Clear oil stock finish
- Thread starter gamma
- Start date
Gamma.
I too have some wood stocks that require a clear finish. Don't want the amber tint that oil based finishes leave.
Tried the clear, water based acrylic finishes, they are not tough enough. Your hand sweat, heat and the pressure from your gloved left hand will deteriorate the finishes.
This Winter, I am going to put an automotive clear coat finish on the stocks. From what others have written, that should be the answer to a truly clear finish.
RGDS
Bob
I too have some wood stocks that require a clear finish. Don't want the amber tint that oil based finishes leave.
Tried the clear, water based acrylic finishes, they are not tough enough. Your hand sweat, heat and the pressure from your gloved left hand will deteriorate the finishes.
This Winter, I am going to put an automotive clear coat finish on the stocks. From what others have written, that should be the answer to a truly clear finish.
RGDS
Bob
Here are a few old Finishes.
1 Raw linseed oil thinned with a tad of turpentine sealed with a good wax like Johnson's paste wax and buffed. Allow several day between coats. Finish sanding with rotten stone or very fine wet dry paper.
2 tung oil allow to dry several days between coats.
{ this is hard stuff.{ they used it for emergency runways a long time ago.
3 True oil It is very good rub it in and let it dry for several days. Seal with a good wax .
Regular Automotive wax like simonize work very well for a sealer.
You can add Oil base min wax stains for color with the linseed and tung oil.
I hope this helps
1 Raw linseed oil thinned with a tad of turpentine sealed with a good wax like Johnson's paste wax and buffed. Allow several day between coats. Finish sanding with rotten stone or very fine wet dry paper.
2 tung oil allow to dry several days between coats.
{ this is hard stuff.{ they used it for emergency runways a long time ago.
3 True oil It is very good rub it in and let it dry for several days. Seal with a good wax .
Regular Automotive wax like simonize work very well for a sealer.
You can add Oil base min wax stains for color with the linseed and tung oil.
I hope this helps
holstil
Silver $$ Contributor
If you want to go with auto paint. I have a friend of mine who is trying to get a little stock painting business. He does cars at present. I showed him the site of Mike Rickfels, I hope I spelled that right, and he did a few of the caramelizing stocks and they look awsome. He's done 4 of my guns now with as good as results as anything I've seen. He has pics of mine and other guns. I think he uses the same stuff as Mike. I think Mike is as good as you can get for the money, but I think he is swamped. I'm not sure what my friends prices are yet, but his business is called Pro Reflections in Indian Trail NC. His site is under construction but has his contact numbers on it. His name is Jay Byrum if you need one turned around soon.
I didn't mean to be a salesman, its just I went through the same thing and wanted one done faster than I could find anybody else. I had a hard time finding anyone that advertises gun stock painting, even googling.
Jim
I didn't mean to be a salesman, its just I went through the same thing and wanted one done faster than I could find anybody else. I had a hard time finding anyone that advertises gun stock painting, even googling.
Jim
I am a fan of tung oil on my finishes if I don't want them shiny and hard like automotive clear coat.
The problem with Linseed oil is that it oxidizes over the years and will eventually turn a reddish rust color. That is why military rifles with wood on them have a red tinge.
The problem with Linseed oil is that it oxidizes over the years and will eventually turn a reddish rust color. That is why military rifles with wood on them have a red tinge.
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