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Something to these abrasive cleaners

I'd suggest taking a look at the Dyna Tek Bore Coat product. I'm not much on snake oils stuff but on the barrels I've used this in...it works. It's not inexpensive but you can do a good number of barrels with it. My revolvers love it. :cool:
I'll give it a look thank you
 
Actually looking back I pretty sure j know where the leading came from and why is only certain parts of the barrel lol. I had slugged it once and for some reason tried to slug it again. Well stuff don't go quite right and end up smearing a good bit of the slug in the bore. I actually had labeled the gun as not to be shot till cleaned but due to some poor advanced before I had a bore scope I thought it would have been cleaned, yeaaah NO shooting jacketed ammo though a leaded bore does noting but iron it into the rifling :rolleyes: gotta live and learn that just because someone said they've done something for 30yrs can just mean they e been doing it wrong :D
You ain't kiddin' there. JB won't make your bore measure bigger. No matter what the other fella said.

Unless you go at it for a solid week or 2 that is. Even then I doubt it.
 
In the words of Bruce Willis, "Welcome to the party!" Jon Newman invited me to his place to shoot for the weekend. and deliver the shooting bench tops I had made for Indian Hammock range. He told me to bring my 6.5 and clean it to the best of my ability. I knew right away this was going to make me look foolish if it was dirty. I cleaned it 3 times and was certain it was clean. He produced a Hawkeye borescope, something I had never seen before that time, and we looked inside my Shilen barrel. It had carbon in the corners of the grooves. He told me that of people that didn't own a borescope or know about JB paste it was about as clean as he had ever scoped. I made some passes with JB on a parker hale jag and took another look, it was entirely free of carbon. I don't use JB every time I clean, maybe every 3rd time. He believed that JB was some form of diatramatious earth. If he is right it is most likely abrasive. But i don't think it is abrasive enough to do harm if used occasionally. Jon passed form his cancer that recured after 30 or 40 years, he was a member here and was known as octopus, he had worked for years at Perry Oceanographics as an engineer.
 
I clean with hoppe 9 and then scrub with nylon brush and medium automotive rubbing compound. does the job. repete with hoppes till clean.
 
I've used Iosso, JB, Chameleon gel, KG-2 for stubborn carbon. Since switching to Prolix for cleaning and being advised by the owner not to use petroleum products with it, I've changed to US Products GK-7 which is water soluable. They sent me a sample for testing and I've found it to be impressive. It seems to remove carbon much better and faster. Works wonders with carbon rings so far also. It is much easier to clean from the bore than JB also. I wont be using anything else from here on. Here are some pics of a rotted out 03 bore a friend brought me to clean. No rifling left, just pits. No doubt corrosive ammo and never cleaned. Took a 35 cal brush to get to bare rusted metal. The rest was carbon.
 

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I'd be VERY cautious using JB Bore paste after I used it to lap in a bushing on a .45....JB was quite aggresive.
I now use ISSO very sparingly for cleaning....doesn't take much...I don't shoot a lot of rounds before cleaning ...usually 20 or less.
Good luck and stay safe.
Interesting. Here’s an experiment I did 2 days ago:
I chucked an old Krieger, and polished the sight tenon with scotch brite. This left a decent finish, but there were still some fine scratches around the circumference.
I measured it in various places, and consistently read .7470-.7471” at 76.4°.
I then held a JB patch against it with an estimated 5 lbs of pressure at 725 rpm, for about 20 seconds. I reapplied JB, and repeated this 3 more times. JB turned black, just like it does in actual use.
Cleaned it up with lacquer thinner, and waited for the temp to return to 76.4°.
Fine scratches were still visible. Apparent level of polish or shininess was unchanged. This time, all micrometer readings were .7471”.
I’m comfortable that it is not cutting/abrading 416r.
 
Interesting. Here’s an experiment I did 2 days ago:
I chucked an old Krieger, and polished the sight tenon with scotch brite. This left a decent finish, but there were still some fine scratches around the circumference.
I measured it in various places, and consistently read .7470-.7471” at 76.4°.
I then held a JB patch against it with an estimated 5 lbs of pressure at 725 rpm, for about 20 seconds. I reapplied JB, and repeated this 3 more times. JB turned black, just like it does in actual use.
Cleaned it up with lacquer thinner, and waited for the temp to return to 76.4°.
Fine scratches were still visible. Apparent level of polish or shininess was unchanged. This time, all micrometer readings were .7471”.
I’m comfortable that it is not cutting/abrading 416r.
Doug - Very cool!
Would you repeat that experiment using Iosso?
I'd be happy to send a donor barrel and/or a couple tubs of JB or tubes of Iosso.
 
