You must not know Dave Tooley?I feel there's an error with this statement.
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You must not know Dave Tooley?I feel there's an error with this statement.
I think my confusion is I'm thinking of the cartridge HS and you are (maybe) referring to the action HS, (lugs to action face+ lug). Check my work?Making the tenon 0.010" shorter than the HS does several things. One- the HS gage protrudes from the tenon allowing one measurement with a depth mic to measure HS. Second- It makes machining the counterbore much easier. As I said , touch, set travel indicator, using the number for the bolt fact to the nose, cut the CB. I open the diameter up some and take one measurement in the whole operation of machining the CB.

I don't, and I'm new here but I've learned he's very knowledgeable and helpful...You must not know Dave Tooley?
ExactlyI am not concerned in the least about the clearance between the bolt lugs and the tenon just as long as they don't touch. You can remove the CB and it would function just fine.
Going by your numbersI think my confusion is I'm thinking of the cartridge HS and you are (maybe) referring to the action HS, (lugs to action face+ lug). Check my work?
View attachment 1736960
I don't, and I'm new here but I've learned he's very knowledgeable and helpful...
unlike your comment.
I wasn't meaning to call him out or wrong, I'm trying to understand. I may have not articulated that well
.716 lug depth + .250 lug = .966 - .010 (clearance)= .956Going by your numbers
HS is .956"
Bolt nose depth .145"
I would make the tenon .946" gage would protrude 0.010"
To cut the barrel CB touch and go .145" deep X .725" diameter
And those numbers don't have to be exact. +/- 0.002" works just fine
Make the tread fit on the loose side so the shoulders square up
Ream chamber to depth .956". I have never had to allow anything for crush.
A light polish and you're done
I still work similarly. Manual with no DRO. Hitting numbers is not a big dealI don't see why those numbers would work. When I did things on a manual machine I developed this process which eliminates some of the mental math.
HS minus 0.010" = tenon length I like the HS gage extending beyond the tenon if using a depth mic.
Counterbore depth equaled the distance from the bolt face to the end of the bolt nose. With the tenon being 0.010" short all I had to do is touch the barrel with my boring bar, set the travel indicator to the my bolt face depth number and go to zero. That automatically gave 0.010" end clearance. In my barrel log books there are only 4 numbers; HS, tenon length, CB depth and thread specs if not standard.
.716 lug depth + .250 lug = .966 - .010 (clearance)= .956
but based on the rest of my math that leaves the gauge only .001 out, which is a bit tough to measure.
If I knock it back another 10 thou, to 946 that would leave the gauge .010" out then only cut the recess .144
Or maybe I missed something?
Or make it flat faced at .802 the the gauge sticks out .155?
The lug depth means nothing. I have never seen the lugs extend beyond the bolt face..716 lug depth + .250 lug = .966 - .010 (clearance)= .956
but based on the rest of my math that leaves the gauge only .001 out, which is a bit tough to measure.
If I knock it back another 10 thou, to 946 that would leave the gauge .010" out then only cut the recess .144
Or maybe I missed something?
Or make it flat faced at .802 the the gauge sticks out .155?
Measure to the shoulder not to the end of the tenon when the gage is proud of the end of tenon. You gain stability with the side of the spindle resting on/next to the threads. That or build yourself a headspace measuring gizzie. There are many threads devoted to the various styles.but based on the rest of my math that leaves the gauge only .001 out, which is a bit tough to measure.
OK got it now.The lug depth means nothing. I have never seen the lugs extend beyond the bolt face.
Don't delete the CB
.250( recoil lug)+ .707 ( action face to bolt face) = HS .957" I used your number of .956" before as the HS number. That's the trouble with too many meaningless numbers.
tenon length would be .947"
CB depth would be .145"
Turn your tenon diameter 0.010" under. That leaves a small flat on top of the tread that you can use as a visual indicator to know when to measure/check the thread fit.
This is the reason why i give a little extra tolerance in those areasand the bolt nose can be touching.action-recoil lug faces will lock up square
.
Ya I’m not sure why I was stuck on the distance to the lugs. I’ve got it figured out now.Dave's math works. When I got started I looked up all of these worksheets and tried to use them. They're too complicated. It's basic machine work and is only a couple of measurements to hit, that frankly aren't that critical, considering we commonly talk in tenths.
Don't overcomplicate it.
Think through how everything works together. Eventually it'll "click" and you'll never fill out a worksheet again, and just get to work.
A plus for some sort of worksheet is you now have the dimensions for that action and will never have to measure it for a barrel ever again.Ya I’m not sure why I was stuck on the distance to the lugs. I’ve got it figured out now.
Right now I like the idea of the work sheet just so a guy doesn’t make a stupid mistake but maybe that will change as I gain experience.
That's a super good point. I did see some of those excel files which would make it easy to save on a computer for future reference. I'm getting a bit ahead of my self there I think, walk before I run.A plus for some sort of worksheet is you now have the dimensions for that action and will never have to measure it for a barrel ever again.
If you buy or make tools like these you can document the barrel or muzzle tenon and you can index and or engrave a barrel without the action or muzzle device in hand. I've bugged him for an 18TPI and a .010" over 16TPI but he hasn't got around to it.
Products - Gunsmithing Tools - Piercision Rifles
www.piercisionrifles.com
No worries! We're here to learn. Thanks for participating!That's a super good point. I did see some of those excel files which would make it easy to save on a computer for future reference. I'm getting a bit ahead of my self there I think, walk before I run.
That Timing tool wouldn't be hard to make your own, I'd have to hand stamp it so wouldn't be as nice but functional none the less.
apologies to @tonyben for completely hi-jacking the thread.

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