You Are Never Too Old To Screw Up!

[jackieschmidt]

Well, I spent the morning at the Range, I fireformed 15 new cases for the barrel, then tuned it in.

here are the last two groups, shot in two different conditions. I think this barrel was born back in 2006, I had nothing written on it except 13.5 Krieger.

It shoots pretty darned good

 

[urbanrifleman]

I decided to take one of my older Krieger 13.5 twist barrels, chop the thread off, and rechamber it for my LV Farley.

I set it up, reamed the chamber, then turned the tenon, headspaced it, set the cone, and threaded it. When I was almost through with the thread, it dawned on me something wasn’t right.

I had just cut an 18 tpi instead of a 16.

Well cr-p. What to do.

I have a HV Neuvo that is an 18 tpi, so I turned the tenon back to the correct length and headspaced it for the Neuvo. I picked up the previous 18 tpi thread and established the correct 1.060 18 tpi all the way.. It has a gap in the tenon where the Farley thread relief was, but what the heck, everything else came out just right.

I will shoot it tomorrow and see how it does.

So, even someone like me that has been a Machinist for 55+ years can screw up.View attachment 1455382View attachment 1455383View attachment 1455383View attachment 1455384

How do you measure cone depth?

 

[LVLAaron]

 

[LVLAaron]

I had a 1 inch barrel that I wanted to try and beef up the shank on. I cut a 2 inch long sleeve and threaded it to a "machinist fit". Gave it a little torque and some rockset

 

[jackieschmidt]

How do you measure cone depth?

Any time I acquire a new action, I establish all of the critical measurements, usually by trial and error. I have these measurements. Length of tenon, headspace, cone depth, etc recorded to be used with my own tools.

That way, I can make every barrel identical. I go so far as to establish the dimensions for each action so the brass that comes out is identical to all of my other actions in that chambering.

That allows me to use the brass from one rifle in another of the same chamber.

 

[txdan]

Well, I spent the morning at the Range, I fireformed 15 new cases for the barrel, then tuned it in.

here are the last two groups, shot in two different conditions. I think this barrel was born back in 2006, I had nothing written on it except 13.5 Krieger.

It shoots pretty darned goodView attachment 1455500View attachment 1455501View attachment 1455502View attachment 1455503

That will give some people headaches at a
Match.

 

[urbanrifleman]

Any time I acquire a new action, I establish all of the critical measurements, usually by trial and error. I have these measurements. Length of tenon, headspace, cone depth, etc recorded to be used with my own tools.

That way, I can make every barrel identical. I go so far as to establish the dimensions for each action so the brass that comes out is identical to all of my other actions in that chambering.

That allows me to use the brass from one rifle in another of the same chamber.
View attachment 1455576View attachment 1455577

Right. But I am trying to find a good way to measure the cone relative to the bolt face.

 

[Clancy]

@jackieschmidt what did that smaller one measure?

 

[Will Henry]

I started out to tell how to make a nifty gauge which would allow you to measure each action to the cone and cut the tenon and cone accordingly. Truth is though, the easy way is to simply make your tenon length equal to the distance to the bolt face. Then, you cut the cone but leave it way shallow. Now, screw the action onto the barrel, with the bolt closed. When it contacts, measure the gap at the shoulder with a feeler gauge. Cut the cone that much deeper, plus about .005 - .007", and Bob's your uncle. After that, use a gauge like Jackie shows to duplicate the barrel in the future. WH

 

[55fairlane]

Jackie, don't feel bad....some moron was half way thru a threading job when I realized I should be cutting buttress threads, not standard 60 degree v threads.....opps

 

[urbanrifleman]

I started out to tell how to make a nifty gauge which would allow you to measure each action to the cone and cut the tenon and cone accordingly. Truth is though, the easy way is to simply make your tenon length equal to the distance to the bolt face. Then, you cut the cone but leave it way shallow. Now, screw the action onto the barrel, with the bolt closed. When it contacts, measure the gap at the shoulder with a feeler gauge. Cut the cone that much deeper, plus about .005 - .007", and Bob's your uncle. After that, use a gauge like Jackie shows to duplicate the barrel in the future. WH

Ok!!!

Kelbly has a great instruction for cutting their action cones using the micrometer carriage stop. I love my micrometer carriage stop. I use it for everything with my DRO.

 

[itchyTF]

Well, I spent the morning at the Range, I fireformed 15 new cases for the barrel, then tuned it in.

here are the last two groups, shot in two different conditions. I think this barrel was born back in 2006, I had nothing written on it except 13.5 Krieger.

It shoots pretty darned goodView attachment 1455500View attachment 1455501View attachment 1455502View attachment 1455503

Maybe you should cut all your threads like that!

 

[jackieschmidt]

Ok!!!

Kelbly has a great instruction for cutting their action cones using the micrometer carriage stop. I love my micrometer carriage stop. I use it for everything with my DRO.

the actual Cutting of the cone is not the problem.

Knowing what the exact depth is when starting from scratch Can be a problem which is why many of us, through trial and error, arrive at a correct dimension and of course, an accurate way to measure it that can be repeated on subsequent barrels.

Most Understand that the idea is to never go any deeper than necessary to avoid uncovering the case head web, and not so shallow that it causes interference with the bolt closing.

I suppose .005/.007 inch nose clearance is what most agree on.

 

[urbanrifleman]

the actual Cutting of the cone is not the problem.

Knowing what the exact depth is when starting from scratch Can be a problem which is why many of us, through trial and error, arrive at a correct dimension and of course, an accurate way to measure it.

Most Understand that the idea is to never go any deeper than necessary to avoid uncovering the case head web, and not so shallow that it causes interference with the bolt closing.

I suppose .005/.007 inch nose clearance is what most agree on.

I get it now. Thanks!!

 

[Will Henry]

I suppose one could make up a set of gauges to eliminate the cut and try from the job, but the cut and try is so easy that the 2 hours wasted making gauges hardly seems worth it. A real good salesman could probably sell four of them to the tool junkies. I don't have a micrometer stop but do have a dial gauge mount which I use in a similar way. A digital readout would be great but I don't see one in my future. WH

 

[paperpuncher]

I put my thread pitch gauges in the drawer with my fishtail I make a habit of verifying every thread pitch with a scratch cut I used to think this was a waste of time but it’s too way to set something wrong and not notice you aren’t getting what you want.

 

[Judd]

Well, I spent the morning at the Range, I fireformed 15 new cases for the barrel, then tuned it in.

here are the last two groups, shot in two different conditions. I think this barrel was born back in 2006, I had nothing written on it except 13.5 Krieger.

It shoots pretty darned goodView attachment 1455500View attachment 1455501

I wanna screw up more often like that

 

[ebb]

I served an apprenticeship in the 1970s and was told by more than one of the journeyman I worked under that every one screws up, but a guy that has his act together will fix his screw up before anyone else sees it

 

[Mudcat]

I am 52 and my old man is 75. we are spending the next 3 days in my shop playing with the mill and lathe. between us we have about 90 yrs of experience and there is a good chance we are going to F something up this weekend. But then, thats part of the fun and both of us are still learning, even after all of these years. He spent his last 15 years teaching the apprentices and now spends his shop time teaching me.

 

[Henryrifle]

@jackieschmidt I wish you could teach me to screw up like that and get similar results. Very nice recovery!

Hank