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204R keyholing 32's ???

I had a similar problem with my 17-223. 20 and 25 grain Vmax bullets would shoot fine, but the 25 grain Hornady HP would hit sideways. The bullets were coming apart and I would sometimes see a puff or smoke trail. If the barrel was just cleaned it would be okay for a few shots.


Hornady 25 HP-1.jpg
 
I had a similar problem with my 17-223. 20 and 25 grain Vmax bullets would shoot fine, but the 25 grain Hornady HP would hit sideways. The bullets were coming apart and I would sometimes see a puff or smoke trail. If the barrel was just cleaned it would be okay for a few shots.


View attachment 1055734

Hmm....maybe i should try a lower velocity? Maybe thats why the 40's are ok.
 
Everyone gets all stirred up over some copper fouling. So getting them squeaky clean, does it really make such a huge difference?

I have a 7mm barrel, it likes to be fouled. Several doses of wipe out and it is so clean it won't shoot worth a darn. Takes 20-30 rounds to get it back to shooting,average regular group is 1/2-1" @ 200. Have no idea how many rounds as it was used when I bought it.
JB and Kroil for close to 700 rounds, then it is time for wipe out again. Been doing this particular rig for about 10 years. 600 rounds gets me through the year with this one anymore.
But really, getting ALL the copper out, does it improve anything?
Dunno what the heat and pressure does, but when you braze the brass actually absorbs into the steel to some extent.
 
Hmm....maybe i should try a lower velocity? Maybe thats why the 40's are ok.
If you are shooting beyond 250 yards you are better off shooting the 40 grain bullets velocity wise, so I would just shoot 39-40 grain bullets. Slowing them down might help, but it shouldn't be necessary. Have you tried more than one brand or lot of 32 grain bullets?
I wanted to try wet moly coating some bullets so I used those 25 grain bullets for a test since I didn't plan to shoot them anyway. I decided to load some up and shoot them after moly coating them and I didn't have anymore blow up. I didn't shoot many with the moly coating so I can't say it was a fix for sure. The bottom line for my gun was that I had a problem with one particular bullet.
 
Everyone gets all stirred up over some copper fouling. So getting them squeaky clean, does it really make such a huge difference?

I have a 7mm barrel, it likes to be fouled. Several doses of wipe out and it is so clean it won't shoot worth a darn. Takes 20-30 rounds to get it back to shooting,average regular group is 1/2-1" @ 200. Have no idea how many rounds as it was used when I bought it.
JB and Kroil for close to 700 rounds, then it is time for wipe out again. Been doing this particular rig for about 10 years. 600 rounds gets me through the year with this one anymore.
But really, getting ALL the copper out, does it improve anything?
Dunno what the heat and pressure does, but when you braze the brass actually absorbs into the steel to some extent.


I Don't think we're getting stirred up over the fact that we believe Barrels have to be squeaky-clean. the o p has an unusual problem and we're trying to help him solve it .when bullets Keyhole it's usually twist or something wrong with the barrel .without a bore scope we would be guessing on the condition of the barrel, whether it has an unusual amount of copper fouling and/ or a flaw. I'm glad you're having good luck with Wipeout. I wanted to like it but
using my borescope ,,looking at the condition of the bore before during and after decided that it did not work for me but it might work for some people
 
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I'd find another use for that barrel besides using it to shoot with.

Two days ago I used an old barrel by wrapping some sandpaper around it to hog out the bedding in the barrel channel of a stock.

Avoid the hassle and save up your money to buy a decent aftermarket prefit.
 
Some copper fouling is notm
I'd find another use for that barrel besides using it to shoot with.

Two days ago I used an old barrel by wrapping some sandpaper around it to hog out the bedding in the barrel channel of a stock.

Avoid the hassle and save up your money to buy a decent aftermarket prefit.

Ive got a tac 20 comin in a couple months roughly. I was just using for a temp. Just figured Id share because ive personally never seen a 204r tumble 32's. Ive had 3 other savages in 204r and they shot great.
 
That is strange indeed. I have almost the same issue shooting 110 Vmax out of my 308 while the heavies make perfect circles
 
......Almost like they threw some trash in there before they rifled it for good luck. Extreme pitting and gouges.......

All the factory barrels are made this way today!!!!!

Any chance you guys could direct me to an affordable bore scope that will do 17 cal and up?

"Affordable" and "borescope" should not be used together in the same sentence!!! Kinda like jumbo shrimp or military intelligence!!!!!
 
View attachment 1055324 Well this is a first for me. I picked up a new take off barrel from a savage. Grabbed a box of factory 32's and loaded some 32's as well as 40's.

Factory loads= shotgun pattern

Handloads= keyholing

Handload 40's = .6" and improving

Any suggestions?
What seating depth are u using ,i would just shoot the 40's, at about 220 yds the 40 are faster.hit harder less wind drift.
 
I had a .223 Savage 12FV that would keyhole at 25 yards. I had Sportsman's Warehouse send it back to Savage and they said it was fine. "Use 69 grain bullets in it instead of 55 grain". Is not 55 grain the standard weight for a .223? A 9 twist should have stabilized it. This was factory ammo.I did not like the answer so I sent it back to Savage a second time. Same answer. I sold the barrel and put on a pre chambered Shilen.
 
Let me see if I understand correctly, it's a "New takeoff barrel" .what could possibly be wrong? Everything, why did they take it off?
Can you take it back for a refund?
 
I am betting the chamber is a little off. You have 3 choices. Get a new barrel, deal with it, or firelap! "OH NO"!! As a side note I would love to hear that sideways bullet hit a Prairie Dog.
 

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