223 Barrel length?
- Thread starter laangler
- Start date
I have 223 Rem's with barrel lengths of 20", 22", 24" and 26".
While I don't do a lot of shooting off the bench (I shoot practical ranges sessions off shooting cross sticks) I like the 24" in a medium contour, such as the old Browning A Bolt, Varmint Stalker, which has a 24" No. 3 contour. It's a good compromise giving you a rigid barrel but not overly heavy.
But if all you're going to do is shoot off the bench then a 26" long, heavy contour (No. 5) would be my choice giving you maximum stability, better heat dissipation, and the potential to higher velocity with the correct powder.
While I don't do a lot of shooting off the bench (I shoot practical ranges sessions off shooting cross sticks) I like the 24" in a medium contour, such as the old Browning A Bolt, Varmint Stalker, which has a 24" No. 3 contour. It's a good compromise giving you a rigid barrel but not overly heavy.
But if all you're going to do is shoot off the bench then a 26" long, heavy contour (No. 5) would be my choice giving you maximum stability, better heat dissipation, and the potential to higher velocity with the correct powder.
If I was only shooting targets at 100-300 from the bench with it, I don't see why you'd go any longer than 20". I think a 18" in heavy varmint or even thicker would be great. An extra 100-150 fps isn't going to show much benefit at that distance. I'd also add that since you already have a 24" I don't see why you'd take the time or cost hit to make it shorter, just keep it as is.
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I am finding that short, fat barrels tend to have wider tuning nodes and vary less in temperature changes. I just put a 24 inch, 8 twist heavy target barrel ( one inch at the muzzle) on my model 12FV action and put that in a Savage laminate stock. Chambered in 6.5 CM it is crazy accurate shooting 140 gr. SMK's.
My 223, also 8 twist is a heavy varmint ( 7/8 '' at the muzzle) but 26 inch is also amazingly accurate.
So I am leaning towards shorter and fatter for ease of tuning at shorter ranges. YMMV.
My 223, also 8 twist is a heavy varmint ( 7/8 '' at the muzzle) but 26 inch is also amazingly accurate.
So I am leaning towards shorter and fatter for ease of tuning at shorter ranges. YMMV.
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
21 3/4" varmint contour
Ned Ludd
Silver $$ Contributor
I have owned .223s with a variety of barrel lengths from 10.25" (Sig 556 pistols) to 30" (F-TR competition rifles). For shooting with good precision at 100 to 300 yd, a barrel anywhere from 16" to 24" can be perfectly adequate. Within that length range, you're largely talking about increasing the velocity slightly with each additional inch of barrel length, anywhere from perhaps 10 to 20 fps per inch of barrel, or thereabouts. Increasing the velocity certainly buys a small amount of resistance to wind deflection for a given weight bullet, but it is not huge.
In your case, I would recommend a couple things. First, if you intend to replace the factory barrel, get yourself an 8-twist or a 7-twist barrel. That will allow you to run heavier, higher BC bullets that will likely have a far greater impact on your precision at 300 yd than will increasing the velocity a few fps with a slightly longer barrel. I would suggest a barrel length of around 26" if you're going to go that route. It's not so long as to be unwieldy, but will also allow you to generate reasonable velocity with heavier bullets. Second, get yourself a high quality barrel from a reputable manufacturer such as Bartlein, Krieger, Brux, etc. (there are many others), and have it chambered with a freebore that allows you to optimally seat bullets in the ~80 gr range. Within reason, you can still be able to load lighter bullets in a rifle with longer freebore, but having the longer freebore provides you with the option of optimally loading the "heavies" that can make a big difference when shooting a .223 in windy conditions. In fact, such a setup would allow you to easily stretch the range out to 500-600 yd, or even farther.
In your case, I would recommend a couple things. First, if you intend to replace the factory barrel, get yourself an 8-twist or a 7-twist barrel. That will allow you to run heavier, higher BC bullets that will likely have a far greater impact on your precision at 300 yd than will increasing the velocity a few fps with a slightly longer barrel. I would suggest a barrel length of around 26" if you're going to go that route. It's not so long as to be unwieldy, but will also allow you to generate reasonable velocity with heavier bullets. Second, get yourself a high quality barrel from a reputable manufacturer such as Bartlein, Krieger, Brux, etc. (there are many others), and have it chambered with a freebore that allows you to optimally seat bullets in the ~80 gr range. Within reason, you can still be able to load lighter bullets in a rifle with longer freebore, but having the longer freebore provides you with the option of optimally loading the "heavies" that can make a big difference when shooting a .223 in windy conditions. In fact, such a setup would allow you to easily stretch the range out to 500-600 yd, or even farther.
I bought my wife the predecessor to your rifle. Savage 110 FP.
24" with a 1:9 twist.
Got into IBS/UBR, and "groundhog" matches this year.
For 223, the 24" barrel has done pretty well.
I'm shooting 69gr SMK over Alliant PP2000MR.
My biggest obstacles are..
1) stock
2) trigger
3) better optics.
Load yourself some 69gr SMK (or 73gr Bergers)and go out and shoot.
Quite fun!
24" with a 1:9 twist.
Got into IBS/UBR, and "groundhog" matches this year.
For 223, the 24" barrel has done pretty well.
I'm shooting 69gr SMK over Alliant PP2000MR.
My biggest obstacles are..
1) stock
2) trigger
3) better optics.
Load yourself some 69gr SMK (or 73gr Bergers)and go out and shoot.
Quite fun!
For what you describe, a bench rifle with a range <300y, I’d recommend:
- 8tw
- 28”
- > .800” at the muzzle. (Med Palma or Savage varmint or heavier
- Wylde chamber
there’s no need to go over 80gr for ranges <300y. So 8tw will do all you need. 28” gets you great mv and keeps the blast away from you and makes for more enjoyable shooting. And it’s short enough you’re less likely to blow up bullets that come apart in 30-32” bbls.
If you want to give up more versatility, you can go 10-12tw and tailor for 52-53gr bullets.
- 8tw
- 28”
- > .800” at the muzzle. (Med Palma or Savage varmint or heavier
- Wylde chamber
there’s no need to go over 80gr for ranges <300y. So 8tw will do all you need. 28” gets you great mv and keeps the blast away from you and makes for more enjoyable shooting. And it’s short enough you’re less likely to blow up bullets that come apart in 30-32” bbls.
If you want to give up more versatility, you can go 10-12tw and tailor for 52-53gr bullets.
I agree with @TAJ45 and @AHC-223AI, just keep it since you’re just fooling around.
When the day comes to replace it you will not go wrong with 24-30 inch. A different twist for that matter also. Ned will give you some of the best, if not the best suggestions and information you will get. It's almost like E.F.Hutton.
My Criterion 1:7" MTU contour is 28" so that is the proper length.
RegionRat
Gold $$ Contributor
I might be out of date, so do your research... but Savage did go all the way out to 30" with their 12 models in 223 and offered them with the 1:7 twist for target work. To get the benefit, I would go with as heavy a bbl profile as you can get, and at least 26" or more so that the blast is off the end of your bench and the recoil is so low that you can watch your trace. It teaches good form and follow through off bags and bipods to track your recoil and see your shots. At 300 yards, there isn't much delay so the gun can't go way off line and make it back in time if the bbl is too light.
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