22 Talldog

[ASbobcat]

How are you Talldog reloaders pushing the shoulder back?

My Lapua 6BR brass is tough. Hard to imagine pushing that shoulder back .100.

Any tricks?

 

[ricco1949]

I've converted some 22-250s to near 6BR with a cutoff 22-250 die however I increased the neck diameter in the die.

It was tough but attainable. I believe the 22-250 route is also a talldog MO.

 

[Mulligan]

Redding forming dies.

CW

 

[Mulligan]

Call Accurate Arms and Ammo
Good Christian folks that provide an exemplary service. CW

 

[ASbobcat]

Redding forming dies.

CW

Thanks

Are you happy with the result?

If you had it to do over, would you still do the Talldog, or would you to a Walldog?

 

[ASbobcat]

Call Accurate Arms and Ammo
Good Christian folks that provide an exemplary service. View attachment 1696111CW

Thank you very much.

How much do these cost?

 

[Mulligan]

I have both a WalDog and TallDog, The WalDog I have had for several years and is easily the most accurate cartridge I have ever shot. I have been playing with the TallDog for a little over a year and with N135 or 8208xbr it is superbly accurate. If I had to start over again.......... tough choice for me personally.
I have pulled the PPC barrels off my comp rigs and this year have been shooting the two above cartridges.
Maybe, just maybe, I am weird????
CW

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

A 220 Beggs puts you at about the same capacity as a WalDog...fwiw. It shoots great and it's super easy. A 6/22 Grendel or maybe an ARC would be very close to a TallDog but has a ppc base. Again, super easy. Nothing wrong with a waldog or talldog...just a lot of work and I'm not sure there is any gain from it.

 

[Mulligan]

Thank you very much.

How much do these cost?

I do not remember, give them a call.

Super good folks
CW

 

[ASbobcat]

I have both a WalDog and TallDog, The WalDog I have had for several years and is easily the most accurate cartridge I have ever shot. I have been playing with the TallDog for a little over a year and with N135 or 8208xbr it is superbly accurate. If I had to start over again.......... tough choice for me personally.
I have pulled the PPC barrels off my comp rigs and this year have been shooting the two above cartridges.
Maybe, just maybe, I am weird????
CW

Thanks

Let me rephrase the question.

Assuming both are equally accurate, which was less trouble to form?

What is the relative difference in case capacity?

Appreciate the info.

 

[boltfluter]

A Waldog case is very challenging to make. Which is putting it mildly. But, superbly accurate! The most accurate round I have ever had the pleasure of shooting. No experience with a Talldog.
Paul

 

[ASbobcat]

A Waldog case is very challenging to make. Which is putting it mildly. But, superbly accurate! The most accurate round I have ever had the pleasure of shooting. No experience with a Talldog.
Paul

Thanks Paul

Which "version" do you have, and what dies/method did you use to form brass?

Bob

 

[Mulligan]

Thanks

Let me rephrase the question.

Assuming both are equally accurate, which was less trouble to form?

What is the relative difference in case capacity?

Appreciate the info.

I don’t think either is tough to form at all.
Trimming the cases back after shortening is the biggest issue.
A cheap chop saw from Harbor Freight makes fast work of that on the WalDog.

I have an auto (Lyman and Frankfurt ) case trimmer set up to trim each.

The TallDog you’re not pushing back as far, so a bit less trimming.

WalDog = 0.125”
TallDog = 0.080”.

Of course those are appropriate.

When you push the 220 russian shoulders back 0.125” with a shortened 22-250 die, then blow them out to 30* you end up 0.107” short…… not 125 short. Many folks make that mistake. Dan Dowling chambered my WalDog and he and I had several long conversations about the length. He said folks get confused or misunderstood sometimes about what he described so many years ago.

I had a 0.253” neck reamer made for my WalDog and love it.
I ordered a set of 40 degree bushings for my NJ die and in the process of getting an improved version drawn up.

I had my TallDog built with a 40 degree shoulder. And zero freebore. With the freebore set at zero, the effective freebore is about 0.016”. Which I feel is perfect. I gained capacity with the 40 degree shoulder and used it to stuff the bullet further into the neck. I also left the neck longer on my TalkDog improved for the same reason and to keep any donut formage away from the bullet.

I apologize for not responding sooner, I was on the road yesterday after my post driving the Mrs up to ID to get her grandbaby fix before the snow flies.

CW

 

[ASbobcat]

I don’t think either is tough to form at all.
Trimming the cases back after shortening is the biggest issue.
A cheap chop saw from Harbor Freight makes fast work of that on the WalDog.

I have an auto (Lyman and Frankfurt ) case trimmer set up to trim each.

The TallDog you’re not pushing back as far, so a bit less trimming.

WalDog = 0.125”
TallDog = 0.080”.

Of course those are appropriate.

When you push the 220 russian shoulders back 0.125” with a shortened 22-250 die, then blow them out to 30* you end up 0.107” short…… not 125 short. Many folks make that mistake. Dan Dowling chambered my WalDog and he and I had several long conversations about the length. He said folks get confused or misunderstood sometimes about what he described so many years ago.

I had a 0.253” neck reamer made for my WalDog and love it.
I ordered a set of 40 degree bushings for my NJ die and in the process of getting an improved version drawn up.

I had my TallDog built with a 40 degree shoulder. And zero freebore. With the freebore set at zero, the effective freebore is about 0.016”. Which I feel is perfect. I gained capacity with the 40 degree shoulder and used it to stuff the bullet further into the neck. I also left the neck longer on my TalkDog improved for the same reason and to keep any donut formage away from the bullet.

I apologize for not responding sooner, I was on the road yesterday after my post driving the Mrs up to ID to get her grandbaby fix before the snow flies.

CW

Fantastic information. I really appreciate all the details.

I will be chopping of my own $20 Lee F/L 22-250 die, and cutting my own chamber, so headspace is not critical. I have the chop saw and a dremel.

If I'm going to go to all this trouble, I obviously want the brass to last. So an important question is, have you had time to see any difference in brass life between the W and the T?

Another decision factor is availability of F/L dies

Thanks for all the info.

B

 

[Mulligan]

Fantastic information. I really appreciate all the details.

I will be chopping of my own $20 Lee F/L 22-250 die, and cutting my own chamber, so headspace is not critical. I have the chop saw and a dremel.

If I'm going to go to all this trouble, I obviously want the brass to last. So an important question is, have you had time to see any difference in brass life between the W and the T?

Another decision factor is availability of F/L dies

Thanks for all the info.

B

For dies,
Harrels will shorten a PPC die for the WalDog. And MAY do the same with a dasher die for the TallDog?

I had Forster shorten a bra die for the TallDog, then ordered a custom from Hornady just to try them out.

I had Neil Jones build me a custom WalDog die after seeing how accurate the WalDog was.

All the die’s mentioned above work.

Seating dies, Wilson ppc shortened and dasher shortened work great.

The Hornady sizing die came with a threaded seating die that is very good


CW

 

[ricco1949]

Seating dies, Wilson ppc shortened and dasher shortened work great.
CW

I recently chambered a personal 6BR and didn't have a 6BR Wilson seating die.

Rather than make a new die I simply made a button, the correct height, that fits in a 6x47L .100 short die I already had. I attached the button to the cup that comes with Wilson blanks.

Works just fine...