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20 practical

I read every I could on making brass, and got all the bushings and dies suggested.

Problem 1.
The Redding 204 decapping/expander insert (part #31203), does not fit in the Redding 223 bushing die. The diameter is smaller than the die body.

Problem 2- sizing down with a .248, .233 and .225 bushing I'm getting this flaired doughnut at the bottom of the neck.

I've read that this is a non-fireform cartridge, and some people even neck down in one pull which makes it way worse. Then It even flairs out the case mouth like a trumpet.

Is this normal or what should I change?

The furthest right case is a 223.
 

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Redding 14206 is what I use.

Try Dillon or imperial lube and screw die in further if it doesn't bump shoulders too far.
 
If you're having trouble, maybe try doing 1/2 the neck, turn case 180, and finish.

Check them for fit in your chamber before loading. If they fit, load them and they will iron out.

My chamber neck dia. is .235. I bring the case necks down to fit that with one bushing, then finish with a .226 bushing. I only do half the neck, but I'm doing 20-222, so I've got a much longer neck than you do.

I finish with a pass of a .2035" mandrill to get my final neck diameter. That happened to be the diameter of the Lee Decapper shaft in my Universal Decapping die.

Just be sure your brass isn't thick enough to clamp the bullet in the case when chambered. -- Do you know the neck dimension of your chamber?? Reamer Print? jd
 
One shot might work OK if you try the two pass method, just make sure it has dried well before you run them. It will damned sure work after you have the necks formed down. And when you use Imperial, keep it off the shoulders or you'll get dents. jd
 
The Redding 204 decapping/expander insert (part #31203),
That isn't the part # listed in this article. The one in the article worked fine for me.

The photo shows: A) the two different length .22 seater plugs for the Redding Competition Seater; B) the short 17 Mach IV Type-S decapping assembly used in the 20-221, 20 PPC and 20 BR; C) a .20-cal button; and D) two Hornady .20 cal V-Maxs. Parts List: Redding Part # 10715, decapping rod stem for bushing neck die (short) $4.00; Redding Part # 42203, .20 caliber size button $4.00; Redding Part # 55042, BR seat plug for .22 cal (long) $21.0
https://www.accurateshooter.com/guns-of-week/gunweek061/
 
I've read that this is a non-fireform cartridge, and some people even neck down in one pull which makes it way worse. Then It even flairs out the case mouth like a trumpet.

Is this normal or what should I change?
The flare can happen when you step down too much at once. My process is:
step 1, size in a 223 die and set my shoulder and the neck comes out at .243" with the expander removed
step 2, size in a Redding Comp bushing neck sizing die with a .235" bushing
step 3, size in a CH4D die that has the neck diameter I need for the brass I am sizing. I have 3 different FL 20P dies in total with different neck diameters for the brass I am using

But you can do the steps I do with a 223 bushing die with nearly the same results. Your shoulders (case head to datum) are all over the place. Are you using a neck sizing or FL sizing bushing die? You need to use a FL bushing die.
 
If you google how to make 20 Practical brass, you will get a couple days worth of reading, with lots of good info. There are numerous methods, and numerous disagreements on how to do it. ;)
 
And when you use Imperial, keep it off the shoulders or you'll get dents. jd
Ya know, I keep hearing this over and over, but I rub it all over the case and I have never had a dent. Also, my shoulder bump is very consistent so in my experience this is an "old wives tale" that keeps getting repeated with no basis in fact. Maybe if you gob it on, but not if you rub it on thin like intended.
As for forming 20 Practical, I usually do at least a couple hundred at a time and the alcohol/lanolin mix is by far the best way to go. Usually I step down to .233 and then about .226, but it can be done in one pass also. The one pass method I don't think makes as good as brass though. After the 1st firing it probably doesn't matter.
YMMV
 
I am no expert by any means ( just ask my wife or buddies!) but wasn’t to the whole design behind 20 practical over 20 tactical to just be able to run it through a sizing die, load her up and let’er rip? That’s all I do. 223 brass through a full length 20 Practical die. And load. I made up 100 new brass this summer for a Praire dog trip and they shot into the same group as the stuff that came with the rifle. I was Smacking dogs consistently out to 400. I use Hornady one shot either the spray or paste.
 
I am no expert by any means ( just ask my wife or buddies!) but wasn’t to the whole design behind 20 practical over 20 tactical to just be able to run it through a sizing die, load her up and let’er rip? That’s all I do. 223 brass through a full length 20 Practical die. And load. I made up 100 new brass this summer for a Praire dog trip and they shot into the same group as the stuff that came with the rifle. I was Smacking dogs consistently out to 400. I use Hornady one shot either the spray or paste.
Which 20 practical die are you using?
 
Slowwww steady pressure on the press handle. There is a huge amount of pressure in a die, way more than folks think. You are making a solid move as a liquid for the most part.
If one attacks the brass like cracking walnuts, it will reflect on end results.

A lot of folks skip the very first sizing step, run through a parent case FL size die, most of the time the decap/expander can be left out.

Chamfer inside and out of the case mouth. Any flaw, crack, nick etc can and will follow the same path.

If your using fired brass YMMV and be ready to accept some issues.

This is a fairly straightforward project. Do one step at a time and write it down, and make a note of it.

Want a project? I got PO’d about availability and price of 221 brass. I needed a pile for 20VT. I used 222. Rough basic size, rough trim, chamfer in side, run over mandrel, trim to minimum length, had to neck turn all 500+ of them, then run back into proper sizing bushing. Opps let’s not forget annealing.
I should seek professional medical help at times, lol.
 
Slowwww steady pressure on the press handle. There is a huge amount of pressure in a die, way more than folks think. You are making a solid move as a liquid for the most part.
If one attacks the brass like cracking walnuts, it will reflect on end results.

A lot of folks skip the very first sizing step, run through a parent case FL size die, most of the time the decap/expander can be left out.

Chamfer inside and out of the case mouth. Any flaw, crack, nick etc can and will follow the same path.

If your using fired brass YMMV and be ready to accept some issues.

This is a fairly straightforward project. Do one step at a time and write it down, and make a note of it.

Want a project? I got PO’d about availability and price of 221 brass. I needed a pile for 20VT. I used 222. Rough basic size, rough trim, chamfer in side, run over mandrel, trim to minimum length, had to neck turn all 500+ of them, then run back into proper sizing bushing. Opps let’s not forget annealing.
I should seek professional medical help at times, lol.
Good tips, thank you.
I had no issues making 22 grendel brass, and this is the same process... I know annealing would probably help a lot but I only have the double torch( by hand setup) currently.
 
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