Stockys Carbon VG tikka stock.

[Phys86]

I absolutely would shoot it before bedding it. I haven't heard of anybody betting them, and everybody seems to love them. They say the inletting is very tight

 

[Dimner]

Carbon desert. I kind of prefer the carbon sagebrush, but it was not in stock.

Ahh I went with strata. And for some reason I thought you ordered a backordered stock and color. Thus, I panicked and got inside head and was worried that something was amiss with my order.

So I called. They answered right away and turns out mine is at the finishers right now. 1-2 weeks away from shipping. I am totally cool with that timing. 7-8 weeks total or something like that for a backorder and the color I wanted. Very nice and helpful CS as well.

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Stock arrived, and I dunno, its ok. It might be going back.

Good:
1 Color is way better than the website I like it.
2 grip is big and fills my palm I wear an XL glove
3 comb is about 1\8 higher
4 comb is the same width from front to back

Neutral:
1 The pad is not glued
2 there is a lightweight foam in the butt
3 the stock is stiff

Bad:
1 inletting around back of a action is wayyyy proud. I mean, its not even close.
2 trigger guard inletting is too shallow. Its also like a hair too short causing the plastic to bow up in the center. This allows the guard to flex which makes noise. (I would buy a metal guard and resolve it then)
3 butt doesn't match the factory or a rem 700 so spacers or new pad are grind to fit. Why not make it a rem 700 shape loke the keg bravo?
4 safety hits stock, it will need a little sanding.
5 barrel is floating but barely. Id open it up a little
6 recoil lug is very loose and just falls out. Requires bedding. If I got the epoxy out im bedding the whole thing.
7 rear sling screw is not all the way in. The washer under it spins freely. I don't think it had another turn in it though.


I will have to sleep on it, but I have a spare factory varmint stock. I might just put it in that. I am not trying to save weight. I just want a vertical grip, higher comb, and stiffness.

 

[RabbitSlayer]

 

[RabbitSlayer]

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Factory t3 comb

 

[Dimner]

Thank you for taking the time to post that.

One question, are you saying the recoil lug in the bedding block is loose in the Tikka bottom of receiver slot? Or does the bedding block have a slot for the Tikka recoil lug and that slot is too big?

If mine comes with these issues, I'll let you know. However, bedding should help some. But I get your dilemma, it's not exactly as you were expecting.

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Thank you for taking the time to post that.

One question, are you saying the recoil lug in the bedding block is loose in the Tikka bottom of receiver slot? Or does the bedding block have a slot for the Tikka recoil lug and that slot is too big?

If mine comes with these issues, I'll let you know. However, bedding should help some. But I get your dilemma, it's not exactly as you were expecting.

The slot inside the stock is big. I tried it with a factory lug too. Same thing. I mean, its not like a big gap or anything, but it is just sitting in there. If you turn the stock over it falls out. In contrast, the factory stock is so tight it would need pliers to remove. The old t3 lite stock for this gun I bedded the lug and all around the front. I bed all stocks, but from other reviews I was hoping I wouldn't need to.

 

[Dimner]

The slot inside the stock is big. I tried it with a factory lug too. Same thing. I mean, its not like a big gap or anything, but it is just sitting in there. If you turn the stock over it falls out. In contrast, the factory stock is so tight it would need pliers to remove. The old t3 lite stock for this gun I bedded the lug and all around the front. I bed all stocks, but from other reviews I was hoping I wouldn't need to.

Ahh gotcha. In my 2 factory stocks, a wooden t3 and a syn t3x, they both could be plucked with just fingers. The aftermarket thicker recoil lugs needed pliers.

I use Tikka bedding method where the recoil lug slot is enlarged and then epoxied in place. Might want to consider that if you end up bedding. But also, it could shoot just fine.

 

[Phys86]

I would call them and then them know about the recoil lug and inletting for sure . Their CS is reportedly great so they may swap your stock out

 

[RabbitSlayer]

I would call them and then them know about the recoil lug and inletting for sure . Their CS is reportedly great so they may swap your stock out

I think I will. Its mainly the inletting at the tang I am not sure I can live with. Everything else I can easily fix.

 

[Dimner]

I think I will. Its mainly the inletting at the tang I am not sure I can live with. Everything else I can easily fix.

Yeah the tang would for sure bother me, and I'm not sure if it's something that can be taken care of at home. I've not worked with CF stocks before.

However, if you bed your rifle, it will raise up your action some. But probably not enough to make the inletting at the tang flush. Probably would raise it 30% of the distance.

