One shot zero

[Jacks Grampa]

I wonder how much ammo I've saved since I learned it?

 

[J.D.Erwin]

a lot?

 

[chop house]

I wonder how much ammo I've saved since I learned it?

But think of all the practice you didn't get...

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

I wonder how much ammo I've saved since I learned it?

To be honest, it doesn't seem fair. When I was going to the range regularly, I seemed to spend most of my time zeroing and re-zeroing my rifles, there was always at least one rifle or scope that seemed to have needed it. I could never let anything be...LOL

I am interested in learning more about that one shot zero though, are you offering instruction, or does this need to be learned through the school of hard knocks?

 

[Richard Jones]

I'm assuming he's talking about shooting one shot, then, with rifle immobile in bags and crosshair aligned with original aiming point, move crosshairs to the bullet hole. I remember the sequence by telling myself to 'find original point of aim and take the crosshairs to the hole', as in basketball.... This doesn't mean you can't or shouldn't take follow up shots to confirm your zero, but it does get you close.

The above is predicated on the idea that your first shot hit somewhere/anywhere on the paper. Pretty sure I first read about this in Carmichel's Book of the Rifle. What an outstanding book!! Absolutely a must read.

If my assumption is incorrect, then I am clueless, which some folks might say is my normal condition...

 

[jwv2001]

If you're a lousy shot, or have a lousy rifle, you're going to be chasing that bullet hole all over the target.

 

[Jacks Grampa]

You are correct Richard. I shoot one shot from bags and then lock the rifle in a Lead Sled type rest. Then just get the cross hairs on the bullseye and move them to the bullet hole using the turrets. You can also hold the rifle and have a friend turn the turrets. Saves a lot of ammo for practice and hunting.

 

[Gary in MD]

Does this work for all brands of scopes?
Asking for a friend

 

[jelenko]

I'm not seeing how this is any different than aiming at the bullseye, taking one shot, then adjusting the sights/scope so the shot's POI would have been in the center of the bull.
That said, it's very rare that any given shot is in the exact middle of any group shot by the ammo/rifle. So, trying to get a solid zero with one shot can easily 'zero' your rifle near the edge of what would be a multiple shot [say 10] group.
This is why the standard 'instructions' are to take three shots and zero on the center of those three shots.
As mentioned, if the shooter is introducing any variation from shot to shot, it will cause the POI of the shots to move and, hence, what appears to be the zero.
Also, just as important, is the zero is going to change based on the way the rifle is held - for example, held on a rest on a bench for zeroing but held on a tree limb during shooting for effect.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Spending some time looking through the bore at the target then getting your scope centered to that point, will get you real close on paper to start with.

 

[sw282]

l have shot Jarrett Rifles range since around 1980. Never seen a ''0ne shot Zero''

They do get pretty close with a RED Frisbee @ 100yds

Bolt out, look down barrel. Adjust scope to Frisbee

 

[K22]

If it works for the OP, that's great.

For me, because I need a consistent POI in the matter in which I shoot the rifle in the field, I need more shots. The bench is fine for getting close and is essential when installing a new scope or making any major mechanical change such as changing the eye relief, mounts, etc. but after that, I do all my final sight in off the cross sticks because it shoots differently than off the bench with a front and rear rest.

For the average big game hunter here in PA, hitting a paper plate is probably enough so just about any system will get you close enough. For varmint and predator hunters where the vitals are much smaller, a precise sight in that is repeatable is essential and I don't think you can do that with one shot.

I have helped a lot of hunter's sight in rifles for expensive big game hunts out West and Canada. First thing I do it tell them to put the Lead Sled in the truck for two reasons, 1, it can damage the scope in heavy recoiling rifles, and 2, it will produce a different point of impact than a field shooting position. I also avoid having them shoot the rifle in free recoil mode off a front rest. I have them hold the forearm while resting the rifle on the front rest since this simulates the matter in which most of them will shoot the rifle in the field.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

One shot zero, a phrase/practice conceived for our video game generation. Most experienced shooters know a group of shots are needed to determine a center to make adjustments from(especially hunting rifles shooting 1 inch plus diameter groups). This does take more time,concentration and ammo.

 

[Preacher]

I'm assuming he's talking about shooting one shot, then, with rifle immobile in bags and crosshair aligned with original aiming point, move crosshairs to the bullet hole. I remember the sequence by telling myself to 'find original point of aim and take the crosshairs to the hole', as in basketball.... This doesn't mean you can't or shouldn't take follow up shots to confirm your zero, but it does get you close.

The above is predicated on the idea that your first shot hit somewhere/anywhere on the paper. Pretty sure I first read about this in Carmichel's Book of the Rifle. What an outstanding book!! Absolutely a must read.

If my assumption is incorrect, then I am clueless, which some folks might say is my normal condition...

Your not clueless at all, it is what it is and it's spot on...

 

[SteveOak]

I have done it twice recently. Very cool!

 

[RabbitSlayer]

That method works fine, but with a ffp scope I find it easier to just measure it with the reticle.

 

[BuffaloBill]

That method works fine, but with a ffp scope I find it easier to just measure it with the reticle.

I recently did this on my 6Creedmoor with Mark5 HD H59 and it worked perfectly.

 

[Dimner]

Spending some time looking through the bore at the target then getting your scope centered to that point, will get you real close on paper to start with.

This is the way to go...


Once I started using this method, everything became super easy. Look through the bore and line it up with the middle of your 100y target. Make your scope cross hairs point to the same spot. Fire a shot and it's always within 4-6" on paper at 100y. Often even closer. Then just adjust the scope as necessary. Unless it's a hunting rifle, I never need a dead on zero. I like my groups to be either 1" above or below the aim point.


For hunting rifles, I do similar to @K22 . I'll zero the scope on a bench and make sure the center of 3 rounds are where I want my zero (usually 2" high at 100).

Then, I spend time on cold bore zero. I do this in October when temps are in the 40's. In field shooting position, shoot one shot. Let the rifle sit for 45 minutes. Shoot another shot. Adjust zero as necessary. Once I have the zero dialed in, wait another 45 minutes. Shoot one cold and a follow up shot 3 seconds later. I take a pic of the target and save the physical target as well.

Now I know my cold bore zero and a follow up shot point of impact. With well built and bedded rifles, these two will only be 0.5" or maybe 0.75" off from each other. However, if it's a milsurp or something else, the cold bore and follow up can be inches apart.

 

[Dave in WI]

That method works fine, but with a ffp scope I find it easier to just measure it with the reticle.

But all of the math…. Lol

 

[JMayo]

That is the way i set up at every match.