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AR Platforms and Brass

The problem with premium brass in an AR is often I don't see premium reloading standards being followed or the gun being tuned properly. Know your shoulder bump measurement. Do not arbitrarily over size your brass because "its an AR."

An adjustable gas block so it doesn't throw your brass two benches down. Get some adhesive back velcro, take the fuzzy side and stick it to the brass deflector ramp to reduce dented necks. Use a brass catcher.
 
I own about 6 of these ...
Thank Me later !
I don't let my 22 Creed brass get abused
 

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I have been building and shooting A/R's since the 70's. for the past 20 years, I've been mostly interested in long (24" to 26") heavy-barreled varmint rigs, though my caliber choices may differ from yours. I shoot .223 Wylde chambers, .20 Practical, 6.5 Grendel. Over the years, I've worn out thousands of pieces at a time of Winchester, Federal, Nosler, Remington, Lapua, as well as Lake City and Twin City mil brass - most of that in the .223's and .20P. Provided I have the rifle properly "springed" (I don't use adjustable gas blocks), and I'm not running the loads hot, I have learned to expect 5 to 9 firings on my brass, mostly depending on the make of brass and the weight of the bullet and the charge I'm shooting. I toss any brass shot 9 times, regardless. I get the fewest loadings from the commercial brass as a rule and/or when shooting heavy bullets. Optimum life is attained with bullets weighing 50 grains or less as opposed to 69 grains or more, for example. The military brass (regardless of the arsenal) seems to last as long or longer than the good commercial brass. I do a lot of brass prep on all my brass, including a light turn on the necks. My aim is to get 8 firings on my brass and a lot of that is predicated on my load. If I were competing, my aim might be more like 4 firings - and I'd not go that far unless I was annealing. A split neck on the 4th firing is a possibility without annealing and that will throw your score. That is a plus for the lapua brass, as it will go longer without splitting, as a rule.

I've gotten decent case longevity from Lapua, Winchester and Nosler. The Remington and Federal are softer, though can still easily hang in there 6 firings if not loaded hot. The key to best brass life in an A/R is tuning the rifle to not bash your brass on ejection and (ideally) annealing it at least every two firings. I also make sure I have turned my sizing die expander ball to be only a snug fit in the neck when sizing - not oversized as they come. If this is not done, neck splits will often be encountered a lot more frequently after 5 or 6 firings and the load will shoot noticeably different on firing #3 or 4, as opposed to firing #1, for example due to neck tension change (spring back) if there is no annealing. It is more noticeable on the Mil brass, which seems to be a bit more "brittle" than the commercial brass, regardless of make, though I've had some hard Winchester brass too.

I use brass catchers on everything so my brass doesn't get stepped on, etc. I only bump my shoulders .002". Keeping a relatively uniform shoulder bump minimized to .002" pretty much requires annealing. If not annealing, maybe bump a bit more, as you will have more spring back after a day or two and you will be closer to the shoulder than you realize. The more you bump back, the more your accuracy will degrade and the more your brass will stretch on firing and require trimming, wear out sooner, etc. Once up to about 6 or 7 firings on any A/R brass, it is a good idea to begin monitoring for the formation of the ring inside the base of the brass where case separation begins, if that has not already been done. Target rifles where shoulders are barely bumped can go many firings with little concern over this, though factory full-length sizing dies and bumping shoulders speed the brass stretch above the web. Just makes sense to watch these things.
 
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Just as another reference on the 'hot' category. My .223 is a bolt gun. Mostly 69 and 77 gn loads, not at max, but, not slow either.

I could only get 4 or 5 reloads from most brass, LC, Win, Fed, Hornady due to primer pockets opening up. I got tired of throwing brass away and bought Lapua. The first batch went over 30 reloads, never annealed, no cracked necks, no case head separation. The few I rejected were those that performed differently than others (consistent high or low vel). I finally bought another batch just cause I was starting with a new barrel.

Result is I'd follow the advice above and not push hard on heavy bullets.
 
Thanks boys I appreciate the information. I’ll go through and respond individually soon. This crowd info is pretty much lining up with what I’m reading in Glend Zediker’s Top Grade Ammo, to simplify my life I’m choosing to line up with his loading approach
 
I solved the AR brass problem by going back to factory ammo lol. Too much work to be flinging my brass into the rocks or ughhh a piece bounces off the brass catcher back into the action and gets crushed.
 
