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308 loading problem

I have a Savage model 10 in 308 that I’m having trouble sizing brass for. If I shoot factory loads, I can size that brass and it fits and shoots fine. If I resize once fired brass fired from other rifles, the shoulder doesn’t get bumped enough to fit the chamber of the Savage.

My dies are RCBS full length. I’ve tried several brands of shell holders with no change. Yesterday, I colored a piece of brass with a black sharpie to see for sure where the problem lies, and it does appear to be the shoulder bump. I’ve loaded for several different rifles with these dies with no problem until I got this Savage. What do y’all think? I’m including the pic of the brass I colored.PXL_20240724_235502188.jpeg
 
Measure a piece of brass that will chamber and one that you have bumped that doesn't. What is the difference between the two? You'll need a comparator of some sort and calipers to do this. Could be you're just not bumping it far enough.
 
Measure a piece of brass that will chamber and one that you have bumped that doesn't. What is the difference between the two? You'll need a comparator of some sort and calipers to do this. Could be you're just not bumping it far enough.
I’ve full length resized for this rifle. Is there there a way to bump the shoulder more than full length resizing? Everything seems normal until I push the bolt handle down and it gets stiff. Bolt handle it also stiff when raised.
 
I have a Savage model 10 in 308 that I’m having trouble sizing brass for. If I shoot factory loads, I can size that brass and it fits and shoots fine. If I resize once fired brass fired from other rifles, the shoulder doesn’t get bumped enough to fit the chamber of the Savage.

My dies are RCBS full length. I’ve tried several brands of shell holders with no change. Yesterday, I colored a piece of brass with a black sharpie to see for sure where the problem lies, and it does appear to be the shoulder bump. I’ve loaded for several different rifles with these dies with no problem until I got this Savage. What do y’all think? I’m including the pic of the brass I colored.View attachment 1575485
When I had that issue, once a long time ago, I purchased the Redding Competition Shellholder Set. Changing the shell holder did the job for me.


Since then, I got the Forster Co-Ax press and don't need them and the adjustments are quite easy.
 
When I had that issue, once a long time ago, I purchased the Redding Competition Shellholder Set. Changing the shell holder did the job for me.


Since then, I got the Forster Co-Ax press and don't need them and the adjustments are quite easy.
A friend of mine told me about the Redding Competition Shellholder Set. I wanted to get some opinions from you guys. One of my shooting buddies has a Ruger American Predator 308 that will easily chamber and shoot the loads that stick in my Savage. Guessing the chamber is tighter in my Savage. It’s also quite a bit more accurate than the Ruger.
 
Measure NEW brass, once fired, and fired from other rifle.
Check headspace.
Shave shell holder.

New brass is likely short,
Once fired 'new' brass might still be a little short,
Twice fired 'new' brass is likely stretched to chamber.

I did a Savage in 22 Nosler for the wife.
22N new brass seems to always be short.
I set barrel about 0.001" LESS than GO (will not close on Go gage).
I size and FIT CHECK sized brass for easy close with bolt.
That should be about 0.001" headspace.
 
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If I shoot factory loads, I can size that brass and it fits and shoots fine. If I resize once fired brass fired from other rifles, the shoulder doesn’t get bumped enough to fit the chamber of the Savage.
This could be the problem, the other rifle chambers may be slightly bigger, the brass then requires more reduction to fit your Savage M10. Try annealing the fired cases then FLS. And, see post #8, Redding comp shellholders give less shoulder bump so I wouldn't expect them to be a solution here.
 

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