358 Win Barrel Thread ?

[Wwhite]

I recently re-barreled a Rem 700 SA into a 358 Win which is now legal in my state for deer hunting. I did not have the muzzle on the Krieger barrel threaded initially, but would like to now.

My question is, what size of thread to go with? The OD at the muzzle is 0.750, which I think puts me out of the 3/4-24 school, which unfortunately was what I was hoping to go with. 5/8-24 I think will be too small, so that leaves 11/16-24. I saw the video (https://bulletin.accurateshooter.co...le-barrels-use-larger-muzzle-thread-diameter/) which showed how barrels can flare if not enough "meat" is left.

Accuracy is my main objective, but it sure would be nice to have a sound mitigating device on it as well.

Thank you in advance for any insights.

 

[762plinker]

I THINK YOU ARE UP THE CREEK.
the saving maybe actual pressure.
it is best to buy enough bbl to begin with.
you need meat in the muzzle and with a 3/4 muzzle and a 358 bore.
me thinks you are up the creek

 

[FNSafari]

The .358 win is not a super hard recoiler is it?

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I think you have options. One is to use a brake that either is or can be made to have an internal shoulder for the muzzle to butt up to. Not as pretty as a blended in brake but effective and you could use a 3/4 thread

 

[Ray123]

I recently re-barreled a Rem 700 SA into a 358 Win which is now legal in my state for deer hunting. I did not have the muzzle on the Krieger barrel threaded initially, but would like to now.

My question is, what size of thread to go with? The OD at the muzzle is 0.750, which I think puts me out of the 3/4-24 school, which unfortunately was what I was hoping to go with. 5/8-24 I think will be too small, so that leaves 11/16-24. I saw the video (https://bulletin.accurateshooter.co...le-barrels-use-larger-muzzle-thread-diameter/) which showed how barrels can flare if not enough "meat" is left.

Accuracy is my main objective, but it sure would be nice to have a sound mitigating device on it as well.

Thank you in advance for any insights.

Go with 5/8 X24 ...I did on a 16" AR 10 ...works great lots of options ...open up the bore if its a 308 device device so that a 358 bullets passes through. Little recoil even with 250 gr bullets at 2250 fps in a 16" AR ...also 350 legend 170 gr can be used for more speed. And 9mm and 357 mag bullets for cheap plinkin... one of the best AR hunting calibers for "normal" hunting. Shot the 358 and the 450 bushmaster yesterday...the 450 has more recoil...but was able to get over 3000 ft/ lb of short range out of the bushmaster, with a 16" barrel...185 to resized .458 dia 500 gr bullets.
But the 358 Win has accuracy and a lot more range for general all around hunting.

 

[762plinker]

Go with 5/8 X24 ...I did on a 16" AR 10 ...works great lots of options ...open up the bore if its a 308 device device so that a 358 bullets passes through. Little recoil even with 250 gr bullets at 2250 fps in a 16" AR ...also 350 legend 170 gr can be used for more speed. And 9mm and 357 mag bullets for cheap plinkin... one of the best AR hunting calibers for "normal" hunting. Shot the 358 and the 450 bushmaster yesterday...the 450 has more recoil...but was able to get over 3000 ft/ lb of short range out of the bushmaster, with a 16" barrel...185 to resized .458 dia 500 gr bullets.
But the 358 Win has accuracy and a lot more range for general all around hunting.

5/8" not recommended by at least one major suppressor maker for a 30 cal, and now you want even thinner by doing 5/8's on a 358.
just not a good plan

 

[Ray123]

5/8" not recommended by at least one major suppressor maker for a 30 cal, and now you want even thinner by doing 5/8's on a 358.
just not a good plan

I, beg to differ, and apparently so does Wilson Combat where the barrel was purchased...they also sell suppressors for said barrel, as well as compete rifles in 358 Win.
The barrel is .700" dia and the brake dia .625" a total of .075" barrel diameter reduction or a tiny .035" step down from the barrel diameter to the threads...a lot of material left in the barrel wall will easily support a suppressor...remember folks "in the business" try to sell you "their product line", suppressors, specific adapters, quick change, etc.
But it's your barrel, your choice...just information from one who owns a 358 win...and it's workin for me.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I, beg to differ, and apparently so does Wilson Combat where the barrel was purchased...they also sell suppressors for said barrel, as well as compete rifles in 358 Win.
The barrel is .700" dia and the brake dia .625" a total of .075" barrel diameter reduction or a tiny .035" step down from the barrel diameter to the threads...a lot of material left in the barrel wall will easily support a suppressor...remember folks "in the business" try to sell you "their product line", suppressors, specific adapters, quick change, etc.
But it's your barrel, your choice...just information from one who owns a 358 win...and it's workin for me.

