Remington 700 replacement bolt.

[AlNyhus]

Do the Mack Bros replacement bolts nee to be fitted to action for proper primary extraction?
Distance from locking lug to handle

Remington 700 SA Bolt Upgrade | Mack Brothers

Complete and fully assembled Remington 700 SA Bolt Upgrade. Bolt bodies are nitrided to maintain strength and durability while still allowing smooth bolt

macbros.com

 

[tobnpr]

Get a thicker recoil lug.
Determine the thickness needed for headspace clearance desired.
Take it to a local machine shop and have them grind it to the specified thickness.
Easy button. I'd never try to face a recoil lug on a lathe, hackery in my book. Mill will do it better as long as it's precisely trammed.

 

[Riesel]

Right, I’m assuming that chamber and counterbore needs to be set back about .01-.015 . The old bolt had about .011” of clearance, this new Mack brothers bolt will just start to rotate and then get tight. New bolt has same bolt nose to bolt face depth, but from the back of lugs to bolt nose it’s .01ish longer(I just put some dial calipers on it). I’m guessing it probably would have been a drop in or very close but the .01 is what got took off when original bolt was trued then re barreled. That’s what I was hoping to accomplish by trimming lug abutments or bolt lugs. They’re right above though. It needs to come out of the barrel.

In the unlikely scenario that i get bolt clearance where it needs to be and im only a few .001 from making headspace and it looks like i have ample primary extraction I still may take it from lug abutments to keep from buying a reamer, I just didn’t want to take .01” from them.

yes

 

[Rem700 shooter]

Get a thicker recoil lug.
Determine the thickness needed for headspace clearance desired.
Take it to a local machine shop and have them grind it to the specified thickness.
Easy button. I'd never try to face a recoil lug on a lathe, hackery in my book. Mill will do it better as long as it's precisely trammed.

I have a mill, lathe would be fine too if you have a good way to hold, all your doing is roughing the material off because it will be finished on my grinder anyways. Still not gonna do it this way because I have barrel engraving to contend with and it would be out of time If I messed with recoil lug thickness.

 

[tobnpr]

and it would be out of time If I messed with recoil lug thickness.

Changing lug thickness has no affect on primary extraction.

 

[paperpuncher]

Changing lug thickness has no affect on primary extraction.

He’s referring to the lettering

 

[butchlambert]

Get a thicker recoil lug.
Determine the thickness needed for headspace clearance desired.
Take it to a local machine shop and have them grind it to the specified thickness.
Easy button. I'd never try to face a recoil lug on a lathe, hackery in my book. Mill will do it better as long as it's precisely trammed.

I guess that's why I have a surface grinder.

 

[butchlambert]

Changing lug thickness has no affect on primary extraction.

He’s referring to the lettering

He also said primary extraction.

 

[ELR LVR]

I guess that's why I have a surface grinder.

Surface grinder would be the best way to go.
Also to ensure both sides are parallel to each other.
---------------------------------------------------------
But some of us machinists accomplish what we need by getting creative
---with what we have on hand
Dont matter how it gets done as long as it's right in the end
and most importantly, that it shoots good

 

[Greg Y]

This will help. Measure it up and answer the questions for bolt nose recess and such.

 

[tobnpr]

I guess that's why I have a surface grinder.

No doubt. One machine that would get rarely used in my shop, but when you need one, there ain't no substitute. I've shied away because I just don't know how to evaluate a used one to be certain it's up to snuff. Minor wear on a lathe or mill is usually no big deal and can be compensated for, I suppose not so much for a machine that needs to be accurate to four digits.

 

[butchlambert]

No doubt. One machine that would get rarely used in my shop, but when you need one, there ain't no substitute. I've shied away because I just don't know how to evaluate a used one to be certain it's up to snuff. Minor wear on a lathe or mill is usually no big deal and can be compensated for, I suppose not so much for a machine that needs to be accurate to four digits.

I use mine very little, but it came with the shop that I bought, the equipment that is. It is very handy though as a lot of friends have a use for it.

 

[Rem700 shooter]

He also said primary extraction.

Yes, sorry if I wasn’t clear. I am solely concerned about barrel engraving with changing recoil lug thickness. I understand recoil lug thickness won’t affect primary extraction.

 

[Rem700 shooter]

This will help. Measure it up and answer the questions for bolt nose recess and such.View attachment 1661736

Yes I have this print and the other one floating around. It’s great. This is my exact plan, will handle just like chambering a new barrel, except modifying what’s already there. My hunch is tenon, counterbore and chamber will need to be cut back .01 or so. Will know for sure when I get started

 

[WSnyder]

I use mine very little, but it came with the shop that I bought, the equipment that is. It is very handy though as a lot of friends have a use for it.

I'm glad I have one. Not needed much but when you do it's great