All I've done so far is square the face of the receiver.Just and off the wall question, has the bore of this action been trued/ reamed? If so, how?


Yes, that's an option. My specialty is a different platform and the 700 is new to me, so I'm running all my findings by this group to see what issues are common and what's not; and what's the common fix and what's not. I'm trying to find out the generally accepted practices on this platform.Why wouldn't you grind ~.015" off of it?
All I've done so far is square the face of the receiver.
The barrel should be back from black oxide tomorrow. I also bought a 1/4” thick PTG ground lug and was able to throw it in with the batch to have it black oxide as well.
In the meantime, I jigged up the action and got it aligned. The face only had 0.001” runout and I gave it a skim pass. I ran my dial indicator over the threads and there’s about 0.008” of runout in the receiver threads. I rotated the receiver 90 degrees and ran my indicator over the threads to get a reading, rotated another 90 degrees, etc…
I haven’t checked the bolt lugs yet. I need to...


When you swapped pins, did you swap the whole assembly (pin, shroud, cocking piece) or just the pin itself? If you swapped the assembly, have you tried just the shroud? The slot in the shroud for the cocking piece has much less clearance than the cocking piece does to the receiver slot. I would be interested to hear if the shroud is the issue, though it also looks like there is a burr on the side of the slot at the edge of the screw hole, taking a file to the area to clean it up wouldn't hurt.**Edit** I took the firing pin from another action and put it in this one and the binding is gone. Upon further observation, it seems the firing pin channel at the tang might be milled just slightly off center. If you look at the action screw, the hole isn't centered on the firing pin tail channel.
I swapped the whole assembly. I don't have the tool to disassemble the assembly yet.When you swapped pins, did you swap the whole assembly (pin, shroud, cocking piece) or just the pin itself? If you swapped the assembly, have you tried just the shroud? The slot in the shroud for the cocking piece has much less clearance than the cocking piece does to the receiver slot. I would be interested to hear if the shroud is the issue, though it also looks like there is a burr on the side of the slot at the edge of the screw hole, taking a file to the area to clean it up wouldn't hurt.
On that line of thinking: With his .070”+ of protrusion he’s effectively lost .015-.020” of available pin fall. But you are exactly correct in that there’s a lot of trees to take care of in this forestFiring pin travel means more than protrusion. Look at the whole forest not just a couple of trees.
Trying to understand these dimensions, from what reference point? Is this not .195" of fall? If you put a dial on it cocked zero'd what is the fall from that point? In my thoughts I like it to let off to the trigger but that requires to set it up with no cock on close.Here are my measurements for pin fall with the trigger installed:
Bolt closed and cocked: 0.040"
Fired: 0.235"
Total fall: 0.275"
The cocking piece sticks out 0.040" past the bolt plug before firing.Trying to understand these dimensions, from what reference point? Is this not .195" of fall? If you put a dial on it cocked zero'd what is the fall from that point? In my thoughts I like it to let off to the trigger but that requires to set it up with no cock on close.
What is the cock-on-close dimension?Here are my measurements for pin fall with the trigger installed:
Bolt closed and cocked: 0.040"
Fired: 0.235"
Total fall: 0.275"
