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.20/223 AI

centershot said:
The more I think about it, a .223 AI firing 40 grain bullets would be about the same thing. Reloading dies would be a lot more reasonable! Ya, would still require fire forming.

Look into 20 practical too, you get the .204 caliber bullets and minimal cost for die setup

-Mac
 
Hey tooter, when you order the CH4D die be sure to spec the die neck diameter. I didn't know to do that & die came with a smallish neck diameter like a factory die, so necks get worked a bit too much. Other than that, it's a great die.
 
Smokin Joe ---- thanks. After trading emails with Dave over the weekend a message this morning indicated his standard FL sizer has a .224 neck dia. That's ok for me since I spec'd my reamer with a .228 neck. Yeh, I know, lots-a' case turning! Appreciate the heads-up! Even though I could likely get by using my Redding 223 AI neck bushing die, I'll also get CH4D make a dedicated one as well.

centershot ---- both CH4D, Whidden Gunworks and probably other sources can make dies from the reamer drawing. Providing cases though, in my opinion, is a better route.
 
To those of you who own one of these, what are the fouling issues compared to a .22? How often do do have to clean them if you were on a prairie dog hunt? About the same or more often?
 
I'm shooting factory Dakota barrels + Mullerworks & X-Caliber barrels on my hot 20's & have no unusual fouling issues. In the PD fields, I would expect these to go 100 rds between cleanings, maybe a little more. I use Danzac coated bullets which may help some.
 
Has anyone used 20 Practical brass for fire forming? I currently run a 20 Practical on a Savage action, the barrel is a 20" BHW and I have about 500 pcs of brass for it now and if I decided to try a 20-223AI barrel at some point I should be able to use all of my 20 Practical brass for fire forming/shooting, correct?

I already have 223AI dies and I like the thought of the 20-223AI for the extra stability of the brass with the 40 deg shoulder and slight increase in case capacity. I think my gunsmith has a 20-223AI reamer already. 8)
 
Generally, it is recommended to use new brass for fireforming to AI cartridges, but you could re-anneal a few & try them to see if it'll work. Be sure that the headspace works correctly; you need a healthy crush fit/feel when you close the bolt.
 
Re: CH4D

I ordered one custom die set from them. Nice enough people but I won't do business with them again. Initially quoted a 6 week turn-around time. At 12 weeks I called and was given a story and a promise it would be done soon. At 15 weeks I was given another story and another promise. On and on it continued. At 6 months I emailed them asking for either my money to be returned or ship my dies. Magically the dies appeared three days later. Because of all the delays and broken promises I wasn't able to use my new custom rifle for a prairie dog trip that my friends and I had been planning for almost a year. Yes, I was disappointed.
 
IA Shooter

Will you rechamber your 20 Practical to 20/223 AI or start with new barrel. I have same problem as you,also have Redding type s 223 AI bushing die. I use it for 6 x 222 magnum AI now. My smith doesn't have the 20 223 ai reamer though.

Thanks
 
redrockranger said:
IA Shooter

Will you rechamber your 20 Practical to 20/223 AI or start with new barrel. I have same problem as you,also have Redding type s 223 AI bushing die. I use it for 6 x 222 magnum AI now. My smith doesn't have the 20 223 ai reamer though.

Thanks

Not sure if I would start with a new barrel or have my 20 Practical reamed. This is something I'll be getting more serious about after the 1st of the year and will look into my options.
 
For high volume shooting L.C. 09 brass is does extremely well. I've shot some really good 100 yd groups. Check Saubier website for these small caliber cartridges. Seen really satisfied shooters using Green Mountain barrel blanks,tho most are are straight tubes.
 
IA_shooter said:
Has anyone used 20 Practical brass for fire forming? I currently run a 20 Practical on a Savage action, the barrel is a 20" BHW and I have about 500 pcs of brass for it now and if I decided to try a 20-223AI barrel at some point I should be able to use all of my 20 Practical brass for fire forming/shooting, correct?

I already have 223AI dies and I like the thought of the 20-223AI for the extra stability of the brass with the 40 deg shoulder and slight increase in case capacity. I think my gunsmith has a 20-223AI reamer already. 8)

Just my opinion, OK. But I do have barrels in both chambers and so I do have some experience. IMO-you will see little, if any difference in velocity or accuracy between the two. Any differences will be because of the barrel and the 20 Prac may well be faster and/or more accurate. If you choose to use the 20 Prac brass in the new chamber, it won't do as well as just forming new brass. If you don't anneal every piece, you may well lose brass to splitting or cracking. If you don't shoot that brass a helluvalot, you won't shoot it enough to take advantage of the 40º shoulder. What I'm saying is it's probably a waste of time and $$ to make the change using either or the same barrel or brass. If you really want a 20-223ai you should get a new barrel and new brass. Even at that you will see little difference. Not trying to be a downer, but I wish someone had told me some of these things before I did what I had on my mind at the time.

Rick
 
Greyfox said:
IA_shooter said:
Has anyone used 20 Practical brass for fire forming? I currently run a 20 Practical on a Savage action, the barrel is a 20" BHW and I have about 500 pcs of brass for it now and if I decided to try a 20-223AI barrel at some point I should be able to use all of my 20 Practical brass for fire forming/shooting, correct?

I already have 223AI dies and I like the thought of the 20-223AI for the extra stability of the brass with the 40 deg shoulder and slight increase in case capacity. I think my gunsmith has a 20-223AI reamer already. 8)

Just my opinion, OK. But I do have barrels in both chambers and so I do have some experience. IMO-you will see little, if any difference in velocity or accuracy between the two. Any differences will be because of the barrel and the 20 Prac may well be faster and/or more accurate. If you choose to use the 20 Prac brass in the new chamber, it won't do as well as just forming new brass. If you don't anneal every piece, you may well lose brass to splitting or cracking. If you don't shoot that brass a helluvalot, you won't shoot it enough to take advantage of the 40º shoulder. What I'm saying is it's probably a waste of time and $$ to make the change using either or the same barrel or brass. If you really want a 20-223ai you should get a new barrel and new brass. Even at that you will see little difference. Not trying to be a downer, but I wish someone had told me some of these things before I did what I had on my mind at the time.

Rick

I may just re-barrel to 204 next year and skip the wildcat route all together.
 
Having done the dance and seeing others, my comment is that you will not surpass a standard 204 to make a pinch of coon shit difference. having said all this I am building a 20ppc. just because.
 
Some of us, me included, only build rifles that Lapua makes brass for. It has been my rule for many years now.
 
Redding part # 77907 bushing die with the 40 Degree shoulder. Then use the bushing you want for neck diameter. That is what I use to size cases, after firing.
For seating I use one of my 20 Tac seating dies, adjusted for the 20-223 Imp 40 degree.
 
Anyone out there done this? I know, it's called a .204 Ruger. If you were to go on a prairie dog hunt, think of the savings and availability of brass.

Here is an entire thread on my version which I call the 20 Sploder. It's very popular. And Keith Olson has tested it very extensively. Here is the thread

 

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