35 Rem for a bolt action

[JSH]

358 and 356 are both highly overlooked by many.

35 Remington is a good cartridge and is capable of pretty good accuracy. Before I get to far, all of my work was done with a 14” TC barrel.
To mix things up a bit, mine will take standard 35 Remington and a rimmed sort. Yes rimmed. I have used 303 British and 30-40 Krag brass.

You might look at some of the old IHMSA data.

 

[Ray123]

338 Win there are many out there for cheap that someone says "It kicks too hard." Put in less powder.

Not me ...For my 338 Win mag, I put a bunch of RL- 26 behind a 275 gr bullet and push them out of a 24" factory barrel at 2675 fps...no muzzle brake from the prone ...and I'm almost too old to get up off the ground, without help.

 

[Ray123]

The difference

Has anyone loaded the 35 Remington a little hotter for shooting in a strong bolt action rifle? I’m not interested in pushing it up to 60k psi, but I’m certainly comfortable exceeding 35k.

Can anyone with actual experience shed some light on this? My goal is to get a 180 or 200 gr solid copper bullet fast enough to kill whitetails reliably inside 150 yards.

I’ve gathered that leverevolution might be the best powder to start with. I’ve read all the posts in the Marlin forum on this subject, but I still have questions

The difference in capacity between the 35 Rem and the 358 Win is Only 51 gr to 57 gr of water...almost 12% increase over the 35 Rem. But the max average pressures they operate at are a lot different because of the weaker Lever gun
35,000 CUP for the 35 Rem levergun and 52,000 for the 358 Win bolt ...so with a bolt gun you can greatly improve your velocities...just make sure ya don't put them in any lever gun....warning label them so 35 Rem shooters around you know. Just do a ladder test with your favorite bullet and Leverevolution powder, start reasonable and slowly work up, any pressure problems stop ....and pull bullets if the higher charges starts showing pressure signs ...easy ...and enjoy your 35 Remington...it will be a mini magnum in your gun.

 

[Ray123]

It can be converted from 308 or 06 but according to the guys a cast boolits it involves a lathe and lots of black magic.

Not magic,...but Yes a lathe with collets is necessary to turn the solid head, cut it down and add a deepened extractor groove...a reloading press does not have the strength to resize the solid head that much...I just made some 35 Rem out of Lapua 308 brass...to make it easier an intermediate home built die, might speed the process up...or big arbor press or hydraulic press.

 

[357Mag]

Has anyone loaded the 35 Remington a little hotter for shooting in a strong bolt action rifle? I’m not interested in pushing it up to 60k psi, but I’m certainly comfortable exceeding 35k.

Can anyone with actual experience shed some light on this? My goal is to get a 180 or 200 gr solid copper bullet fast enough to kill whitetails reliably inside 150 yards.

I’ve gathered that leverevolution might be the best powder to start with. I’ve read all the posts in the Marlin forum on this subject, but I still have questions

Ben-O -

Howdy !

I have loaded and shot a " wildcat " based on .35 Remington necked down to .224" calibre.
The brass ( Remington ) can take higher pressures liked you mention. IMHO - the pressure limit will be
set by the bullet wt selected, and powder / primer that is used.... moslty the first two.

Have you given any thought to using a solid cooper our brass .358" bullet, especially one that is
in-essence a hollow point that can be shot using a plastic aerodynamic " tip " ? I am specifically thinking about Cutting Edge .358" cal 150gr Extended Range " Raptor " bullets. The turned brass bullet wt is 150gr, while the copper iterration weighs 160gr. They do also make heavier .358" cal bullet weights. These can be shot with or without the plastic tip.

I have shot the turned brass 150s in my Marlin M-336XLR; and they proved to be super accurate.
The brass bullets are longer for their wt vs the same wt / cal jacket bullet w/ a lead core.
When seated in the case to fit my Marlin's chamber, the bullet fills the neck just like the Remington 150gr PSP did, and the 200gr Hornady's & Sierra's did. This would present no unusual problems for use in a bolt gun, as regards cartridge feeding and action cycling in a magazine-fed scenario.

The question is whether you can get the level of energy you feel is necessary, for an example 150gr humain kill on a deer. The 150 would get its energy via higher Mv than would be possible w/ a sample 200gr bullet.
The difference in obtainable vel would be something to consider, IMHO.

Also related to things like powder choice selected and obtainable Mv, is barrel length chosen.
My M-336 XLR .35 Rem has a 24" barrel, which is longer than what most -336's historically had.
To me, it made the rifle into a whole 'nother system, compared to the shorter barrelled mid -60's M-336
.35Rem I formerly shot..

I have seen an M-7 out of the Remington custom shop, that had a sporter wt .35 Rem barrel, and was outfitted w/ a composite camo stock. For a deer hunter that was allowed to legally use a .35 Remington bolt rifle; it would have been a pretty nice set-up. I do think that a " short action " ( as would be used for things like a .22-250 or .243Win ) would work just fine. For a custom rifle, starting w/ a .35 Remington XP-100 would be one way to go.

My .22-35 Remington wildcat worked just fine in my Wichita WBR 1375 single shot saction, which had a .308 bolt face. The rifle's bolt was fitted w/ an M-16 style extractor, and I never experienced any problems w/ feeding or ejecting either fired cases or loaded cartridges.


With regards,
357Mag