@ljmontano listen to what Kevin has to say..It's been a while, but back in the day I had several and some shoot very well.
IMHO the installation instructions provided with them are not usable. The 2000 series actions are very temperamental, and if you want performance to repeat between barrels (if you intend to test and use several - one of the strengths of this action) you need to be exceptionally OCD regarding setup variables. Headspace, clamping torque values, clamping screw lubrication and tennon cleanliness are several of them.
Lilja recommends tightening the central setscrew (that bears against the bottom of the tennon) first, while the clamping screws are loose, creating a stress concentration when the action is clamped which again IMHO is never a good thing. Personally, I remove the setscrew and never install it again (ever). They also recommend an installation clamping screw torque of something like 8nm (about 70 in lbs) - which is exceptionally high. The tennon should be fit precisely - using a light press fit, to limit the amount of torque the clamping screws need to simply close the gap and contact it. And if the action is bedded, tennon diameter is also critical there - the clamped corner of the action will lift or drop as the tennon diameters vary.
From all of the testing I did on this action (I used them for a very, very long time, having purchased one of the first that landed in the USA), a clamping screw torque of 3 to 4nm worked well. It is a variable that merits testing from the bench.
PS.....the very first prototypes were not the silver / nickel coated versions, they were chrome moly steel and blued. I have one of those also! It's pretty darn good looking, even if dated by todays RF standards.
I hope this helps,
kev
It's been a while, but back in the day I had several and some shoot very well.
IMHO the installation instructions provided with them are not usable. The 2000 series actions are very temperamental, and if you want performance to repeat between barrels (if you intend to test and use several - one of the strengths of this action) you need to be exceptionally OCD regarding setup variables. Headspace, clamping torque values, clamping screw lubrication and tennon cleanliness are several of them.
Lilja recommends tightening the central setscrew (that bears against the bottom of the tennon) first, while the clamping screws are loose, creating a stress concentration when the action is clamped which again IMHO is never a good thing. Personally, I remove the setscrew and never install it again (ever). They also recommend an installation clamping screw torque of something like 8nm (about 70 in lbs) - which is exceptionally high. The tennon should be fit precisely - using a light press fit, to limit the amount of torque the clamping screws need to simply close the gap and contact it. And if the action is bedded, tennon diameter is also critical there - the clamped corner of the action will lift or drop as the tennon diameters vary.
From all of the testing I did on this action (I used them for a very, very long time, having purchased one of the first that landed in the USA), a clamping screw torque of 3 to 4nm worked well. It is a variable that merits testing from the bench.
PS.....the very first prototypes were not the silver / nickel coated versions, they were chrome moly steel and blued. I have one of those also! It's pretty darn good looking, even if dated by todays RF standards.
I hope this helps,
kev
Please check your PMIt's been a while, but back in the day I had several and some shoot very well.
IMHO the installation instructions provided with them are not usable. The 2000 series actions are very temperamental, and if you want performance to repeat between barrels (if you intend to test and use several - one of the strengths of this action) you need to be exceptionally OCD regarding setup variables. Headspace, clamping torque values, clamping screw lubrication and tennon cleanliness are several of them.
Lilja recommends tightening the central setscrew (that bears against the bottom of the tennon) first, while the clamping screws are loose, creating a stress concentration when the action is clamped which again IMHO is never a good thing. Personally, I remove the setscrew and never install it again (ever). They also recommend an installation clamping screw torque of something like 8nm (about 70 in lbs) - which is exceptionally high. The tennon should be fit precisely - using a light press fit, to limit the amount of torque the clamping screws need to simply close the gap and contact it. And if the action is bedded, tennon diameter is also critical there - the clamped corner of the action will lift or drop as the tennon diameters vary.
From all of the testing I did on this action (I used them for a very, very long time, having purchased one of the first that landed in the USA), a clamping screw torque of 3 to 4nm worked well. It is a variable that merits testing from the bench.
PS.....the very first prototypes were not the silver / nickel coated versions, they were chrome moly steel and blued. I have one of those also! It's pretty darn good looking, even if dated by todays RF standards.
I hope this helps,
kev
Among the earliest 2007/2013 models may have been what's referred to in the 1990s as the Anschutz BR-50 rifle. It had a muzzle weight on the 500mm (about 19.7") barrel. It wasn't a tuner in the sense that it was adjustable.Kev,
Sorry to get off track but your post brought back lots of history/ memories.
Back when the California guys( Chernicky I think) did a major article for PS magazine, early 90’s, when rim thickness/ headspace was the deal, I reached out and discovered they brought over 10-12 2007’s, barreled actions only and agreed to sell me one which ended up with one of Dan’s drop in’s.
It was interesting because while the WLM lays claim to tuners, this came with a clamp on, non adjustable tuner that was also slotted to locate on a pin set in the barrel, about 1” back. Tommy Meredith bedded it and if you didn't screw up the clamping it shot pretty good.
This was not for sight radius, zero provision for sight mounting, and it worked on the 19” ( as I recall) barrel, it was a true tuner. I suspect German engineers were not taking ques from Kentucky
Did you ever hear of these things?
You have too much stuff. Sell that 40x back to me and you won't have so much.Looking at buying a drop in Lilja barrel for my Anschutz 2013 BR. If your shooting one what kind of accuracy are you getting?
Any info good or bad will be appreciated
I don’t know about that 2013 action but that car in the background looks damn fast
Sir wouldn’t happen to have the tenon diagram for the cone tenon for the 2013?
I have a 2013 and I’m just curious what you torque your 4 action screws to?