Measuring trigger height?

[LVLAaron]

I'm working with an action and stock... To get the trigger shoe position correct, the action needs to be what feels like a little low in the stock. How would I measure where the trigger sits in relation to the action? Centerline of the firing pin, to the bottom of the trigger?

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

That's what I would do.
FWIW
(Which is about $0.02)

 

[LVLAaron]

Now I have to figure out a way to do that

 

[Sniperhandle]

Position it to where you can use a height gauge to get the center line of the cocking piece and then the trigger. As an assembled action with the bolt closed.
I have a mitutoyo vernier height gauge, But the cheap ones like this are not bad, I have a cheap digital one also and it's decent. I enjoy picking up a vernier caliper and reading it from time to time just to keep it fresh in my mind how to read one.

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[LVLAaron]

Good idea. I should have one of those anyway.

 

[Sniperhandle]

Good idea. I should have one of those anyway.

For 30 years I have wanted to build a few action stands, Kind of like a 90 degree plate with an old barrel stub welded to it that you could just screw the action onto for working on it and even a small parts tray built into it. One day I will throw a few together for different actions.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

For 30 years I have wanted to build a few action stands, Kind of like a 90 degree plate with an old barrel stub welded to it that you could just screw the action onto for working on it and even a small parts tray built into it. One day I will throw a few together for different actions.

That's actually a cool idea. If you had the barrel stub attached with a capscrew you could rotate it to whatever angle you wanted.
I end up putting in lots of hand work on recievers(polishing is addictive), and that might be better than holding it in a vise with soft jaws.

 

[Will Henry]

For 30 years I have wanted to build a few action stands, Kind of like a 90 degree plate with an old barrel stub welded to it that you could just screw the action onto for working on it and even a small parts tray built into it. One day I will throw a few together for different actions.

That's not a terrible idea. I would attach the barrel stub so that I could index the action for work. With interchangeable arbors, it could accommodate various receivers. Make it like an angle plate, so it can be mounted on a milling table. WH

 

[Sniperhandle]

That's not a terrible idea. I would attach the barrel stub so that I could index the action for work. With interchangeable arbors, it could accommodate various receivers. Make it like an angle plate, so it can be mounted on a milling table. WH

exactly, I would make it similar to an angle plate complete with tig welded gussets to stiffen it.
Like I always say "Louis Gusset Junior" Haha!

 

[Will Henry]

Jonny was quicker on the keyboard than I. Send him the royalties! WH

 

[Will Henry]

I have straight stubs for various actions so I can screw the action on and clamp the stub in the vise. I got this from Martin Hagn, who used the system to hold his actions when he was working on them. WH

 

[Kiwishooter]

WH thanks I've just found a use for some barrel stubs I have sitting here and a block of cast iron.
A rectangular block of cast iron could make two angle plates

 

[WayneShaw]

You would want the bottom of the trigger housing about flush with the bottom of the stock, the trigger guard inletted flush with the stock. There is a little wiggle room, but you can measure the trigger to the action bottom. But then how does that mate up with the end of the top of the action tang and the stock profile? If it's a wood stock you can work on it, but fiberglass is another matter.

When I have made stocks for myself (laminated), I make a wood square 2-1/8"x 2-1/8", and true the surfaces on the mill. It ends up a little bigger than 2". I do all the inletting to it, action and barrel channel, trigger slot and then take off 5/8" or so to the top behind the tang area to the butt for bolt and cleaning rod clearance. Inletting to a depth of around half the action diameter works out well with how the trigger sits to the bottom of the stock. I then add to the sides and the keel for final profile. FWIW.

 

[LVLAaron]

You would want the bottom of the trigger housing about flush with the bottom of the stock, the trigger guard inletted flush with the stock. There is a little wiggle room, but you can measure the trigger to the action bottom. But then how does that mate up with the end of the top of the action tang and the stock profile? If it's a wood stock you can work on it, but fiberglass is another matter.

I could have made the reason for my question a little more clear. I have an action I'm unfamiliar with, and a stock I'm unfamiliar with that I need(ed) to mate together. I needed to lower the "action centerline" of the stock about an 1/8th to get the trigger in the right place. I want to measure the action, and compare it to a standard rem 700 and or a panda

 

[joshb]

Not to sound like a caveman but I just install the trigger and measure off the bottom of the action for what I need to cut the stock.
Cutting pillars at the correct length for the trigger guard or bottom metal and installing them when I bed the action gives me my depths of cut and centers for the bottom cuts.