243 catbird build

[Bill Norris]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the Catbird came out of Jarrett Rifles' shop and was based on the .270 case. He liked stuff that was fast and shot flat.

May have been but originally Lazzeroni I believe was the author of those cartridges.

 

[Knotwild]

May have been but originally Lazzeroni I believe was the author of those cartridges.

Could be. But the Catbird is one of those things that could be dreamed up by anyone. I know this: If I built one to shoot a lot, it would come with a two or three extra barrels. Kenny also came out with the .220 Jaybird about the same time. Then he found out the 22-250 Akley was simpler to make brass for and the same in performance.

 

[JPB3]

IMO, don't, on the catbird... You'll be happier with a 22 Creed.

 

[JPB3]

But, I have a 6-06 AI reamer I'd sell.. It's only cut one chamber and did a great job on it..

 

[358WCF]

Im just trying to figure out the cheapest way of doing this.

A #1 probably ain't it unless you can find a 243 or 6mm Rem to rechamber. The cheapest I've seen a #1 go for in the last few years has been in excess of $1K. More likely $1500 or so for a decent one. Gunsmithing & a new barrel is $700-1000 extra**. A rechamber should be a bit less.

If you dont absolutely have your mind made up on a single shot, a reasonably decent complete used bolt gun can be had for less than 1/2 of that. Find a 243 in a Tikka or pre XTR push-feed M70 when they still used long actions for everything & have it rechambered. Remington 700s & parts for them are everywhere. Just rebarrel it. Too bad their 243s are on short actions. If you want a repeater, you'll need a long action.

Decent complete bolt gun actions can be had for around $400-500. There are a couple M70 & 700 long actions in the classified section this week. Then you can practice your stockmaking skills or buy a cheap used stock to go with it for $50-200, or a Boyd's prefit for c.$200-350. Machining & fitting is still extra, but again, figure somewhere around $700-1000 for a barrel installed... or do the Remage thing & save even more $$.

This whole discussion might be more productive to have with the smith you plan to use for the barrel work. There should be a few good ones fairly close to you.

Dont forget the custom dies. CH will run around $130 for Group E with a 6 to 24 month wait time if not in stock. Not sure if RCBS still makes customs, Redding & Hornady do. Maybe Forster too. You will need to send along a few fired cases or a reamer print.

**Fitting a barrel to a #1 may be a bit more $$ than a threaded barrel for a bolt gun. Do your own research on that, then do the math.

 

[BeauD]

A #1 probably ain't it unless you can find a 243 or 6mm Rem to rechamber. The cheapest I've seen a #1 go for in the last few years has been in excess of $1K. More likely $1500 or so for a decent one. Gunsmithing & a new barrel is $700-1000 extra**. A rechamber should be a bit less.

If you dont absolutely have your mind made up on a single shot, a reasonably decent complete used bolt gun can be had for less than 1/2 of that. Find a 243 in a Tikka or pre XTR push-feed M70 when they still used long actions for everything & have it rechambered. Remington 700s & parts for them are everywhere. Just rebarrel it. Too bad their 243s are on short actions. If you want a repeater, you'll need a long action.

Decent complete bolt gun actions can be had for around $400-500. There are a couple M70 & 700 long actions in the classified section this week. Then you can practice your stockmaking skills or buy a cheap used stock to go with it for $50-200, or a Boyd's prefit for c.$200-350. Machining & fitting is still extra, but again, figure somewhere around $700-1000 for a barrel installed... or do the Remage thing & save even more $$.

This whole discussion might be more productive to have with the smith you plan to use for the barrel work. There should be a few good ones fairly close to you.

Dont forget the custom dies. CH will run around $130 for Group E with a 6 to 24 month wait time if not in stock. Not sure if RCBS still makes customs, Redding & Hornady do. Maybe Forster too. You will need to send along a few fired cases or a reamer print.

**Fitting a barrel to a #1 may be a bit more $$ than a threaded barrel for a bolt gun. Do your own research on that, then do the math.

Yea ive been looking for a while trying to decide what i want.
I have a custom 3006 and a browning medallion 7mm08. 7 mag adl. I decided on the #1 long before the caliber. I really want stainless. I think i could do that of i go 22-250. Amd still be able to rechamber. I thought about just doing a 22-250 #1 but i wanted a touch heavier bullet. My dad has a 22-250ai amd a 7mm stw. After i get it done ill be buying a new stock for it as well. You can get some really beautiful wood pretty reasonable for #1s. I want it to be a masterpiece.

 

[Infrequent Shooter]

I really like number ones ,especially the varmint models. I was lucky enough to find one in 25-06 and while I didn't hold a lot of hope that the barrel was still ok it actually surprised me and shot well for a used rifle. I had figured someone had blazed away at pds or something silly like that. I had fully intended to rebarrel it with a faster twist, as luck would have it a moderate dose of H4831 slings the 85 Nosler BT out of that stubby 24" barrel at 3425fps. My point is simply that a used 25-06 might scratch your itch for a legitimate Ole wildcat that deserves your consideration. I'm very happy to say that Starline thought enough of it to offer brass too. Perhaps one day Randy with offer a 257 vld and then that old barrel will get changed. I recently found some reasonably cheap old Sierra 100 grain Spitzers from a member on this board and the dang thing shoots them well too so for now I am ready for any unsuspecting deer or woodchuck that happens along.
Matt

Nice Ruger there 17VLD.

 

[distinguished]

I'm thinking that by the time you fireform brass, it will be time for a new barrel. This thread has probably lasted longer than a barrel will. Lol! A .25-06 is the easy button, especially with the newer bullets being offered and it is a standard chambering with easy to find ammo, reloading dies and components, etc..

 

[AckleymanII]

Warning: Many of the #1 barrels on early guns were junk, and I mean pure junk. Tight and loose spots in the bore, rough to boot. The beauty of the wood got me sucked in for a while.

Later #1 barrel quality was heads and shoulders above the early barrels in quality. If you are serious about the project, I would spend the money on a high-quality barrel, Brux, Krieger, Meuller, Hart, ABC, Lilja, etc. Some gunsmiths know their way around #1 in the three-point bedding system on the forearm, and replacing the trigger.