Thanks to each of you for sharing your information. Your responses highlite how much I have to learn about reloading though I have been reloading for hunting for 40 years. Now that I am looking for more precision in my loads, I have alot to learn.
When I FL resize with my 40 year old RCBS press and dies I cam over. I set the die 1/8 turn past (lower) than touching the shell holder. Is that correct?
Can I shoulder bump with regular FL resize die? How do I measure it?
Shoulder datum--where is it and how do I measure it?
Someone asked what I mean by "won't chamber the nickel cases." I mean I can't close the bolt without a hammer.
Mark611 suggested a Sheridan go no go case gauge. What is the remedy if a case is a no go?
My issues started with my quest to fine tune seat deapth. With Winchester cases I adjusted seat die so bullet just touches lands - no jam. Nickel cases with same seat die setting won't chamber.
Further testing showed that with Winchester cases about half the seated bullets measured .008 shorter than the other half, and in seating these bullets there was no resistance on the press handle as the bullet was pushed into the case. Why are these cases different?
All cases had been fired and resized an unknown number of times.
I am a hunter, not a bench rest shooter but I would like to getat least 1 moa accuracy from my rifles. I have a press, dies, a digital micrometer, and a bullet colator with caliber inserts. What oth
Any input will be appreciated.
I am hunter too with over 50+ years of experience hunting and reloading. These days I primarily hunt varmints which requires precision reloads in the 1/2 to 5/8 moa range.
If you are a hunter - there is no need to seat your bullet that close to the lands. Functionality is just as important if not more than accuracy. First, the cartridge should fit the magazine. Second, there should be enough bullet seated in the neck to provide adequate bullet tension. One bullet diameter minus the boat tail portion, if applicable, is a good rule of thumb in my experience.
One moa accuracy is certainly achievable without going into the weeds on reloading minutia. I would focus on bullet and powder selection rather than seating depth.
One the best things you can do is dedicate a group of cases to a specific rifle, rotate there use, and mark the number of times reloaded on the cartridge box. I found the starting with virgin cases yields the best results in the long term.
You can bump the shoulder with a standard F/L die. Some cam over may be necessary depending on how much play you have in your press and linkages. Read my post on measuring cases, post # 16. With a bump gauge and caliper, you get more information than with a comparator gauge. Both are useful, the latter assume you have a SAMMI (factory) spec chamber in your rifle.
However, a bump gauge measuring a fired cases (primer removed) at a datum line on the shoulder allows you to set your die F/L die to obtain the optimum sizing (case fit in the rifle chamber).
It can be tedious changing the lock ring on the F/L die to make adjustments. Two tools that make the process easy are Redding Competition Shell Holder or Skip Shims. I prefer Shim shims because they are much cheaper, and I can use them for any cartridge. However both can work.
If you are an infrequent shooter and do not concern yourself with case life, for hunting applications and some occasional sight in at the range, the .002 bump is an effective way to go after the cases have been fully fired formed to fit the rifle chamber. Functionality is a must for a hunting reload.
Trying to explain all this on the net is difficult. If you can get with an experience reloader the learning process would be more efficient. Precision varmint hunters load for precision. One of those could help you a lot. However, do not hesitate to ask questions. You can PM me and we can discuss options for more direct contact and discussion.
