How do you lube your brass?

[mram10]

I use oneshot, resize then clean off brass in tray of acetone.

 

[Timberyote]

I like and have used Lee Case Lube and any issues I've had with was down to me not using enough.

I generally don't wipe them after sizing but sometimes do. No issues with buildup in the chamber or dies, although I do clean the dies.

Using this stuff for over 40 years.

 

[MrK.]

I use lanolin/ alcohol mix. First I briefly tumble to remove grit then I put up to 50 cases in an empty Cascade dishwasher pod tub. It has a folding lid that closes reasonably well. Just spray and shake then spray and shake then let dry. I always try and get some into case necks. After sizing they go back into the tumbler to remove lube and polish. I used to use One-shot in a loading block but got tired of my blocks being sticky. Before that I used RCBS lube in a squirt bottle and an old ink pad. I've never stuck a case.

 

[Webster]

I use lanolin/ alcohol mix. First I briefly tumble to remove grit then I put up to 50 cases in an empty Cascade dishwasher pod tub. It has a folding lid that closes reasonably well. Just spray and shake then spray and shake then let dry. I always try and get some into case necks. After sizing they go back into the tumbler to remove lube and polish. I used to use One-shot in a loading block but got tired of my blocks being sticky. Before that I used RCBS lube in a squirt bottle and an old ink pad. I've never stuck a case.View attachment 1513691

The original post was 9 years ago. How many this is how I do it do you need?

 

[MrK.]

The original post was 9 years ago. How many this is how I do it do you need?

You mad bro?

 

[Wild Bill IV]

For all you reloaders using lanolin, you should check physical and chemical properties!!! Lanolin is also known as wool wax or wool oil!
1. Lanolin is not soluble meaning water will not remove it!!!
2. Flash point of lanolin is 460°.
3. Fire fighting hazards:
a. Highly combustible!!!
b. Vapors from fire are acidic!!! From college chemistry, most vertebrae animals have STEARIC ACIDS in the their fat and oils!!!

NOTE: Check your spray on lubes!!!!! If it says non petroleum based lube, it is either made with animal or vegetable oils or fat!!!

Recommendation: Use a degreaser (dish soap and really hot water). Rinse in hot water!!! Shake as much water out of the brass. Dehydrate with Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). Allow the alcohol to vaporize in a well ventilated area far away from any heat source or flame!!!! DO NOT DRY THEM IN THE OVEN, YOU COULD BLOW THE DOOR OFF!!! AFTER THAT, YOU HAVE TO FACE THE MISSES!!!!! You could be giving up the guns or thrown out the door!!!

Special note: Alcohol fires have almost invisible flames!!!!!

 

[Reloadernoob]

I’ve tried just about every lube on the market, Imperial wax as well as the lanolin mix, and what I use now is 1 ½ oz of Hornady LIQUID one shot (not the wasteful aerosol) $5 at Midway, mixed with 12 oz of red Iso-Heet $2 at Walmart. The liquid does not affect primers or powder, no post-lube cleaning required. Just a couple sprays in a ziplock bag, shake, let the alcohol evaporate for 15 minutes, and reload. Leaves a nice slick (NOT sticky) coating on the brass that stays for weeks stored in another ziplock. How I came about this is another story, but everyone who has tried this agrees it works great.

 

[Wild Bill IV]

I'm old fashioned!!! Look on the lower right corner of pic!!! Got this bottle of Bonanza Case lube over 45 years ago with the Bonanza co ax press!! Have not used any things else. Never had any hard to form problems or withdrawal from dies EVER!!!! This bottle and the RCBS lube pad have seen over 12000 loads!! And I still have over a third of a bottle left!!! One $3.00 bottle will last my lifetime of reloading!!! I use acetone to degrease!!! Acetone evaporates rather quickly!!!

 

[HighlandLofts]

I like it when an old post gets new life instead of another new post on an old subject.