The only time I've actually SEEN an absolute, positive problem...to the naked eye..was where some idiot put a 1/2-28 brake on a 338Edge. Yep, the bbl visibly swelled under the brake, fwiw. No doubt. It bulged visibly. I cut it off and went to a 5/8-24 and no "apparent" problems since. I mean, it hasn't come back and the guy said it shoots great.

 

[Eagle Six]

If you don't want to cut it down for threads, you could opt for a clamp on thread adapter. A little on the ugly side but so are cans!

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

If you don't want to cut it down for threads, you could opt for a clamp on thread adapter. A little on the ugly side but so are cans!

I will just warn against any slippage on a cf rifle vs a rf rifle. The rimfire guys have been doing that for a long time. But there's a massive amount of inertia trying to move a tuner that is just clamped on a cf. It's actually wayyy more than I ever woulda guessed it to be worth. ANY movement is a disaster to tune. It's a pretty tough battle to keep a heavy scope from moving on an anodized Viper action, for example. More scope weight, more recoil, etc...the tougher it is.

Good action but that hard coat anodizing is tough to grip. I've seen Nightforces bounce off of concrete because of it.

 

[762plinker]

I, beg to differ, and apparently so does Wilson Combat where the barrel was purchased...they also sell suppressors for said barrel, as well as compete rifles in 358 Win.
The barrel is .700" dia and the brake dia .625" a total of .075" barrel diameter reduction or a tiny .035" step down from the barrel diameter to the threads...a lot of material left in the barrel wall will easily support a suppressor...remember folks "in the business" try to sell you "their product line", suppressors, specific adapters, quick change, etc.
But it's your barrel, your choice...just information from one who owns a 358 win...and it's workin for me.

the difference is cubic dollars.
your example the source sells both, so makes money on both sides of the sell.
in my example the source only sells suppressors, so may actually loose money by reccomending a thicker thread..i also own a 358, and a stack of 308's, 300wms ..and all have thick threads for their suppressors.
each to their own..but to be clear i would never own a 16" 308/358...each to their own

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

the difference is cubic dollars.
your example the source sells both, so makes money on both sides of the sell.
in my example the source only sells suppressors, so may actually loose money by reccomending a thicker thread..i also own a 358, and a stack of 308's, 300wms ..and all have thick threads for their suppressors.
each to their own..but to be clear i would never own a 16" 308/358...each to their own

In defense of suppressor and brake mfgs, I can see the desire..for example, a 223 muzzle device NOT screwing on a 30 cal bbl., for liability purposes alone.

 

[3Sigma]

Custom Clamp-On Threaded Adapter - Witt Machine

CHECK BARREL CONCENTRICITY BEFORE INSTALLATION OF ANY SUPPRESSOR, NOT LIABLE FOR DAMAGE Milled from solid 416 stainless steel bar stock to exactly fit your barrel, available in nearly any caliber and with either 1/2-28 or 5/8-24 threads. Finish options include tumbled stainless (matte) as well...

wittmachine.net

This is a route I'm considering for a stock remington 308 barrel as paying for threading and a brake for a factory barrel seems like a waste.

 

[762plinker]

Custom Clamp-On Threaded Adapter - Witt Machine

CHECK BARREL CONCENTRICITY BEFORE INSTALLATION OF ANY SUPPRESSOR, NOT LIABLE FOR DAMAGE Milled from solid 416 stainless steel bar stock to exactly fit your barrel, available in nearly any caliber and with either 1/2-28 or 5/8-24 threads. Finish options include tumbled stainless (matte) as well...

wittmachine.net

This is a route I'm considering for a stock remington 308 barrel as paying for threading and a brake for a factory barrel seems like a waste.

the clue to ignore this is the small threads..1/2 and 5/8..barely reasonable for 223

 

