17 Remington Build

[willyp19]

I am getting ready to re-barrel my 223 to a 17 REM, and would like to any recommendations as far as Twist Rate and Barrel length.

Current configuration is REM 700 with a 26" Varmint contour barrel. Would like to shoot 25gr bullets.]

Thanks in advance.

 

[rickiesrevenge]

I'd get a 9 twist just so you could shoot any 17 made except for the old 37's.

Aaron

 

[JSH]

Zero freebore.

 

[jcm24m]

9” twist and nothing else

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

My coyote hunting rig is a Rem sporter contour 26" Lilja 1/9. I contacted Manson reamer for a custom. After sending in a dummy round(29 gr WCD bullet) and brass, Dave suggested a throat/freebore setup. The rig is very accurate and gives higher velocities than load data/powder charge. This rifle is strictly a fur harvest tool and not a colony use rifle. It cleans very easy and doesn't need fouling shots.

 

[B23]

I don't know what your brass situation is but unless you've already sourced a supply of 17 Rem brass maybe give some thought to a 17-223. 17 Rem brass isn't always the easiest stuff to get and brass quality would definitely favor the 223.

 

[willyp19]

Yep, I planned ahead, and found 500 pieces of Norma brass.

 

[AlNyhus]

willy19: I've had quite a few .17 Remingtons done when I was hunting fox hard. Lilja makes what I consider to be the best barrels for the .17's. Others that I had good luck with were Shilen and PacNor. If I was to do one today, I'd opt a Lilja twisted 1:9 and never look back.

The .17 Rems do have a few areas to get right to make them the best they can be. The chamber neck diameter shouldn't be over .004 larger than the what the neck of a loaded round measures. Make sure and check what a case neck measures with a seated bullet and compare that to the reamer your 'smith is going to use. For free bore, a zero (0.000") free bore is what you're looking for in a reamer. On the subject of reamers, the reamer your 'smith is going to use should be the type that has a removeable pilot so the correct pilot can be fitted to the dimensions of the barrel lands...there is no place for a solid pilot reamer when your dealing with the .17's. Make sure your 'smith knows and can answer all of these questions.

Another thing to do is to have the bolt face bushed and the hole dimensioned correctly. These .17's like to flow the primer cups into the area around the firing pin tip if the clearance is too big. Pressure is your friend with the big cased .17's and this is an area to get addressed when the barrel is getting fitted and chambered, not after you have issues.

Done this way, all of mine were well behaved and incredibly accurate. WW760 and AA2700 were both the best for powders...the AA2700 shows markedly less carbon fouling than the traditional 'IMR4320 - style' powders...which is a big plus.

Hope this helps...sounds like a fun project! -Al

 

[Big Mc]

I am getting ready to re-barrel my 223 to a 17 REM, and would like to any recommendations as far as Twist Rate and Barrel length.

Current configuration is REM 700 with a 26" Varmint contour barrel. Would like to shoot 25gr bullets.]

Thanks in advance.

I turned my 17 Rem into a 17-223. 1x9 will shoot up to 30 grs. Its a shame Berger stoped making them awile back. Only have 400 left. Just my two cents Tommy Mc

 

[SSL]

willy19: I've had quite a few .17 Remingtons done when I was hunting fox hard. Lilja makes what I consider to be the best barrels for the .17's. Others that I had good luck with were Shilen and PacNor. If I was to do one today, I'd opt a Lilja twisted 1:9 and never look back.

The .17 Rems do have a few areas to get right to make them the best they can be. The chamber neck diameter shouldn't be over .004 larger than the what the neck of a loaded round measures. Make sure and check what a case neck measures with a seated bullet and compare that to the reamer your 'smith is going to use. For free bore, a zero (0.000") free bore is what you're looking for in a reamer. On the subject of reamers, the reamer your 'smith is going to use should be the type that has a removeable pilot so the correct pilot can be fitted to the dimensions of the barrel lands...there is no place for a solid pilot reamer when your dealing with the .17's. Make sure your 'smith knows and can answer all of these questions.

Another thing to do is to have the bolt face bushed and the hole dimensioned correctly. These .17's like to flow the primer cups into the area around the firing pin tip if the clearance is too big. Pressure is your friend with the big cased .17's and this is an area to get addressed when the barrel is getting fitted and chambered, not after you have issues.

Done this way, all of mine were well behaved and incredibly accurate. WW760 and AA2700 were both the best for powders...the AA2700 shows markedly less carbon fouling than the traditional 'IMR4320 - style' powders...which is a big plus.

Hope this helps...sounds like a fun project! -Al

I agree wholeheartedly with the W760/AA2700 recommendation (along with H414, are reputed to be the same powder), though for the last several years I've switched entirely to CFE223. Any of these will make your .17 sing.

 

[JSH]

I went with. Shilen Select 1-9”. It was worth the extra few dollars. It cleans so easy.
My dilemma, if you can call it that, I am seeing crazy speeds with the CFE223 with good accuracy. Knocking on the door of 4400 FPS out of this barrel. That was with a load ramp I had put together. My start load showed way over what the book did.
I got a pound of AA2700. I am wanting around 4000 with a fairly full case.
Have not heard any howling since 4320 is no more.

 

[platapus]

I built a AR in 17-223 Improved 1-9 Lija 24", 30gr Chan Nagel at 4000 fps. 1/2 moa at 300. Benchmark powder and LC Brass.

17 Rem brass isn't as readily available as 223/5.56.

Has been great on Coyotes