I’m new to this so I’m not sure what you mean by contour so this may be a stupid response. It’s a smooth barrel. Not fluted.
Larger than MOA groups. What would you check first?
- Thread starter Gun Man Dan
- Start date
Ah. My gun smith never told me which one. I’d have to guess sporter but I can’t confirm for sure until I get home to measure it.
No problem follow me on this
Do you have a bore scope?
I do but I’m not sure what I’m looking at when I’m using it. I’m not that experienced.
No problem you will get experience on this one I gaurentee it.
clean your barrel down to the bare metal all carbon and cooper removed
Next go out and shoot 5 rounds dont worry about a scope or even a target at this point
just shoot 5 rounds go home and run the bore scope down the barrel and see how much copper is in it
this will get you started on the road to finding your problem.
If you dont know what you are looking at check this out.
peregrinemonolithics.com
Barrel Care Part 1: How to know if a barrel is clean
In this first part of our series on barrel care for improved accuracy we look at how to know if a barrel is clean
peregrinemonolithics.com
Awesome. Great link. Thank you.If you dont know what you are looking at check this out.
Barrel Care Part 1: How to know if a barrel is clean
In this first part of our series on barrel care for improved accuracy we look at how to know if a barrel is clean
After such a drop, it was definitely worth sending the scope in to get it checked, especially since you didn't have any history with the new barrel. Even if the setup still shot well, it would be worth the cost of- the postage to have it checked out. When it gets back, leave the muzzle devices off of it, clean it REALLY good
, and then start your load development from the beginning. Just because you're old barrel liked that load doesn't mean that the new one will. This is especially true with lighter contours like a sporter. Personally, I would start at the minimum powder charge and then step up in 0.5gr increments until you are near max. How close you get to max is up to you. Look for patterns in your groups. Select an accurate group where the group above and below was still decent, and then go through that range of powder charges in 0.3gr increments. From the first set of groups, if you don't have anything that looks promising, switch to a different powder and try again. Just because your old barrel liked this powder, doesn't mean the new one will, especially with a lighter contour such as a sporter. (See a pattern here?)
, and then start your load development from the beginning. Just because you're old barrel liked that load doesn't mean that the new one will. This is especially true with lighter contours like a sporter. Personally, I would start at the minimum powder charge and then step up in 0.5gr increments until you are near max. How close you get to max is up to you. Look for patterns in your groups. Select an accurate group where the group above and below was still decent, and then go through that range of powder charges in 0.3gr increments. From the first set of groups, if you don't have anything that looks promising, switch to a different powder and try again. Just because your old barrel liked this powder, doesn't mean the new one will, especially with a lighter contour such as a sporter. (See a pattern here?)
I emailed my gunsmith and he said it was the Sendero contour but I need to check dimensions when I get home. So assembly a heavier barrel than the Sporter, which would be a good thing.
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
A custom barrel whether sporter,varmint, sendero or bull contour doesn't guarantee sub moa groups. There are too many other variables during shooting.
Agreed. There are many replies to my post that I’ll be looking into once my scope comes back and my Lapua brass gets delivered.
Is there anything special you do to unfired brass before first firing? Any trimming needed to get them all the same length or measure and do that after fire forming? Do you run the new brass through the sizing die?
dellet
Gold $$ Contributor
Wouldn’t be a bad idea to shoot the same brass, bullets, powder charge when you get the scope back. Some of the factory ammo if you still have it.
Only change one thing at a time, best way to know what the problem was.
Kind of a tough way to brake into forum life, good to see you stuck with it. Hopefully problem is resolved and the groups get smaller than expected.
Only change one thing at a time, best way to know what the problem was.
Kind of a tough way to brake into forum life, good to see you stuck with it. Hopefully problem is resolved and the groups get smaller than expected.
Get the scope on when it comes back.
I can’t follow whether you have any loaded ammo left. If so shoot it. See what you get.
For a reticle that may have been bouncing around I’d say you should be happy.
Don’t start jumping all over endless items.
You dropped the rifle 3 feet! Let’s see what happens when you get it back and mounted.
If it’s decent and steady then is the time to try to shoot tighter groups.
Only go down that tunnel when the scope is on.
I can’t follow whether you have any loaded ammo left. If so shoot it. See what you get.
For a reticle that may have been bouncing around I’d say you should be happy.
Don’t start jumping all over endless items.
You dropped the rifle 3 feet! Let’s see what happens when you get it back and mounted.
If it’s decent and steady then is the time to try to shoot tighter groups.
Only go down that tunnel when the scope is on.
Alright. That all sounds good. I’ll set the new brass aside. I have about 50 rounds loaded.
I do still have the new brass on order. So in the future do you guys just fire form it then do all the other things to the brass?
I do still have the new brass on order. So in the future do you guys just fire form it then do all the other things to the brass?
It’s been a long thread of back and forth that’s for sure. I’m willing to learn, it’s just I don’t have all the info people are asking for. My record keeping is weak too.
RegionRat
Gold $$ Contributor
These are also things we need to fix...
You should still consider getting to a well attended club or getting a live mentor.
117 replies. Did everyone forget he said the rifle dropped 3 feet to the floor and it landed on the scope turret with the weight of the rifle on it.
Yes run it through the sizing die.
dellet
Gold $$ Contributor
The good thing is there are a lot of very knowledgeable people ready and willing to help. The bad thing is that there are a lot of very knowledgeable people willing to help. It can be a bit intimidating at times.
Knowing what’s important and what’s not, what might give someone else a clue to the problem is hard. Maybe a good example is your scope information. Early on, probably the first 10 posts someone mentioned check your scope mounts. Your reply was something like you and just remounted it and were confident it was correct. Next page, the scope has been dropped. Then the whole rifle, then finally a few pages later, the whole rifle fell off the bench and landed on the turret. I think you knew the answer to the question the whole time. Maybe hoping for a miracle that it was load.
Posting groups of factory ammo and your handloads, pretty well confirmed you have a decent handle on putting a load together. Better than quality off the shelf, and also confirms your shooting setup and ability have merit.
I probably wasn’t the only one who might have underrated your ability. Honestly, most people are just the opposite and get pissy when people are trying to help and they don’t understand the questions completely. Saying I want to learn, and having a learning attitude aren’t always in the same headspace.
With that attitude, I think you’ll find a lot of people, wanting to help.
Not that it means much after your trial by fire, but welcome to the forum.
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