I know some will cringe with this suggestion but here goes. For years on old badly leaded barrels I have taken a bronze brush and wrapped some strands of FFFF steel wool around it. Soak the brush with a fine lube (WD40 or the like) and scrub the bore about 10 strokes. Amazing the amount of crap that will come out of the bore. I am not saying to do this on your FINE precision barrel. I have NEVER damaged a barrel using this method but have saved some to regain accuracy.
A. J. Palik
 
As an FYI, I don't think what you called firecracking was firecracking. Or if it was, my barrels get a lot worse. The first inch or so of rifling looking like an alligator's back is what I call firecracking.

I don't think I've ever spent as little as 10 minutes using Iosso on a barrel. More like twice or 3x or 4x that. Lots of flushing and borescoping to monitor progress.
 
As an FYI, I don't think what you called firecracking was firecracking. Or if it was, my barrels get a lot worse. The first inch or so of rifling looking like an alligator's back is what I call firecracking.

I don't think I've ever spent as little as 10 minutes using Iosso on a barrel. More like twice or 3x or 4x that. Lots of flushing and borescoping to monitor progress.
How often do you use Iosso? I.e., after how many shots?
 
I know some will cringe with this suggestion but here goes. For years on old badly leaded barrels I have taken a bronze brush and wrapped some strands of FFFF steel wool around it. Soak the brush with a fine lube (WD40 or the like) and scrub the bore about 10 strokes. Amazing the amount of crap that will come out of the bore. I am not saying to do this on your FINE precision barrel. I have NEVER damaged a barrel using this method but have saved some to regain accuracy.
A. J. Palik
A few years back I came across a TC Encore 209 X .50 barrel that was put away in a soft case for a year, fouled with Triple 7.
The pitting was extreme, to say the least.
0000 steel wool on a tight brush/patch combo smoothed it out enough to turn it back into a great shooter and easy loader.

Not very often, just sometimes, and in moderation.
 
I use VFG pellets with VFG's jag and Iosso bore paste to clean the barrels of my rifles when necessary. You might want to give the combination of VFG pellets and Iosso a try.
Where are you finding any VFG pellets? All I can find are the small packages at HIGH prices! Thanks
 
How often do you use Iosso? I.e., after how many shots?

Not very. I generally shoot 25/each weekend day. I'll hit the barrel with Iosso when I start getting that black, I call it carbon staining - don't really know what it is - which works out to every couple of months or so. My short range barrels (2 of them) made something over 6K rds - retired because they eroded to the point where I couldn't reach the lands. Long range barrel quit grouping after about 5.5K (and loads were getting a little long as well. Needless to say, I shoot for entertainment rather than competition.

Redd: Two places I've found the pellets were Brownells and Creedmore. I've seen them on EBay as well, though I don't remember the actual vendor. A quick web search shows Freeland and Krale have them.
 
That shiny stuff is Copper. The Patch Out will take it off after soaking it for a time. The patch will be blue when you clean it out. I also am a proponent of Rem Clean. It is said to be less abrasive then the other stuff but you don't have to worry about any of it with your Mosin :)

For ironed on Carbon I use the Rem Clean with steel Wool wrapped around an old brush in well used barrels. It is quite fast at cleaning. The steel wool wears out fat so just keep adding, I keep stroking it through until I can get to where I can stroke back and fourth in a problem area in short strokes. I remember a friend who works at lapping barrels telling me he used 120 Grit to lap with. I have 180 here but plan to buy some 120. That would further expedite removing junk in a short time. I use the lapping compound on the VFG pellets, by the way. The nice thing is one can simply turn the cleaning rod clockwise to tighten the pellets, to provide the pressure one needs.
 
Some people will run backward from this but others, not so much so I'll say it and leave it to your discretion. Mercury! Mercury is the BEST ever at removing lead.
Read this
 
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