Redding full length sizer

[DLT]

I got in a new set of redding full length size and standard seater. If I put an oring under the de capping rod and snug down the lock collar down on it will it help it float a little bit ? There is some movement just wiggling it with my hand. Without it, when it’s tightened down the decapper and expander is definitely off center a fuzz it can’t be good pulling back through the case. Thanks for any tips.

 

[RustyInBend]

Is it a Type-S Bushing Die? Do you need a bushing?

 

[RustyInBend]

BTW ... I NEVER use the decapper/expander that comes with the die. That comes out and I use the die for sizing (only). I use a universal Lee decapper for removing primers. That's a way better way to do that.

 

[DLT]

Is it a Type-S Bushing Die? Do you need a bushing?

No. It’s just the standard full length die not the bushing die. It was just a thought I wondered if it would help not pull the neck too bad one way or the other if it could float just a little

 

[RustyInBend]

The FL die directions with mine ways to tighten it down, and then back it off about 1/8 of a turn for just a tiny bit of float. That's what I've always done in my FL dies, with good results. Still recommend losing the decapper and using a dedicated die for that on the front end, and a mandrel die for final size on the back end. I just don't know how for down the "Reloading Rabbit Hole" you want to go.

 

[DLT]

The FL die directions with mine ways to tighten it down, and then back it off about 1/8 of a turn for just a tiny bit of float. That's what I've always done in my FL dies, with good results. Still recommend losing the decapper and using a dedicated die for that on the front end, and a mandrel die for final size on the back end. I just don't know how for down the "Reloading Rabbit Hole" you want to go.

I’m not far from buying a mandrel. Went to price some today and damn they are expensive. My instructions is different than yours. I have a set of competition shell holders I have had put back I’m going to try them out also for fun of it.

 

[AlNyhus]

On my Redding standard dies that use the expander, I use an 'o' ring between decapper/expander assy lock ring and the top of the die. It helps. -Al

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I got in a new set of redding full length size and standard seater. If I put an oring under the de capping rod and snug down the lock collar down on it will it help it float a little bit ? There is some movement just wiggling it with my hand. Without it, when it’s tightened down the decapper and expander is definitely off center a fuzz it can’t be good pulling back through the case. Thanks for any tips.

What caliber?

 

[DLT]

What caliber?

6 creedmoor, no competition shooting

 

[DLT]

On my Redding standard dies that use the expander, I use an 'o' ring between decapper/expander assy lock ring and the top of the die. It helps. -Al

That’s where I put it, I robbed one from work it sure can’t hurt anything. Thanks

 

[Kracken McGraw]

6 creedmoor, no competition shooting

The reason I asked was that you can put the Forster stem in those until you get up to the .264 size then it gets a little more involved.

 

[Bill Norris]

I got in a new set of redding full length size and standard seater. If I put an oring under the de capping rod and snug down the lock collar down on it will it help it float a little bit ? There is some movement just wiggling it with my hand. Without it, when it’s tightened down the decapper and expander is definitely off center a fuzz it can’t be good pulling back through the case. Thanks for any tips.

As mentioned above I would remove the de-capping rod and de-cap with a separate step. Secondly, I found it helps to remove the clip that holds the shell holder in the ram and replace it with a rubber O-ring. This allows the shell holder to "float" in that front to back direction. There is some clearance in the shell holder that allows the case to move side to side.

 

[DLT]

As mentioned above I would remove the de-capping rod and de-cap with a separate step. Secondly, I found it helps to remove the clip that holds the shell holder in the ram and replace it with a rubber O-ring. This allows the shell holder to "float" in that front to back direction. There is some clearance in the shell holder that allows the case to move side to side.

I have a mec marksman it has plenty of movement for the shell holder. I don’t have another way of decapping currently. I can understand why people remove the whole expander and expand with a mandrel but I don’t understand the decap off the press or decap in another operation on the press. The marksman press the primers fall straight through the ram and into a little tray, if it makes a mess I have not seen it

 

[Andy Work]

I’m not far from buying a mandrel. Went to price some today and damn they are expensive. My instructions is different than yours. I have a set of competition shell holders I have had put back I’m going to try them out also for fun of it.

PMA stainless mandrels cost $12.95 each. I forgot how much the mandrel die cost but it was very reasonable.

 

[DLT]

PMA stainless mandrels cost $12.95 each. I forgot how much the mandrel die cost but it was very reasonable.

Seems reasonable, what do you do if you want to go up or down a thou or two to test different neck tensions. ? They don’t offer but the one per caliber it looks like

 

[K22]

I use standard F/L dies only for over 50+ years and they work just fine for my purposes.

Several years ago, I began placing an O ring under the expander assembly nut which allows it to float which helps minimize distorting the neck alignment.

I also polished the expander bullet to a smooth glass like finish which greatly aid passing the expander through the neck without excessive drag.

 

[Andy Work]

Seems reasonable, what do you do if you want to go up or down a thou or two to test different neck tensions. ? They don’t offer but the one per caliber it looks like

I've modified a couple with a drill press and sandpaper, a bit of a pain in the butt. K&M may have what you're looking for.

 

[DLT]

d

I've modified a couple with a drill press and sandpaper, a bit of a pain in the butt. K&M may have what you're looking for.

Thanks for that. I’ll do some checking on them

 

[BoydAllen]

I got in a new set of redding full length size and standard seater. If I put an oring under the de capping rod and snug down the lock collar down on it will it help it float a little bit ? There is some movement just wiggling it with my hand. Without it, when it’s tightened down the decapper and expander is definitely off center a fuzz it can’t be good pulling back through the case. Thanks for any tips.

By the time the expander is in the neck, the case is basically disengaged with the interior of the die, and it can pivot in the shell holder. Forster uses a rubber washer under the decapping rod lock nut, so they must think that it improves something, but their dies have the expander higher on the rod so that the neck is partially in the neck portion of the die, when the expander starts into the neck.

 

[Murray Brook]

If you do decide to change dies and don't want to spend a lot of money you can't do better than going with a Redding body die to size your case and bump the shoulder and a Lee Collet die to decap and size the necks. Your run-out #'s will be great. In fact if you could open the neck of your existing die you could use that die in conjuction with a Lee collet die. JMO