Conrad
Silver $$ Contributor
I’ve recently switched from shooting 69gr smks to 75gr BTHP’s out of my RRA 20†Predator Pursuit to capitalize on the better ballistics but still remain magfed. I’m achieving good accuracy and velocity and the bullets are BN coated.
My problem is that with the 75gr BTHP’s,Hornady) I’m experiencing a pronounced “cannelure†at the O-give from the seating die,Forster Competition). I experienced this only slightly with the 69grer’s,and seemed to fix it). The brass is from a batch of 1000 once shot LC,presized and deprimed). I noticed when I first started loading the 69gr smks that there was too much neck tension, and I opened up all of the necks with my regular Redding FL die with carbide button. Doing this gave me a neck measurement of roughly .245 on average, and the 69 smks seemed to seat better after this. I can’t even say that the 69 smks had any deformation afterwards but being coated the sizing die ring will show slightly. The 75’s are definitely deforming more so though. Again, I think I still have too much neck tension.
My fired brass from my rifle measures .251 to .252 at the neck and from best as I can tell my brass thickness seems to measure .013 to .0135. I only have calipers, but I’ve measured neck thickness by both direct measurement, and then also measuring the OD of the neck and subtracting the ID to get neck thickness. I did this on multiple pieces of brass. On my shot brass it seems like the brass thickness might be slightly thicker than the unshot,from my rifle) as it seems more like .012. I would assume the shot brass from my rifle is the important measurement. This was just an observation.
My two questions that I have are:
1) Does it seem like I should get a Redding FL Bushing die with a bushing of say .247 or .248,.224+.013+.013-.003 = .247) to reduce neck tension,any preference between the two, remember I’m shooting BN coated bullets)?
2) For the remaining ~250 pieces of “tighter†brass that I’ve already primed, should I just load it up and shoot it, or should I look into getting some kind of expanding mandrel? If so, which mandrel?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Conrad
My problem is that with the 75gr BTHP’s,Hornady) I’m experiencing a pronounced “cannelure†at the O-give from the seating die,Forster Competition). I experienced this only slightly with the 69grer’s,and seemed to fix it). The brass is from a batch of 1000 once shot LC,presized and deprimed). I noticed when I first started loading the 69gr smks that there was too much neck tension, and I opened up all of the necks with my regular Redding FL die with carbide button. Doing this gave me a neck measurement of roughly .245 on average, and the 69 smks seemed to seat better after this. I can’t even say that the 69 smks had any deformation afterwards but being coated the sizing die ring will show slightly. The 75’s are definitely deforming more so though. Again, I think I still have too much neck tension.
My fired brass from my rifle measures .251 to .252 at the neck and from best as I can tell my brass thickness seems to measure .013 to .0135. I only have calipers, but I’ve measured neck thickness by both direct measurement, and then also measuring the OD of the neck and subtracting the ID to get neck thickness. I did this on multiple pieces of brass. On my shot brass it seems like the brass thickness might be slightly thicker than the unshot,from my rifle) as it seems more like .012. I would assume the shot brass from my rifle is the important measurement. This was just an observation.
My two questions that I have are:
1) Does it seem like I should get a Redding FL Bushing die with a bushing of say .247 or .248,.224+.013+.013-.003 = .247) to reduce neck tension,any preference between the two, remember I’m shooting BN coated bullets)?
2) For the remaining ~250 pieces of “tighter†brass that I’ve already primed, should I just load it up and shoot it, or should I look into getting some kind of expanding mandrel? If so, which mandrel?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Conrad