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Yeah the tang would for sure bother me, and I'm not sure if it's something that can be taken care of at home. I've not worked with CF stocks before.

However, if you bed your rifle, it will raise up your action some. But probably not enough to make the inletting at the tang flush. Probably would raise it 30% of the distance.

What do you mean? I would remove material with a dremel and the action would stay in the exact position its in now. You would probably have magazine problems if you raise the action.

 

[Plumsask]

Mine has been good so far, Inletting was spot on.

 

[Tesoro]

Not sure what your deal is on the recoil lug and extra space. As long as you firmly push the action to rear when tightening the front action screw then you are gtg. Kinda like mounting a scope with picatinny interfaces.

Your barrel inlet at the forend is out of wack in the pic but assume this is because action not secured squarely?

Grind a tad off the tip of the sling stud. No big deal.

The rear tang would make me send back. it is not a fitment issue but paint shortage. Bummer.

Mr Stocky says no bedding needed. He said his CF compound has same hardness as alum. Mine shoots sub moa at distance non bedded.

 

[Dimner]

Yes, use a Dremel to make sure the recoil lug is floating when everything is mudded up. The key is to use spacers in the pillars, so the action screws are exactly centered. This centers everything.

My first Tikka bedding job was a horrible mess when I left the recoil lug recess unaltered. My action screws were not centered at all. That was because the unaltered recoil lug recess constricted the whole system.

Basically this is the stress free method of bedding but with a twist because of the unique Tikka recoil lug. And to reiterate, I glue in the recoil lug permanently.

Here is the thread where Al and many other nice people helped me get it right.

Nervous to try Bedding a Tikka

I'm going to take my first stab at bedding and I'm getting a case of the yips/nerves. I have read so much information and watched so many videos that my head is kind of spinning. I'm having a hard time deciding which methods or tips to go with. Is there an end all be all video on bedding? Or a...

forum.accurateshooter.com

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Not sure what your deal is on the recoil lug and extra space. As long as you firmly push the action to rear when tightening the front action screw then you are gtg. Kinda like mounting a scope with picatinny interfaces.

Your barrel inlet at the forend is out of wack in the pic but assume this is because action not secured squarely?

Grind a tad off the tip of the sling stud. No big deal.

The rear tang would make me send back. it is not a fitment issue but paint shortage. Bummer.

Mr Stocky says no bedding needed. He said his CF compound has same hardness as alum. Mine shoots sub moa at distance non bedded.

The metal at the tang is supposed to sit about 3\16 below the stock? I sure hope not.

There is nothing wrong with the barrel inletting. It must be the photo. The action is torqued to 40.

In my mind, a recoil lug should not be able to move. It doesn't move in the 3 factory stock or the 2 KRG bravo. My old stock had the aluminum one which had become dented. It too did not move. I epoxied in the steel one so it would not get dented.

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Yes, use a Dremel to make sure the recoil lug is floating when everything is mudded up. The key is to use spacers in the pillars, so the action screws are exactly centered. This centers everything.

My first Tikka bedding job was a horrible mess when I left the recoil lug recess unaltered. My action screws were not centered at all. That was because the unaltered recoil lug recess constricted the whole system.

Basically this is the stress free method of bedding but with a twist because of the unique Tikka recoil lug. And to reiterate, I glue in the recoil lug permanently.

Here is the thread where Al and many other nice people helped me get it right.

Nervous to try Bedding a Tikka

I'm going to take my first stab at bedding and I'm getting a case of the yips/nerves. I have read so much information and watched so many videos that my head is kind of spinning. I'm having a hard time deciding which methods or tips to go with. Is there an end all be all video on bedding? Or a...

forum.accurateshooter.com

I did not find bedding a Tikka stock to be hard. I just did the lug area and tang instead of full length.

 

[Dimner]

I did not find bedding a Tikka stock to be hard. I just did the lug area and tang instead of full length.
View attachment 1542018

Very nice looking. Before I bedded my tikkas, I had never even mixed epoxy putty before. It was definitely out side of my comfort set. I have more of a traditional wood working background (rasps, hand planes, and chisels) and Its been very slow going learning home gunsmithing.

 

[RabbitSlayer]

Very nice looking. Before I bedded my tikkas, I had never even mixed epoxy putty before. It was definitely out side of my comfort set. I have more of a traditional wood working background (rasps, hand planes, and chisels) and Its been very slow going learning home gunsmithing.

Ahhh I see. I have bedded like 10 rifles. Last time I did pillars and bedded the trigger guard too. I also made a mess the first couple times.