK.......I`m feeling gullable(SP?)...........Why??

What would the diffrence be??

Isn`t .257 the same no matter how you get there??

Am i missing something???

Phil.
 
rcw3 said:
I don't understand why people bother with the false shoulder method. To expand the neck way up and then size the brass at the end of the neck back down again to load it over works and work hardens the neck of the brass. I just load 6BR brass with bullets well into the lands and then fire form it to 6mm Dasher brass and the Dasher cases come out very uniform and even in length. I cannot imagine how things can be better with the false shoulder method than what I am getting now. It seems like the false shoulder method is a lot of extra work for nothing (and it over works and work hardens the neck brass as well).

Am I missing something here?

Robert Whitley

Using the just jamm does not mean you will have straight cases were the base is against the bolt face. This is why you should use the false shoulder method, IMO. Using just jamm, when the firing pin hits the primer, it can push the face of the case away from the bolt face. If your false necked, it can not.
 
Kodiak99317 said:
Using the just jamm does not mean you will have straight cases were the base is against the bolt face. This is why you should use the false shoulder method, IMO. Using just jamm, when the firing pin hits the primer, it can push the face of the case away from the bolt face. If your false necked, it can not.

FWIW, I have used the false shoulder method for years with other fire formed cartridges (the 6mmAR Turbo and 6mmAR Turbo 40 where the base brass starts out with a neck for a 6.5 mm bullet and you go down to 6mm).

Regardless, a symptom of what you describe (where the brass moves forward in response to a firing pin strike, or a stiff extractor that won't snap easy over the rim of the case and drives the case into the chamber when you close the bolt) is typically that the fire formed cases come out of fire forming with somewhat dramatic differences in the OAL of the brass relative to each other, much more than the nominal differences in OAL when they went in the gun as 6BR brass prior to fire forming. So I hear what you are saying, but I am not seeing it happening with my fire forming with the BRX or Dasher (i.e. the OAL of the fire formed brass cases, and head space of the fired brass is very consistent). If I had clear indicia that what you are suggesting was actually happening, then I might agree with you that the false shoulder method was the way to go.

FWIW, when I interviewed Bob Crone, he also confirmed that he did not use the false shoulder method with the BRX.

Hey, whatever works is fine, and I understand that just because you or I do things a certain way, does not mean that my or your way is one and only way it must be done in order for things to be right in the eyes of a certain shooter - that's for the shooter decide.

Robert Whitley
 
lynn said:
The K-M Expandiron costs about $13 and for fireforming or setting up the false shoulder 257 is 257.
I suspect MikeCR is telling you to not mix things up because when your turning necks down the road you want the mandrel and expander as a matched set.If you don't have the wrong expander you won't be able to use the wrong expander kind of thing.
Lynn have you measured the K&M mandrel?
I ask because different turning systems are not all the same in dimensions. I dropped K&M for turning because their mandrels were not the right size for my reloading needs. Sinclair was/is perfect.
And yes Phil, if you turn or ever think you might, this should be considered up front.
 

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