Best reloading practice. What is most important

[Darkside]

Consistency.

This ^^^^^^

Once you figure out what YOU like.
Write down YOUR process of madness and stick to it. Consistency everytime.

 

[big5ifty]

What are you reloading for. The answer will differ based on what you want to achieve.

 

[R.Morehouse]

For accuracy with a 6ppc, 6 Dasher, and 338 Lapua imp. I have found that my brass overall length is very important. I also have found that leaving carbon in the necks is as well. I DO run a nylon brush straight in and out the same amount of times on each one.....Having a little OCD when it comes to this stuff helps a lot.....

Regards
Rick

 

[AlNyhus]

The first thing I do is use a chamber length gauge to  know exactly how long the chamber is. If the brass needs to be necked up/down, that's next. If the cases need to be neck turned, case lengths are then equalized. Then cases are full length sized in a non-bushing die.

After that, I uniform the primer pockets with a fixed depth uniformer and uniform the flash holes (no matter what the brand the brass is). Don't be surprised at what you find. That's why you do these two steps.

Next is neck turning, if needed. Then a light stress relief (if they were necked up/down) followed by a good cleaning inside and out in acetone.

Finally, f.l. size again with the appropriate die prior to being fired the first time.

That my method, fwiw. -Al

 

[Pawnee Bill]

With all the internets loading advice. What is the most important step and what order. Let start with virgin aftermarket brass first. I'll start another thread for once fired if need be. There are vids from top shooters and smiths on youtube that alot of us try to follow. Some great reads here as well. But I see where one shooter will not use steps other do or just in different orders. What's your holy grail of steps and sequence?

Every step is important for safety and accuracy.

 

[jelenko]

While safety is the most important aspect for any reloading, the rest depends on what you're using the reloads for.
For example, if you're using the reloads for run and gun at 25-50 yards, you'll be better off doing minimal load development and spending your time practicing. Similar to 'cross the course' - although you do need a load for two of the stages that is ~ 3/4 MOA.

 

[Straightshooter1]

With all the internets loading advice. What is the most important step and what order. Let start with virgin aftermarket brass first. I'll start another thread for once fired if need be. There are vids from top shooters and smiths on youtube that alot of us try to follow. Some great reads here as well. But I see where one shooter will not use steps other do or just in different orders. What's your holy grail of steps and sequence?

My thinking about the things that I can control is pretty much in line with what this graph depicts:

 

[Leo_B]

Confession, I didn't read all word for word. I'll still play.
Concentration and focus. Reading the load recipe from the manual every time, no matter how many hundred times you've cooked the same recipe. Making sure the ONLY things at hand are the proper ingredients for the intended recipe. Working from a clean and orderly work area and cleaning and putting it back that way when finished.
Passing to my right now.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

While loading processes are important, tune far out ways it. You can win matches with the most basic loading process if you nail the tune

 

[David Conder]

Alex is so correct

 

[wywindsor]

I suspect nailing the tune is the correct powder and charge, bullet, seating depth, primer and depth/crush. Possibly neck tension. Per gun. This seems simple to a point. No disrespect to anyone here, but there is alot of wisdom here and still out there. Tuning a gun is one thing. Tuning a load is another. Alex is a perfectionists on guns. Surely on load development of his own and feedback from shooters of his guns. So my thread here may be titled wrong.

Should it be. What is your starting process and how do you tune a load per your accuracy requirements?

I respect all post for the attention to detail and order. This is always up front and foremost.

Keep the post coming. In time I would like to organize the most important details in the best order.

Thanks Ray

 

[DLT]

Putting the Primer in the case before adding the powder.

God I pull that move too regularly

 

[linebaugh]

Let me save you a lot of time. Buy lapua brass. Additionally buy lapua brass in a proven accurate round. If I was concerend with the utmost accuracy I would not choose a 30-06 with Reminton brass for instance.
If you have a gun that will shoot accurately and you are not competing, getting excellent accuracy is not that difficult.

Seating depth is probably most important for wringing out accuracy in the big picture IMO.
Powder choice can be second for me. Many times I will have to change powder to get the accuracy I want. Not just charge weights, different powder completely.
Occassionally I will need to change bullet choice.
Neck tension probably next in line.
Primers probably last for me.

Many of the cartridge and loading combinations you read about doing very well on line for many will be somewhat universal. Its not concrete but will fast track you to success in many cases.

