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223 Clickers

jhunter

Gold $$ Contributor
I own 2 different bolt guns with different chambers. One is a compass lake and the other is a 223 Wylde. I really enjoy shooting the compass lake chamber but I am experiencing clickers on fired cases. My bolt hangs and I have to force it open. This happens with mild loads and of course with heavier loads. My brass has gotten mixed up with fireformed cases from each gun. What would you do? My options are to load up brass for my ARs (Lapua and Norma brass) or is there a way to fix this? Would a small base die fix my problem?
 
The clickers likely caused by expanded base in the cases of those fired in the larger chamber - or one chamber allowing for a significantly longer shoulder. Surefire way seems to be to use the short-base die and check shoulder length to be sure shoulder is not too short (as measured form the base) for the chamber being fired in -as may have to blow forward with reduced load first if it is. If it were me - before running through this exercise - I'd measure each case base diameter about 1/2" from end of case and see if some are significantly larger than others. I'd then sort them aside. Then, Id check to see if the shoulder lengths on those are all either shorter or longer.
 
Although loading accurate rounds for your guns is fun and rewarding, it requires some discipline in keeping each guns brass separate, organized and records kept. A small base die will fix your problem but measure your shoulder set back carefully for each gun as you use the die. I made the mistake of oversizing a bunch of 223 brass with a small base die. I had to throw out 500 cases because I was getting 50% case head separation from the loaded rounds.
Add: That was years ago, guys! Before I joined this wonderful wealth of knowledge!
 
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Might consider getting another set of 223 dies so you will have one set for each rifle, or just another FL sizing die depending on the budget.
 
Would also be worth taking some micrometers to the case body just above the head to "see" if you can spot the difference between ones that have expanded and ones that have not. It isn't easy getting down into inspections like that and it doesn't always pay off, but sometimes when the planets align you can learn something.

I used to run multiples of guns, for example had some friends who wanted to start hunting with me so we all went with 30-06. Mine were hand built and theirs were factory stock REM 700. I ran hunting loads in mine that were warm, and a little softer for theirs. Inevitably someone didn't know that I segregate brass and they mixed it all together but I didn't catch this till later. I had some clickers and figured out what had happened.

Short version, between the different pressures and chambers, I was able to sort that brass very well with a micrometer. However, I was also able to get the bulged ones to pass through all the guns again with that small base die as well.

Good Luck.
 
Try an inexpensive Hornady Match grade full length sizing die.

I started with a Redding die for my bolt action and it works fine, but found when sizing cases for a Compass Lake CLE chamber, I'd get failures to extract.

Switched to the Hornady and problem goes away. Must be just a tad more sizing which helps with the tighter CLE chamber. (CLE recommended the Dillon die, but I had a Hornady so I tried it and no problems since)
 
IIRC the CLE chamber reamer spec is very slightly tighter at the base than the Wylde. Not much, probably less than a thou, but possibly enough that cases fired in the Wylde would 'clickers' coming out of the CLE.

A small base die *should* handle it, or if that doesn't size far enough down the web area, a 'ring' die will - if you can find one.

Might be best to just dedicate the current brass to the Wylde chamber, get new for the CLE, and pay attention to keeping them separate this time. Unfortunately, new 223 brass may be a bit hard to come by right now...
 
I believe Dillon has the carbide ring at bottom of die....loaded thousands of 223 and never a problem in tight chambers...
 
I had to throw out 500 cases because I was getting 50% case head separation from the loaded rounds.
I think most of us (if not all) have pushed a shoulder back way too far on at least one occasion. If one pulls the bullets, re-sizes the neck for tension, then seats a bullet long enough to make contact with the lands with a reduced load, the shoulders will blow out and the brass spared to live again. I know you know this - but some folks newer to reloading might not.
 
I think most of us (if not all) have pushed a shoulder back way too far on at least one occasion. If one pulls the bullets, re-sizes the neck for tension, then seats a bullet long enough to make contact with the lands with a reduced load, the shoulders will blow out and the brass spared to live again. I know you know this - but some folks newer to reloading might not.
Yup!....and those were different times. Brass was cheap and everywhere. I would find a bucket full at the range, every time I went!
 
Segregate your brass, anneal, and only bump the shoulder back to .001 to .002 under snug chamber fit. I prefer to neck size my 223 bolt gun brass. I only FL size and anneal once I start to get "clickers" as that indicates the brass has fully fireformed to the chamber and no longer springs back enough to extract easily.
 

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