Anyone oil finish laminate stocks?

[Leadfarmer]

I've got a laminate f class stock. I was thinking of sending it to a guy who owns a body shop near me and can spray it, but I think I want to go with an oil finish on it. I just like the oil look more. I watched and read a lot on the process. However the sanding seems like a lot and I really don't want to screw it up. Does anyone do oil finishes here?

Thanks

 

[jds holler]

I'mma watching this with interest. I've never done a laminate, but I love the rubbed oil thing on my walnut stocks, and am pretty proud of some of them.

My thoughts are that the glue line on a laminate might get a little glossy compared to the wood laminations. Most of us final sand with 400 or 600 wet/dry paper for final oil applications, and that will pretty much put a polish on the glue -- I think. Might be just fine though. I've got an un-used Boyds sitting here, and you've got me about interested enough to do a little experimenting. jd

 

[jackieschmidt]

I did this Shehane Baby Tracker in True oil. About 6 coats, sanding each one.

 

[Leadfarmer]

@jds holler do it! Haha. I was also curious about the glue. I was thinking it wouldn't adhere well, but I have no idea.

@jackieschmidt looks great! Id be more than happy with a stock like that.

 

[ricco1949]

I did a LRBR multi-blue laminate stock in True-0il about 20 years ago just to get it shooting quickly.

It looked nice for a year or two. Eventually the oil yellowed and the multi-blue laminations turned a green hue.

Ended up stripping it and spraying with clear coat.

I think it would have been fine for walnut or any brown hue laminations.

 

[chuckshooter]

Careful, oil made my stock too dark. Just clear coat is all it needed. But different stocks react differently to oils.

 

[clowdis]

To really fill the grain like it should be it can take forever to finish a laminate stock with oil. These are generally pretty rough from the open grain standpoint. You can use a filler first but it would need to be something clear and not the usual stuff. If it was me I'd get the auto clear coat, faster and tougher.

 

[mikecockcroft]

Both of these are tru oil
Glue lines not an issue

 

[ronemus]

Be sure to get a known good oil - I got some off-brand stuff that looked great but turned sticky in high humidity, ruining the gloss with fingerprints. My current go-to is Watco Danish Oil.

 

[Bc'z]

Clear it and knock the shine back with steel wool.

 

[CharlieNC]

Minn Wax makes a wiping polyurethane which seals quickly and the gloss can be trailered. Arrow Wood Finish is a nice oil, much better than linseed.

 

[ggshoots]

I have used true oil on a number of laminates and never had a problem. I have heard some say they can get a pink hue but I have not had a problem. Did I mention I am colorblind? Lol... Why do people ask me if I am shooting my wifes rifle?

 

[NorCalMikie]

I have used true oil on a number of laminates and never had a problem. I have heard some say they can get a pink hue but I have not had a problem. Did I mention I am colorblind? Lol... Why do people ask me if I am shooting my wifes rifle?

Did a one with True oil. After a few years, decided it needed something else. Sanded it down, took one to the body shop and had it sprayed with Automotive Clear. The dry True Oil acted as a sealer. The Auto Clear brought out colors that I had never seen before and couldn't imagine being there till it got the new finish.
If you plan on doing an oil finish, be sure you let it sit and DRY before you go after it a second time.
A week or two between coats (IMHO) wouldn't be out of line. Did one coat, set the stock behind the stove for a week before I went after it again. Apply the Ture Oil, let it soak in, "wipe it down" real good before it sets and let it dry. Patience IS a virtue.

 

[SSchnd]

I used True Oil and the sealer on a 1901 mnfg Winchester rifle stock. I was all laid by hand (meaning I did not spray it, I rubbed in on by fingers). I grew up and still work in a collision shop by the way.
The True Oil was easy to work with, and turned out a very high gloss finish. I used the sealer x 2 coats before as the wood was from the turn of that century. Stripped off the old finish with lacquer thinner.

Only reason this was done on this rifle was the prior family member had no idea of what he had and used a course sand paper from for end cap to butt plate to sand the patina off.
Turnbull restoration was not in my budget.

Sadly this photo does not show it well enough

Need to keep a wet edge going, as the work time can be tentative depending on temps and such. but after 2 seal coats and 0000 steel wool scuffing, then 3 coats with 0000 steel wool prep between 1-2-3 it looks like I sprayed it. NorCaleMike said it, patience is a virtue but it takes a lot less gear to rub in the finish.