YUP,.. THIS ^^^^
I've had good Luck ( Sub 1/2 MOA ) with, 130 ELD-M's at, a whopping,.. .105 "off"
and 143 gr X's at, .085 "off"
DISREGARD my Posts as, I DON'T shoot much,.. Factory ammo ( Sorry ).
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140gr ELD-M Jump in SAMMI Chamber?
- Thread starter FourT6and2
- Start date
I've had good Luck ( Sub 1/2 MOA ) with, 130 ELD-M's at, a whopping,.. .105 "off"
and 143 gr X's at, .085 "off"
DISREGARD my Posts as, I DON'T shoot much,.. Factory ammo ( Sorry ).
I'm not asking for recommendations about how far to jump my bullets. I'm just trying to determine how far a Hornady 140gr. ELD-M will jump in a SAAMI chamber with 0.199" free bore. That's LITERALLY all I'm asking. It's not about how much jump the bullet likes or how much jump I should aim for, etc.
Hornady 6.5 Creemoor, 140gr ELD-M factory ammo
SAAMI chamber, 0.199" freebore
What is the jump?
Hornady 6.5 Creemoor, 140gr ELD-M factory ammo
SAAMI chamber, 0.199" freebore
What is the jump?
Sounds like Hornady gave you an answer. You either don't believe that answer or don't like it. You can measure that yourself actually. Load a dummy round long, remove the ejector, spring and firing pin from your bolt. Load the dummy round and close the bolt. Once the bolt closes effortlessly, you'll have your measurement. Think it's called the Wheeler method. Cartridge base to ogive on the dummy round minus cartridge base to ogive on factory round is your factory freebore of that saami chamber. It's the only method I use to determine this measurement now. None of mine are saami but it's the same method of measurement.
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AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
Often, a barrel may love the 140g Sierra BTSP vs the X or M due to bullet design....keep an open mind.
Edd
Gold $$ Contributor
I have a way to measure this but I don't have a bullet. Send me a bullet and I will measure it for you.
I would expect it to be real close to what Hornady said, they should know.
Didn't like our answers at the Hide? LOL
I understand curiosity but other than that, there must be a reason for wanting that measurement. Chasing the lands will eventually happen from throat erosion. That measurement has probably already changed. With Hornady low drags, I never worry about how much jump. They really love to jump. Same with the throat length on my Weatherby rifles. Seems like all my bullets jump a long ways into the lands unless I custom load for the chamber but most times doesn't change the accuracy a whole lot. I guess measuring the distance of freebore is the best real way to know.
No, I've got my answer now. But my point was people are replying with comments about how far they like their jump or telling me to measure the jump in my rifle, when those have nothing to do with my question lol. My rifle has nothing to do with the question. My chamber isn't SAAMI and it has 3,000+ rounds on it so measuring my jump won't tell me anything about a SAAMI chamber.
I asked the same question on a few different forums.
There is. But it's not what people are assuming.
Not if I don't hand load.
Yup, that's what I'm getting at. Anyway... Hornady told me what the jump should be. But the guy on the phone didn't sound that confidant and wanted to just end the convo lol. He said jump with their ammo in SAAMI chamber with 0.199" FB should be 0.098". But that doesn't seem to correspond with what other people are saying they're getting IRL.
Anyway, I guess it's fruitless exercise at this point because I have an answer from my rifle smith which is... he uses the same reamer for every barrel so it doesn't matter lol.
Explaination:
I was attempting to work backwards and determine what freebore my rifle originally had when new. I know my jump at 600 rounds using factory ammo. I know the jump at 1,000 rounds. And I know the jump today. The amount of erosion is fairly consistent per shot. So I can estimate the jump when new. And then I can compare that to a SAAMI chamber and determine if my rifle had 0.199" FB, 0.169", 0.150" etc.
I don't hand load. I only shoot factory ammo. Therefore... knowing what freebore I originally had is important when I have a new barrel chambered. I can't chase the lands. So if the chamber is cut with a slightly shorter FB, I'll get more life out of it as the throat erodes.
This barrel shot so damn good. I want to basically clone it and get a new one chambered the exact same way. But my smith says he uses the same reamer spec for every barrel, so it doesn't matter at this point lol.
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Just messing with you.
Oh I understand.
I guess I didn't realize you were not a handloader or missed that in your first post. I think you'll be surprised how well those bullets shoot even as the throat lengthens.There is. But it's not what people are assuming.
Not if I don't hand load.
Yup, that's what I'm getting at. Anyway... Hornady told me what the jump should be. But the guy on the phone didn't sound that confidant and wanted to just end the convo lol. He said jump with their ammo in SAAMI chamber with 0.199" FB should be 0.098". But that doesn't seem to correspond with what other people are saying they're getting IRL.
Anyway, I guess it's fruitless exercise at this point because I have an answer from my rifle smith which is... he uses the same reamer for every barrel so it doesn't matter lol.
Explaination:
I was attempting to work backwards and determine what freebore my rifle originally had when new. I know my jump at 600 rounds using factory ammo. I know the jump at 1,000 rounds. And I know the jump today. The amount of erosion is fairly consistent per shot. So I can estimate the jump when new. And then I can compare that to a SAAMI chamber and determine if my rifle had 0.199" FB, 0.169", 0.150" etc.
I don't hand load. I only shoot factory ammo. Therefore... knowing what freebore I originally had is important when I have a new barrel chambered. I can't chase the lands. So if the chamber is cut with a slightly shorter FB, I'll get more life out of it as the throat erodes.
This barrel shot so damn good. I want to basically clone it and get a new one chambered the exact same way. But my smith says he uses the same reamer spec for every barrel, so it doesn't matter at this point lol.
Yeah, I don't hand load. I know you can get better results that way. Not just in bullet jump, but more consistent velocities. I just don't have the time, energy, or space for it.
Anyway, everybody's idea of acceptable accuracy is different. When new, this barrel shot 0.10 – 0.18 MOA with factory ammo. I don't think I can get much better than that with hand loads. And now, after 3,000+ rounds, groups have opened up to 0.30 – 0.50 MOA. Many would be happy with 0.3 on a fresh barrel. Whereas I'm ready for a new one.
Seeing as all you shoot is factory you might want to think about a tuner. I use aKinetic Security Solutions ATS tuner that screws on the muzzle threads and you can put whatever brake or can you want over it. This way if you get a lot of ammo that’s not as good as another you can do a tuning and get it shooting better.
Pic of one of the original ATS but the newer ones have a slope to the design. Also a pic of a 5 shot group after tuning using a 6th bullet hole as the aiming point. Shot it on steel at 930 yards and spotter said shots were almost touching. I even tuned a lot that shot around 3/4 now down to just under half moa. Worth a look for a factory ammo guy.
I've heard of tuners but never really gave them much thought. Very cool, thanks!
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You should. I shoot mostly factory in my 6.5 Creed and I was happy I got it.
Looks like a fun toy, I'll pick one up
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