30-06. What are my groups/ or lack of telling me?

[LHSmith]

I will try this next time. I did not have the bag close to the fore-end. I will also be changing out the small rocks for sand. Someone originally recommended sand, but a buddy said that after time sand gets too compacted. Do you find this to be true?

If the bags are not overfilled you can massage the bag at each outing which prevents a "set" to the hardness. Also, I use Black Diamond Blasting media from Tractor Supply-$12/ 50 # which also resists settling once you initially form the bag to your stock and stays the same height during the shooting session. If you use mason sand or play sand, run it through a screen and use only the larger granules in the bag.

 

[LHSmith]

I have been meaning to get a bipod just have not done enough research yet. I also have a hard time justifying it because it was a 350$ rifle and good bipods seem to start around 75-100$. I think I may buy one soon though after doing some more research.

If you don't plan on using a bi-pod for hunting, I would stick with sandbags. Bi-pods add another learning curve which considering the end use of the rifle (hunting) would not offer any benefit.

 

[Bc'z]

I went back and re-read the OP's post, then did a Google search for his rifle. Seems he is not alone with accuracy issues. He said he is shooting the cheapest ammo he can get. That seems to be an issue because after 160 rounds he is getting the same results. The XPR is a massed produced rifle and on it best day will probably never shoot as well as Bc'z custom barreled 700. He's using a 2-7 power scope which is fine for a hunting rifle but not the best for shooting tight groups. And lastly, shooting way to many rounds before letting his barrel cool. Its a sporter barrel and a 30-06. That's a bunch of powder going through a thin barrel. My 243 gets really hot after 3 rounds so the 06 probably does to. He's using a bag filled with rocks and I would think that doesn't help either.

My thoughts, Empty out the rocks and fill your bag with sand and use a rear rest as well. Even though they aren't cheap, buy a few different box's of ammo as you know by now that what your shooting isn't working. Above all, keep an eye on barrel temp. Limit your shots to 3 shot groups and then let the barrel cool. If it were mine, I'd give it a good cleaning before doing any of the things I listed above. It won't hurt it. Of course there are other things you could do like putting it in a better stock or bedding the stock you have. Floating the barrel if it isn't already. Sorry for the long winded post but hope it might help.

My Kreiger is a #5 contour and it does shoot small, the factory sporter barrel shot small as well let me see if I can find you some targets out of my photo archive.
From factory barrel
3 shot seating depth test


A couple nice groups because I was told it couldn't be done3 shots 180gr partition 3x9 Bushnell
I still have this barrel on my toolbox as I couldn't bring myself to toss it out.
If the OP is shooting factory ammo I don't believe he's gonna see this kind of accuracy. All the targets posted above were shot shortly after becoming a member of AS and trying out loading techniques I learned here. The only modifications to the factory rifle was a bedding job and pull weight on factory trigger.

 

[cptjack]

remember it is cheap rifle feed it IMR4350MOR H 4350. ABOUT 55-57 GRS USE SAND BAG CLOSE TO RECIEVER shoot and shoot more

 

[LHSmith]

So the reason I asked about cleaning is a lot of websites say that it is important for rifles to build up a bit of fouling apparently to tighten groups up. If that is not true however then I am more than willing to clean after every time I go practice.

Allowing copper fouling in a factory barrel to build up "may" help accuracy. The problem is copper and carbon build up together in layers (like a sandwich). Once the barrel cools the carbon gets so hard that most chemicals can't remove it without a lot of scrubbing. Copper you can attack anytime. Get the carbon out before it hardens.

 

[dryhumor]

If you are running patches with solvent, follow the directions about how long to leave in the bore. Keep at it until no blue tint, the blue is a reaction to the copper. Run a dry patch last.

Run a couple of patches with denatured alcohol to remove the solvent. Then a dry patch.

Get some Kroil, run a couple of patches and let sit for a few hours. Run a bronze brush 15-20 strokes, and a couple more wet patches of Kroil. Repeat this until the wet patches come out clean or a very light grey. Then a dry, two alcohol, and another dry. Your barrel should be pretty clean.

I do this when accuracy drops or I want to try a different load. Seems to work well.

Your options are different brands of ammo, different weights of bullets/ammo, while keeping the barrel cleaner and staying with three shot groups to minimize heating.

If you have the time and patience, you could shoot a target with clean barrel cold bore conditions. That will be multiple trips. I have found that a couple of my barrels put that shot higher, and have also found that 2-3 rounds into it the barrel stabilizes. I try to give 2-3-4 minutes between shots.

You might also try some 180 grain ammo. Keep in mind there will be more recoil and torque.

 

[Gary in MD]

Considering the gear being used and the manner it’s being shot, the accuracy that the OP is getting is about what I would expect.
I find that both my 30-06s shoot better when I hold the forearm, it really helps me control the recoil and jump. Get rid of the rocks! Let more time elapse between shots, your barrel is got to be getting too hot for good accuracy. Try different ammo, maybe try some Federal stuff loaded with Sierras or Nosler ballistic tips. I’d clean it good after each range session.

 

[David Milisock]

Hey guys. I have a Winchester XPR chambered in 3006. I have taken it out and put about 100 rounds through it over the past few weeks. I have been shooting from a table, using shooting bags filled with small stones as a rest. What are my groups, or lack of, telling me? A few things I have noticed.

