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New to Reloading - Advice on Setup

Well, Thanks everyone. Very helpful. I decided to repurpose the sewing table for something else and start with a clean sheet. Here’s what I got so far:
IMG_3723.jpeg
The sides rest on steel angle iron into the wall studs and I mounted a blem 1-3/4 bench top from an industrial supply house. Seems plenty sturdy. I also ordered a flush mount from Inline Fab. I’ve never used a router before, so that might be an install adventure. The final dimensions are 41” wide by 36” deep. Next question guys, Where do I mount it? I’m right handed, so I’m thinking off to the right. Any thoughts on how much room to leave from the right wall? I don’t really want to mount it in the middle because the base plate extends 1-1/2” from the front edge and that could make it uncomfortable to use the space for other purposes. Thoughts?
 
Well, Thanks everyone. Very helpful. I decided to repurpose the sewing table for something else and start with a clean sheet. Here’s what I got so far:
View attachment 1523367
The sides rest on steel angle iron into the wall studs and I mounted a blem 1-3/4 bench top from an industrial supply house. Seems plenty sturdy. I also ordered a flush mount from Inline Fab. I’ve never used a router before, so that might be an install adventure. The final dimensions are 41” wide by 36” deep. Next question guys, Where do I mount it? I’m right handed, so I’m thinking off to the right. Any thoughts on how much room to leave from the right wall? I don’t really want to mount it in the middle because the base plate extends 1-1/2” from the front edge and that could make it uncomfortable to use the space for other purposes. Thoughts?
Looks great! Go 6” and you’ll be fine….. did you get inline fab plate?
 
Your new bench top looks great. The rubber floor mat is a must, not only for standing, but to prevent damage to flooring and tooling that will fall or roll off the bench top. A dropped die will put nasty dings in your nice floor otherwise. And if you step on a spent primer, it will leave a divot imprint in your floor too. As for mounting it, I'd mount it about 1/3rd away from the wall to the side you will be using your arm to operate it. Right side for right handed, etc. If you mount in the middle, you won't have enough room for your scale, loading block and such. I'd probably still mount your press to a piece of 2x8 wood (recess the wood for mounting bolts on the bottom with a spade drill bit or forstner bit), then use c-clamps to hold it in place.

Another option (I use) is to place your 2x8 mounting piece or aluminum plate or what you opt for (with the press attached) onto the bench where you would like to use it and temporarily clamp it to the work top, drill four spaced holes through the top of the mounting piece and through the work bench at one time with a 1/8" drill bit, Remove the mounting piece and press, then drill appropriately-sized holes into the bench top to insert either 1/4" inside diameter threaded t-nuts or threaded wood inserts (can get at home depot) into the work top. You can get plastic knobs with 1/4" threaded bolts attached to them to secure the mounting piece to the work bench. You will need to drill out the 1/8" holes in the mounting piece to approximately 3/8" to allow good clearance for the knob bolts to pass through. The benefit of this is you just unscrew the four knobs when you want to remove your press - and the c-clamps are not necessary. Also, say you want to have other things you want to mount to the bench temporarily, like a primer pocket swager or such, you can make another mounting piece for it and drill the same hole pattern in it, easily mounting and dismounting various items without drilling more holes. Regarding sitting or standing - I'd suggest doing your sizing and bullet seating while standing. I have tried stools of various heights, etc. - and they never work out for that. Sizing is best done while being behind the press and press handles can also get in the way of being comfortably seated - and effectively using the press. Thats me though.

Lastly, go online and buy a steel drawer or two that you can mount to the bottom of your bench top. Specialty stores that cater to woodworkers carry them. That will keep your small tools off the top of your workbench when not used, yet handy when needed.
 
I think you will want a shelf at eyeball height for your scale and trickler, assuming you use them. I am right handed and I work left to right. I have a loading block with primed brass to the left of the press. I weigh powder and charge them, then seat the bullets and put them in a block or box to the right of the press so I would leave enough room to the right of the press for finished ammo.
Others have a different procedure so just think about your work flow when laying it out.
 
Your new bench top looks great. The rubber floor mat is a must, not only for standing, but to prevent damage to flooring and tooling that will fall or roll off the bench top. A dropped die will put nasty dings in your nice floor otherwise. And if you step on a spent primer, it will leave a divot imprint in your floor too. As for mounting it, I'd mount it about 1/3rd away from the wall to the side you will be using your arm to operate it. Right side for right handed, etc. If you mount in the middle, you won't have enough room for your scale, loading block and such. I'd probably still mount your press to a piece of 2x8 wood (recess the wood for mounting bolts on the bottom with a spade drill bit or forstner bit), then use c-clamps to hold it in place.

Another option (I use) is to place your 2x8 mounting piece or aluminum plate or what you opt for (with the press attached) onto the bench where you would like to use it and temporarily clamp it to the work top, drill four spaced holes through the top of the mounting piece and through the work bench at one time with a 1/8" drill bit, Remove the mounting piece and press, then drill appropriately-sized holes into the bench top to insert either 1/4" inside diameter threaded t-nuts or threaded wood inserts (can get at home depot) into the work top. You can get plastic knobs with 1/4" threaded bolts attached to them to secure the mounting piece to the work bench. You will need to drill out the 1/8" holes in the mounting piece to approximately 3/8" to allow good clearance for the knob bolts to pass through. The benefit of this is you just unscrew the four knobs when you want to remove your press - and the c-clamps are not necessary. Also, say you want to have other things you want to mount to the bench temporarily, like a primer pocket swager or such, you can make another mounting piece for it and drill the same hole pattern in it, easily mounting and dismounting various items without drilling more holes. Regarding sitting or standing - I'd suggest doing your sizing and bullet seating while standing. I have tried stools of various heights, etc. - and they never work out for that. Sizing is best done while being behind the press and press handles can also get in the way of being comfortably seated - and effectively using the press. Thats me though.

Lastly, go online and buy a steel drawer or two that you can mount to the bottom of your bench top. Specialty stores that cater to woodworkers carry them. That will keep your small tools off the top of your workbench when not used, yet handy when needed.
Great suggestions. I hadn't thought about drawers, but that would be ideal. Also, mounting to a 2x8 would give me flexibility until I really understand how I want to configure the space.
 
I think you will want a shelf at eyeball height for your scale and trickler, assuming you use them. I am right handed and I work left to right. I have a loading block with primed brass to the left of the press. I weigh powder and charge them, then seat the bullets and put them in a block or box to the right of the press so I would leave enough room to the right of the press for finished ammo.
Others have a different procedure so just think about your work flow when laying it out.
Thanks!
 
That turned out nice man! A small affordable bottom box on rollers would serve you well for storage before, during, and after reloading processes.
 

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