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Loc tite action screws

odie

Silver $$ Contributor
I acquired a rifle that some one loc tited the action screws. Any suggestions on how to remove the screws without buggering them up?
I do not know if they used red or blue.
Thanks in advance
Odie
 
I acquired a rifle that some one loc tited the action screws. Any suggestions on how to remove the screws without buggering them up?
I do not know if they used red or blue.
Thanks in advance
Odie
A soldering iron tip held on the action screw works. If the screws are slot style, make sure to use a tight fitting, straight blade screwdriver tip. If they are Allen head, use a good fitting quality wrench like Eklind or Bondaus. -Al
 
odie,

Straight acetone or nail polish remover if you don't wish to use heat. May take a while and several applications. Works best if you have access to the threaded portion of the screw.

HTH,
DocBII
 
I had to get this one out like so:
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I spot faced the rear action screw area in the bottom metal and used button head Allen cap screws front and rear.
 
One of the issues with those stainless/CM screws and an aluminum trigger guard is the steel screw wants to gall on the aluminum. U need some sort of anti seize or a washer between the two. Getting consistent torque on those screws without any lube or washer is hit n miss at best.
 
Thanks all for responding.
I think someone used loc tight.
I put 120 in pounds on them and they didn't budgei will try all of the suggestions.
Odie
 
I can tell you they will surely gall when the owner mistakes lb./ft for lb./in. when torquing the bottom metal down. o_O He felt bad when he brought it over but left happy. -Al
Al,
my guess would be that a 1/4x28 screw would snap in two if 50 ft/lbs we’re applied. Either that or the allen head would strip out first.

Glad u were successful in getting those action screws removed.

Bob
 
Al,
my guess would be that a 1/4x28 screw would snap in two if 50 ft/lbs we’re applied. Either that or the allen head would strip out first.

Glad u were successful in getting those action screws removed.

Bob
Bob, even a generic grade three 1/4-28 will take more than 50 lbs. Heck, we pick up compete race engines to go on the dyno with just four 5/16" carb mounting bolts holding a plate to the intake and an old serpentine drive belt on the hoist. ;) You're correct...the Allen recess just rolled over.

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U are using those 1/4-28 in a tensile loading not shear. I teach aviation maintenance n the majority of r 1/4x28 bolts are torqued to 50-100 in/lbs. Students don’t pay attention to the specs n pick up a ft/lb torque wrench set to 50 ft/lbs. After I hear the first “snap” I quickly try to prevent the second. Sheared SS bolts in a expensive SS housing is not a job for an amateur with an easy-out.

I also have one of those carb base pulling plates n u are correct, 4 of those 5/16 studs in tension will easily lift a BB Chevy.
 
I gotta be honest…. I have used blue loc tite on every single screw that goes anywhere on a firearm (except cocking pieces) for 20 years.

If you follow the instructions and LET IT DRY first, it’s your friend.

Sounds like they torqued it wet.

I’d heat them with a soldering iron then try until I stripped them, then drill the heads off, use a screw extractor or use a left hand bit and give them a quick snap.
 
where in the instructions does it say to let blue loctite dry first? It works wet and dry I thought.
 
where in the instructions does it say to let blue loctite dry first? It works wet and dry I thought.

The thread locker works both wet and dry, yes. You can use it wet where there is no critical torque value.

The instructions that come with a torque wrench, on the other hand, outline the dangers of wet vs dry torque. That’ll usually come in the instructions for scope rings as well, if the manufacturer doesn’t warn against thread lockers- which some do, because they know not everyone is going to read the instructions.

Not picking at you- that was a good question and I should have been more clear.
 

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