Thanks boys I appreciate the information. I’ll go through and respond individually soon. This crowd info is pretty much lining up with what I’m reading in Glend Zediker’s Top Grade Ammo, to simplify my life I’m choosing to line up with his loading approach
Glen's books are worth the read.
 
I run good brass, good dies, and load my 223 like it was a bench gun. over kill I know, but good practice for the bolt gun. Tired of chasing brass,?? this gadget works great.
I've been using them for the past year.

They do help reduce the distance the brass is thrown.
If you also trim a 1 to 1 1/2 coils off the ejector spring, the brass will land even closer.
Pro tip: If you do want to try trimming the ejector spring, buy some extras first.
 
yes, i trim coils also to get the brass to go to the side and rear, about 4 o'clock, and when i put the deflectors on they drop straight down. on that stubborn rifle where they go forward and nothing works, i changed the extractor and that did the trick.
 
If your AR is in tune, with the right loads, I have found I can keep my brass thrown into one place and is a lot easier to find. Not saying deflectors are a bad idea, just that having you AR set up right helps a great deal in locating you're brass when it's close by in a nice little pile. Also if you don't hold your rifle exactly the same each time with the same about of pressure, your brass can go all over the place also.
 
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If your AR is in tune, with the right loads, I have found I can keep my brass thrown into one place and is a lot easier to find. Not saying deflectors are a bad idea, just that having you AR set up right helps a great deal in locating you're brass when it's close by in a nice little pile.
It definitely helps, I always observe if a semi automatic is randomly scattering or makes a nice consistent pile.
 
If your AR is in tune, with the right loads, I have found I can keep my brass thrown into one place and is a lot easier to find. Not saying deflectors are a bad idea, just that having you AR set up right helps a great deal in locating you're brass when it's close by in a nice little pile. Also if you don't hold your rifle exactly the same each time with the same about of pressure, your brass can go all over the place also.
tune, and a consistent position. that flyer on target will be the one brass thats out of the pile.
 
Probably the biggest issue with brass life in AR's is the headspace. You should ensure that you only push the shoulder back 0.002" to 0.003" when resizing. Excessive headspace risks a head separation. An appropriate set of Redding shellholders [0.000" to 0.010"] is the easiest answer.
I have a couple of Grendels the barrels from reputable manufacturers, which came with excessive headspace. I had to go to a type 1 bolt in order to bring them into spec.
I was under the impression that ARs required more sizing like .004 and that .001/.002 was more for bolt actions. Do you recommend .002/.003 even for 556/762? Or is this in reference to when i load my 6mm ARC AR?
 
I also like Lake City for my 5.56 and .308. But that doesn't work in an ARC. I run a large frame AR in 260 Remington, and cringe when I lose brass. Maybe a brass catcher and Starline, I am hearing it is excellent and cheaper than Lapua.
i got a pretty big bag of starline 5.56, ill give that a shot!
 
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1st ? Are you using any kind of brass catcher I would hate to know I was spraying anything other than LC brass all over the firing line.I’m not a AR guy but I’ve seen firing lines covered with brass on the ground
yes, I bought a high end brass catcher that works wonders as well as a soft brass deflector
 
I competed in Highpower for a long time, 20+ years, with most of that time behind an AR. In .223 I really do not think brand of brass matters. Winchester, Remington, Hornady, LC, IMI, Lapua.......It doesn't matter. I shot Lapua instead of my usual Winchester brass and there was zero difference on target. No statistical difference in X-count or total score. In Highpower all that matters is reliability and results on target. I learned there were things that just do not matter loading an AR for Highpower. Winchester brass primed with a Rem 7 1/2 charged with 24.0 of RL15 and stuffed with a Sierra 77 for short line or Sierra 80 for 600 worked. Same load with any other brass worked the same. Lapua brass and BR4 primer didn't work any better..... on target. Scores are all that count. Most everything else except the jerk pulling the trigger really doesn't matter.
thanks for sharing your experience, what length do you load the 80gr to?
 

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