1. Recoil from the 06 tends to throw my finger to the right or left after I pull the trigger.
2. The gun tends to jump up a bit after every shot, thus causing me to need to reset the gun on the rest which does not allow for constant conditions.
3. I do not let the gun cool between each shot. I know different people have different opinions on letting barrels get hot. Should I be always shooting with a cool gun?

Shooting conditions:
Firearm: Winchester XPR Caliber: 30-06
Scope: Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32 Magnification used: 7x
Ammunition: Hornady American Whitetail
Distance: 91.44m/100 yards
Bullet: 150-grain interlock soft point BC: .338
Humidity: 60%
Temp: Varied between 73-75F
Wind: Around 12 mph South (12mph headwind)
Elevation: 680 feet
Pressure: 29.78 Hg

With those things in mind, the trigger is really bothering me. The trigger on the Winchester has no take-up, for my other rifles I could close my eyes, and while pressing the trigger tell you exactly when it was going to fire (rifles like Marlin model 60, or any of the savages). With the XPR, the lack of take-up means that once you reach a certain pressure, the gun fires.

One last thing; My father and brother have also shot it. All in all the gun has been shot about 160 times. With accuracy in mind, how often should I be cleaning the gun (round count)?

I appreciate any and all feedback. If this post annoys you because I can find this information elsewhere, please refer me to that elsewhere so I can seek the information out.

The 10-shot group was shot first and the 4-shot group second. Both groups were shot within 3-4 minutes max. 14 shots fired, 14 hits on target. View attachment 1431805View attachment 1431806

I'm not sure if the current process is helping or hurting you but I'll describe what I do for my purchased rifles. As a hobby I'll buy a rifle, (mostly 30-06) I have model 17's, 03, 03A3 and any assortment of Savages, Remingtons, I also have 6.5 x 55 Swedes and 8MM Mausers.

None of these files will in general ever be more than a 1" shooter. I spend very little on the rifle and then only if I don't see something too expensive to repair. Once they can hit 1" groups I stop working.

I remove the action and check for binding between the stock, (90%) of accuracy improvement usually occur by a few adjustments here. All my WWI, WWII rifles have been originally sporterized by someone with a hatchet. In the end they all have had pressure points added to the barrel bedding.

In the beginning I use better than field bags, a Hornady front and rear reason with sand. I start in close with iron sights, them move on to an optic at 100 yards, I place moderatepressureto the forearm.

Slow your fire, some even very good field rifles will only produce 3 good shots in 1/2 hour. All my WWI, WWII 06's from cold bores produce the first 2 rounds of 3 shot groups nearly touching, spreading the 3rd shot to make 1"groups. These bores are not and never will be 5 shot groups fore a multitude of reasons.

I've played with maybe 30 rifles that have worked the same way. Most are just stock work, others just a real cleaning, one had a nick in the muzzle crown. Some scope mounts were buggered.

Outside the things I've mentioned use sand in your bags, slow your fire, hold the rifle when firing, shoot 3 shot 100 yard groups when happy move to 300 yards and work you reloads. You should be able to get loads that mill for you.

 

[Hntnhrd]

In no way am I an expert. But I would take between 60 to 70 people hunting each year. When I would have them check zero the afternoon before the hunt I would see all kinds of crazy stuff happen with peoples guns. My first guess by looking at your targets would be trigger pull . You stated you don’t like the trigger in your post. With a lite rifle you may be pulling rather then squeezing and moving the rifle ever so slightly pulling your groups to the right. And with that a little up and down. Cheap guns can shoot, and a lot of the times it’s the trigger that makes or breaks it.
I have a savage that was 179.00 new with a $150 Nikon scope. With a little tweaking on the trigger it sends factory Remington core locts under 3/4 of an inch at 100 yards. It was my “camp” gun for when guys would show up with $1000 rifles that would t stay on paper.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

No wind flags? Those horizontal spreads are a clue

 

[Luisyamaha]

Try better ammo. "cheapest you can get" may not be good enough. I'd try Federal 168gr. Gold Match. At least it should give you a better benchmark to try other stuff as have been suggested in the previous posts.

My progression has always been better ammo, better trigger, best glass I can afford.

Best of luck,
Luisyamaha

 

[Lynn Brase]

I have a US Repeating Arms Win M70 FW in 30-06, very light barrel. I worked up loads with IMR 4350, W760, H4831, H4895, Superformance, with 125gr. to 200gr. Was able to get them all to come in at just under .60".
Used three shot groups from min to max or until pressure signs. The action is bedded in the stock an barrel free floated. Work great, not a target rifle.

 

[FNSafari]

Wow, you must have shot a boat load of rounds in that experiment! 5 powders and multiple bullet weights.

 

[Prose]

A hard front rest paired with a flimsy plastic stock can cause excess muzzle jump and twist. Too much downward pressure on the stock with your head or off hand loads tension into the stock and it jumps out of the bags when you fire. You should not be expecting this rifle to have good bag etiquette even with good technique. Consistency is about as much as you can hope for.

A tip for shooting a light plastic rifle is this. Take a soft towel and place it over the front bag. Also use a rear bag. Don't put too much pressure on the stock with your cheek, shoulder, or left hand. Try to use even pressure at each contact point. Try 1-2 pounds, or 5, but not 10 or 15. Visually watch the stock looking for flex. You'll find a sweet spot and can be consistent with practice.

Recreating this in field conditions is often what causes frustration with POI. A bipod can be useful for consistency from the range to the hunt, but loading the bipod too much can cause the same issues.