308 WIN F class FTR build information

[Bentnail]

Ok so I shot Fclass FTR this past summer and enjoyed finding out and learning in 223 REM. But wind at the distance part of some is my issue shooting 223 REM and noticing that most who shot around me would switch into 308 WIN in heavy wind. So here I am wanting to build a 308 WIN rifle for such shooting.

I am currently on budget (yeah my 223 REM is not top of the line but shoots well for me) So I have Savage action 110 bolt in 308 WIN. I have been eyeing the barrel and tallking to James at Northland Shooting Supply concerning the prefit savage barrels. I was looking at going with a 30 inch, SS match grade hand lapped, in a 1:10 twist to allow me up into the 200's if needed, in a Bull Barrel Contour per his suggestion, threaded for later use. I know that i need to be in under 18.0 lbs total with bipod and scope. So i was going to bed it into a Richards Microfit either the Benchrest Style stock or the Benchrest Sharpshooter Style stock. I am curious on what weight those stocks are in laminated. Originally I looked at Boyds laminated Pro Varmint stock but they will not make the stock in blind since I am shooting FTR. So up front I want to up and shooting here come March as in my area 1st comps will start in April like last year. I still need to develope loads for said setup but till i have a barrel that I can put on the action and stock I am not there yet.

Suggestions and reading also? On another forum i was directed to a site to read about lengths for 308 but in someways I think that site I went to was based on a Semi Auto setup such as LR308. I have one and no big thrill, I really enjoy the bolt action rifles. So ideas or information concerning length? That is my concern on this build, i have read previous threads saying 30 inch is a good length and that going to the 1:10 twist is good to allow for heavy bullets. As for distance most of my comps are 200, 400, 600 yards and few will include 800 yards as well.

Thank you for input....

 

[Fast14riot]

Can you pick up a factory Savage competition stock? If you've never had a Richard's not-so-microfit stock, just know that it's going to take a lot of finish work if you're not familiar with stock work. I've done a lot of stock and everything I do is by hand and its typically 20ish hours work for a Richards.

 

[Bentnail]

Can you pick up a factory Savage competition stock? If you've never had a Richard's not-so-microfit stock, just know that it's going to take a lot of finish work if you're not familiar with stock work. I've done a lot of stock and everything I do is by hand and its typically 20ish hours work for a Richards.

I am different sort of guy kinda of....I am a system engineer for work but also a master carpenter and master cabinetmaker on the side, so figuring that it is wood or laminated wood, i look forward to that aspect of the stock. I keep thinking bout finishing the stock in a HIGH Gloss Spar finish and I have read and talked to Helen with Richards that I will have to some wood working to fit the action and barrel to the stock and I am ok with that part too.

 

[NZ_Fclass]

I think that you are going in the right direction for a first 308. The Model 10 is not a bad action Iseally make a sled to fit the magazine cut out. Hardwood or plastic works fine.

Trigger - as you don't have the "red" trigger, perhaps the Timney insert is worth a go. It will be an improvement, with some careful adjustment.

Barrel - pre fits are just that. You may be lucky...but there's no reason not to get a barrel proerly fitted - and shouldered on the action. The smith will face the action too. Criterion make a good barrel at a good price.

Chamber - decide what projectiles that you will use. There's little point in having the 2013 FTR team reamer chamber to shoot 155g bullets. If you are shooting heavies - then that is the reamer to use.

Stock - the Savage Benchrest stock is nice if you can find one - and is the kind of shape -a flat bag riding rear that is common these days. The sloped rear is Ok for elevation adjustment, but most shooters use a flatter rear. I don't know much about microfit - other than I bought one of their thumbhole varminter stocks a long time ago and still have it with a 243 BSA in it. My FTR stock is a Joe West from the UK. You really need a longish forend to get the bipod away - it seems to work better for me anyway.

Remember that your max. weight includes the scope and bipod - Good shooting

 

[Fast14riot]

I am different sort of guy kinda of....I am a system engineer for work but also a master carpenter and master cabinetmaker on the side, so figuring that it is wood or laminated wood, i look forward to that aspect of the stock. I keep thinking bout finishing the stock in a HIGH Gloss Spar finish and I have read and talked to Helen with Richards that I will have to some wood working to fit the action and barrel to the stock and I am ok with that part too.

Part of my point, do you want to put a ton of time and money into a Savage F/TR gun that you will never get back? Nothing wrong with that as long as you recognize up front that it will never fetch what was put into it. At every car show, there is no shortage of 20 year old Honda civics all tricked out. Don't get me wrong, I have a $3000 Rem 700 F/open gun because that's the route I took with incremental upgrades over time when I finally took a step back and decided instead of money spent on my 700, I bought a custom action. My bonus got me a trigger and scope. I was fortunate to be sponsored for a stock, had a barrel blank on the shelf. Lots of great support from my gunsmith and stock maker as well as high level competitors.

Basically, how much do you think it will cost to get your 110 competitive before deciding you want to build a proper gun.