Your question unfortunately has way to many directions to chase so I am giving you my .02$ based on what I think you are looking for. As I said in the beginning you need an accurate rifle so we are taking a lot for granted prior to reloading practices... not to mention shooter ability, glass, rest, bench....

 

[Pete Wass]

First step is to buy a barrel chambered in a caliber that shoots well, is easy to reload, and has very high quality brass available.

I would suggest starting with 223 or 6br.

If you are buying Lapua brass, you can skip all brass steps. That's right, I said it. I do suggest a VLD inside reamer.

Get an arbor press seater press from the jump. You will discover all your mistakes very early by seating with a tiny arbor press.

I abandoned my Arbor press 20 years ago. I am looking for accuracy, never could get it with an arbor press.

 

[C.E.Smith043]

To me the absolute most important step is to make sure and have all powder labeled correctly, even when in my powder dispenser. If in doubt, throw it out.

 

[William Vogel]

The first problem with your question is virgin brass. You need to fire the brass to shape it to your chamber to properly size it. While you’re firing virgin brass you may create a nice accurate load but it may change after first firing. I usually just use a powder and bullets that are less expensive and get through the brass to anneal, size, etc. After fire forming I get down to working the load. The brass still isn’t exactly where it needs to be until a few resizing sessions and it finally settles in for most cases. So to split the process into two categories is really no good. Yes, I can get accurate loads on virgin brass but I place no credibility on the recipe. I have an extensive inventory of components. When I exhaust a set of cases or begin a new barrel, it’s a new beginning. I have GRT software and I run some profiles to see the predictions and then go and shoot. New brass is an opportunity to break in the barrel vs developing the load. It’s wasteful but necessary. What I tell people that come to my range to shoot long distance is that I’ve shot that target at the end thousands of times and that’s why I can small groups. It’s not because I developed this quickly, it’s because it’s been repeated many times.

 

[NZ_Fclass]

Neck tension and seating depth run a real tight race at my house.

Primer choice and powder charge are virtually irrelevant if the aforementioned are sorted out first.

So, most important step on virgin brass…. Pick a primer and luke warm charge. Start them out with .002 tension, run your depth test, increase tension as needed. You should be in the .1s and .2s by then.


This is going to be my only post in this thread, so I’ll address this before leaving.

A LOT of results seen on paper are a function of some other step…. So when you see a guy say this or that primer or powder made the gun come alive…. I think they would have found their first choice worked had they went through tension and depth.

So, again, for me it’s depth, tension, charge. I’ve picked a powder and bullet before the gun is ever assembled.

Absofriggin' correct. A 100-10 answer.

 

[Steve Donlon]

Neck tension and seating depth run a real tight race at my house.

Primer choice and powder charge are virtually irrelevant if the aforementioned are sorted out first.

So, most important step on virgin brass…. Pick a primer and luke warm charge. Start them out with .002 tension, run your depth test, increase tension as needed. You should be in the .1s and .2s by then.


This is going to be my only post in this thread, so I’ll address this before leaving.

A LOT of results seen on paper are a function of some other step…. So when you see a guy say this or that primer or powder made the gun come alive…. I think they would have found their first choice worked had they went through tension and depth.

So, again, for me it’s depth, tension, charge. I’ve picked a powder and bullet before the gun is ever assembled. a

I'm going to add to my post and agree with Clancy. I turn my necks to get the right neck tension. Because I seat my bullets bearing surface right at the neck shoulder junction +. Where a donut could form, then FL size my brass to .003" tension then run them through a mandrel to get them to .002". Lapua brass is not perfect and if it's off .001" and you turn them from .014"+ to .012", it could make a difference to some.

 

[jackieschmidt]

While loading processes are important, tune far out ways it. You can win matches with the most basic loading process if you nail the tune

^^^^^^^^^

 

[wywindsor]

This was not a complete novice question to begin with. My point is to find out what steps shooters take to get results. Here is steps I see all over the net for brass prep. No particular order and you may figure out who started or prefers them.

Primer pocket uniforming
Run mandrel for neck tension
FL resize per your discipline
Case trim from shoulder or case base
Chamfer In/out mouth of case.
Weigh cases
Turn necks
Throw away brass after one firing

Please feel free to add to this or praise it. Maybe bash the $hit out of it. Be my guest. Provide your reason. And yes this may cross bolt action disciplines.