Usage of redding dry neck lube

[longrangeprecisionshooter]

I understand the purpose of Redding's dry llneck lube is applying before neck sizing and/or expand the neck.

I am wondering if there would be any problem if I apply some dry neck lube before I charge the powder to seat bullet more smoothly?

I do wet tumbling then dry the case via a dryer, the rust inside the brass neck makes the seating process sometime is difficult to push down the press handle or not smooth. Is there anything I could do or apply inside neck? I only do 0.002 neck tension after expanding.

Thank you.

 

[6MMsteve]

I understand the purpose of Redding's dry llneck lube is applying before neck sizing and/or expand the neck.

I am wondering if there would be any problem if I apply some dry neck lube before I charge the powder to seat bullet more smoothly?

I do wet tumbling then dry the case via a dryer, the rust inside the brass neck makes the seating process sometime is difficult to push doen the press handle or not smooth. Is there anything I could do or apply inside neck? I only do 0.002 neck tension after expanding.

Thank you.

I dip my bullets in Redding dry lube then seat, It may be wrong but it wrks for me,,a Qtip works also, swirl it around the inside of nk then seat the bullet

 

[M-61]

, the rust inside the brass neck

Ok. How’s that possible?

 

[nettle]

I use the Redding lube. I use a Q-tip on every fifth case.

 

[Konocti's Wigwam]

I don't like to use anything that will come in contact with the powder. I use the dry when resizing, and have used Imperial also, both seem to work fine, but dry is less mess. I clean my cases after though.

 

[nettle]

Long before Redding came out with their neck lube (1960's) we were using Motor Mica. Lyman didn't own Motor Mica at that time. Both the Redding and Motor Mica work very well.

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-7991415-Motor-Mica-Refill/dp/B000N8N330

 

[6MMsteve]

Long before Redding came out with their neck lube (1960's) we were using Motor Mica. Lyman didn't own Motor Mica at that time. Both the Redding and Motor Mica work very well.

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-7991415-Motor-Mica-Refill/dp/B000N8N330

I used Mica in the mid 80's, had the little box with brushes

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I used Mica in the mid 80's, had the little box with brushes

https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/case-neck-graphiter/
Forster has this product now.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I am wondering if there would be any problem if I apply some dry neck lube before I charge the powder to seat bullet more smoothly?

Yes you can dip the case neck in the dry lube with the ceramic beads. I do this and then run a neck brush in and out. Wipe off neck with towel the tap neck on loading tray to get any excess out.
I have recently switched to 21st Century moly lube and it seems a little more smoother, but more messy to deal with. I suppose the Forster product above would be the cleanest product to work with.

 

[6MMsteve]

https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/case-neck-graphiter/
Forster has this product now.

I have the Redding kit I bought in 2015 I've used bout 1/10 of it

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I used Mica in the mid 80's, had the little box with brushes

Did you like this kit and method of applying the moto-mica?

 

[6MMsteve]

Did you like this kit and method of applying the moto-mica?

that was back when I first started reloading.....I really had no clue... my friend got it for me he said use it...when I first started soft seating in 1986 and playing with nk tension I kinda grasp a little, but after 1988 I quit shooting for 27 yrs

 

[nettle]

I had the kit (still do). A Q-tip works just as well.

 

[Jarhead6870]

I insert the case neck into the coated beads and give it a twist back and forth. I then wipe the “outside” of the neck with a paper towel leaving the inside as is; lightly coated with the dry lube. I then charge the case with powder, place a bullet in the neck mouth and seat. It definitively makes seating more consistent for me.

 

[LHSmith]

My first preference for inside neck lube is the powder fouling left in the neck after firing. But you must run a nylon brush through shortly after firing to eliminate hard carbon build up. When I do use Reddings graphite lube (usually on new cases) I dip the neck and then drop the powder. Make sure the neck is dry so that those ceramic balls do not adhere to the case. I have also used motor mica on a Bonanza tool with different size brushes. I tend to use the Redding product more.

 

[One Eye Pete]

In most cases the residual carbon left in the neck provides enough lube however after cleaning oe annealing sometimes bullet seating can be a bit rough.
I‘be tried all different methods of getting some lube on the inside of the case necks to make bullet seating smoother. The quickest and most effective way I’ve found is moly powder (available on eBay) mixed into 91% rubbing alcohol. You need very little moly in the alcohol as it disperses very well. I dip the tip of a bore mop in it and lightly swab the inside of the necks. I can do 10 to 15 cases before I have to re dip the mop. Since it is liquid as it goes on there is no dust and moly seems to have a better affinity for the brass than graphite. The coating dries really fast is very uniform and stays in place when the powder is added to the case. Even if I expand the necks after applying the moly there is still enough residual left for smooth bullet seating. The trick is to use it sparingly after a while you get the hang of it and there is very little mess.
The other advantage of moly is that if you need to change seating depth on ammo that was loaded a while ago it is still easy to move the bullet. I have had no problems with moly building op in the barrel but then I clean after every trip to the range I don’t like carbon or copper build up either.

 

[longrangeprecisionshooter]

I dip my bullets in Redding dry lube then seat, It may be wrong but it wrks for me,,a Qtip works also, swirl it around the inside of nk then seat the bullet

That's a good idea, better than dip the brass into the dry lube before charge the powder.

 

[longrangeprecisionshooter]

Ok. How’s that possible?

Maybe it's not rust but something looks like rust to me.

Not sure if you can see what's inside the neck from the photo.

I thought that's from the drying process after I went tumble the brass without SS pin.

 

[longrangeprecisionshooter]

Long before Redding came out with their neck lube (1960's) we were using Motor Mica. Lyman didn't own Motor Mica at that time. Both the Redding and Motor Mica work very well.

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-7991415-Motor-Mica-Refill/dp/B000N8N330

Thanks.

Does that mean, there is nothing wrong to apply such neck lube inside the neck for smooth seating?

 

[nettle]

It was just my attempt to let it be known that lubing inside the neck with Motor Mica or Redding has been going on for decades with no ill effect. I use the Redding and lube the inside of the case mouth with a Q-Tip. I can dip and swirl it if I want I just prefer the Q-Tip method.