[Ray123]

the difference is cubic dollars.
your example the source sells both, so makes money on both sides of the sell.
in my example the source only sells suppressors, so may actually loose money by reccomending a thicker thread..i also own a 358, and a stack of 308's, 300wms ..and all have thick threads for their suppressors.
each to their own..but to be clear i would never own a 16" 308/358...each to their own

Cubic dollars? A ridiculous argument.
Since the 358 Win barrel was factory threaded for 5/8x24 ...I didn't buy a Wilson Combat brake ... didn't need to with all the popular muzzle brakes threaded 5/8x24...So Wilson Combat lost money with a common thread...I just used an extra I had on had for ...free.
You must be selling clamp on brakes...they are too ugly and bulky,... plus they clamp on, a big No for me...and something I wouldn't own.
Taking a just .035" off either side or .075" off dia of the barrel is not gonna make any significant difference in strength or structural integrity, as if it were full diameter of .7"
Mine threaded 5/8 24 works great, and why I recommend it...and Wilson Combat uses it on their barrels and complete rifles they sell...making it easy to change threaded components and "not using" their specific parts or suppressors. ..very convenient for customers.
I Don't believe your cubic dollars theory applies ...but you use whatever you want...but I won't be "clamping on" some big fat piece of 1" steel on the end of MY Barrel.
My suggestion for the .750 dia hunting barrel is 5/8 X 24 ...you will be happy. I am, with mine at .700" . If I could, I'd do it for free, is how confident I am...if ya don't like it, cut off the 5/8 " threaded portion and do whatever...easy.... no insufferable arguing, a simple job, with simple solutions and no clamp- on, but something streamlined and tasteful, as you care to make it.

 

[Eagle Six]

Custom Clamp-On Threaded Adapter - Witt Machine

CHECK BARREL CONCENTRICITY BEFORE INSTALLATION OF ANY SUPPRESSOR, NOT LIABLE FOR DAMAGE Milled from solid 416 stainless steel bar stock to exactly fit your barrel, available in nearly any caliber and with either 1/2-28 or 5/8-24 threads. Finish options include tumbled stainless (matte) as well...

wittmachine.net

This is a route I'm considering for a stock remington 308 barrel as paying for threading and a brake for a factory barrel seems like a waste.

I use a Witt Machine clamp on brake on 65 CM. It works and it is a bit ugly. My issue is finding the time to run the barrel to a smith and waiting two weeks to get it threaded.

 

[Eagle Six]

I will just warn against any slippage on a cf rifle vs a rf rifle. The rimfire guys have been doing that for a long time. But there's a massive amount of inertia trying to move a tuner that is just clamped on a cf. It's actually wayyy more than I ever woulda guessed it to be worth. ANY movement is a disaster to tune. It's a pretty tough battle to keep a heavy scope from moving on an anodized Viper action, for example. More scope weight, more recoil, etc...the tougher it is.

Good action but that hard coat anodizing is tough to grip. I've seen Nightforces bounce off of concrete because of it.

Slippage may be an issue with a can as well as alignment. My Witt Machine brake doesn't slip on my 65 CM. I would think the 358 would be more recoil with a can. Witt advises to use blue lock-tite on the barrel to clamp surface as a little glue and clamping with 18 inch pounds. I don't use the lock-tite, just 18 inch pounds and it has never slipped. However, it should be a concern to verify.

 

[Zero333]

I have 1 rifle with a clamp on Kahntrol muzzle brake. It's still hard for me to believe it's the most effective muzzle brake I've ever owned. Concussion blast is a different story.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I have 1 rifle with a clamp on Kahntrol muzzle brake. It's still hard for me to believe it's the most effective muzzle brake I've ever owned. Concussion blast is a different story.

Clamp on brakes and suppressors must deal with the very real liklihood of bore inconcentricity. They do this by making the exit hole larger than is necessary, sacrificing efficiency. I don't think this is even debatable but certainly, by how much..is.

So, can a clamp on brake or suppressor work? Of course it can! Is it the best..Well, almost certainly, those are not.

 

[Wwhite]

Thank you for all the replies. I have decided to go with the 11/16x24 thread and will monitor any “belling” of the muzzle with the appropriate pin gages. If I detect any “belling” I’ll review precision performance and potentially cut the barrel down and assess further options at that point. For note I have a 26” barrel, so I have a bit to work with without too much velocity loss.