Carbon ring?

[SeabeeKen]

If you shoot a gun you will get fit cracking. Don't freak out. As a name benchrest gunsmith told me , your accuracy comes from the last 10 inches of the barrel. I think that is correct.

Not freaking out at all. I just noticed the start of it in his throat. Now worries. I have some much worse than that

 

[MagnumW]

The bit between neck and throat should come out pretty easy. Try rotating an ar type chamber brush in there - you don’t want to rotate anything reaching the lands just the neck area of chamber. I would bump up another size in brush.

 

[tthomp302]

Alright got it all out. Did the process a few more times and stepped up to a 8mm sized bronze brush. Now for future reference I won’t let it get this far. I’ll definitely pay attention and only trim just enough to fit the chamber.

 

[JimSC]

after each range session on my centerfires I take a pistol rod with a bore mop soaked in C4 and let it sit for a half hour or so inserted into the throat. I don't ever need to brush

 

[tthomp302]

after each range session on my centerfires I take a pistol rod with a bore mop soaked in C4 and let it sit for a half hour or so inserted into the throat. I don't ever need to brush

That’s a good idea for preventative maintenance there.

 

[dmoran]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1st picture below is with a piece of brass in the chamber, showing the end of the case mouth, the end of the chamber, and beginning of the free-bore, before cleaning/removing the carbon build up/ring:

This next picture below is after some cleaning of the area, again with the case in place:

This 3rd picture is the same, but with the case removed:

At this point the chamber-end is clean & carbon free, with a square transition up to the free-bore, no longer a rounded transition formed from carbon layer (aka: carbon ring).
The area in the picture is like 85% cleaned & carbon free. What is left to be cleaned in the picture is the remaining heavily carbon layered beginning of the free-bore, where the cracking of the carbon layer itself still remains, that can be easily seen in the photo (and of course the rest of the free-bore/throat and bore not in the picture).

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Shinbone]

Alright got it all out. Did the process a few more times and stepped up to a 8mm sized bronze brush. Now for future reference I won’t let it get this far. I’ll definitely pay attention and only trim just enough to fit the chamber.

Nicely done! Photos of the removal process are very helpful, too.

 

[Dimner]

Any tips on how to get the Teslong scope to focus so well? Is it as simple as just messing with how far you screw in the mirror? I can get mind to come into about 80% of that focus.

 

[tthomp302]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1st picture below is with a piece of brass in the chamber, showing the end of the case mouth, the end of the chamber, and beginning of the free-bore, before cleaning/removing the carbon build up/ring:

This next picture below is after some cleaning of the area, again with the case in place:

This 3rd picture is the same, but with the case removed:

At this point the chamber-end is clean & carbon free, with a square transition up to the free-bore, no longer a rounded transition formed from carbon layer (aka: carbon ring).
The area in the picture is like 85% cleaned & carbon free. What is left to be cleaned in the picture is the remaining heavily carbon layered beginning of the free-bore, where the cracking of the carbon layer itself still remains, that can be easily seen in the photo (and of course the rest of the free-bore/throat and bore not in the picture).

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How do you go about attacking the carbon in the freebore area?

 

[tthomp302]

Any tips on how to get the Teslong scope to focus so well? Is it as simple as just messing with how far you screw in the mirror? I can get mind to come into about 80% of that focus.

So I watched F-Class John’s video about the teslong. For my 7mm I screwed it all the way in and came out about 2-3 turns and checked the focus then just played with it until it got where I was happy with it.

 

[dmoran]

How do you go about attacking the carbon in the freebore area?

Solvent + bore-brush(s) + patch scrubbings +++ elbow grease !.!.!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[mike711]

Any tips on how to get the Teslong scope to focus so well? Is it as simple as just messing with how far you screw in the mirror? I can get mind to come into about 80% of that focus.

Here's another thought that might help with focus. Choosing a mirror diameter closer to the bore size helped me quite a bit.

Teslong 5-Mirror Set

This is a five-piece side-view borescope mirror set for our NTG100 series rifle borescopes. This set includes one of each size for .20, .243, .30, .38, & .40 caliber barrels. Caliber-specific mirrors focus better & see more for faster firearm barrel inspections. Go to Teslong for all your gun...

teslong.com

 

[Straightshooter1]

So I watched F-Class John’s video about the teslong. For my 7mm I screwed it all the way in and came out about 2-3 turns and checked the focus then just played with it until it got where I was happy with it.

Get some Flitz Bore Cleaner and use it on patch wrapped around a bore brush. It only takes a few strokes, depending on how much carbon is built up. Do so, and I think you'll be amazed.

 

[B23]

Get some Flitz Bore Cleaner and use it on patch wrapped around a bore brush. It only takes a few strokes, depending on how much carbon is built up. Do so, and I think you'll be amazed.

I know quite a few use that or JB bore paste but the idea of using something with an abrasive in it always makes me a little nervous, especially, on a new custom barrel. Anything with an abrasive in it most likely will certainly speed up the process of removing a carbon ring versus any of the other cleaners that don't have abrasives in it.

 

[qldreloader]

after each range session on my centerfires I take a pistol rod with a bore mop soaked in C4 and let it sit for a half hour or so inserted into the throat. I don't ever need to brush

G'day Jim, I managed to get some C4 last week. It's hard to come by here in Australia. Do you use an oversize bore mop or a standard size for calibre when soaking the throat?

 

[tthomp302]

Solvent + bore-brush(s) + patch scrubbings +++ elbow grease !.!.!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

My normal cleaning is I push 2 patches soaked with butch’s bore shine through and let that soak for about 15 mins. Then I run a bronze brush for about 20 strokes. I think run dry patches until clean and then flush with 91% alcohol soaked patches. I’m surprised I’m not cleaning the freebore area when I do this.

 

[JimSC]

G'day Jim, I managed to get some C4 last week. It's hard to come by here in Australia. Do you use an oversize bore mop or a standard size for calibre when soaking the throat?

just a standard. C4 is all I use on my rimfires, do the soak, then run one patch down the bore followed by 3 or 4 dry ones. On centerfires I will do the wet/dry patch routine a couple of times then follow that with a good copper cleaner such as Proshot. Seems to work better than any cleaning routine I have ever used

 

[Straightshooter1]

I know quite a few use that or JB bore paste but the idea of using something with an abrasive in it always makes me a little nervous, especially, on a new custom barrel. Anything with an abrasive in it most likely will certainly speed up the process of removing a carbon ring versus any of the other cleaners that don't have abrasives in it.

The Flitz doesn't; have the abrasive like JB has:

 

[RegionRat]

The Flitz doesn't; have the abrasive like JB has:

The word "Flitz" used to mean a metal polish that did contain sub micron alumina.

Nowadays, the word "Flitz" applies to more than a dozen products that are all different, including the one Shtaightshooter1 is pointing out. So, pay attention when shopping the key words.

 

[qldreloader]

just a standard. C4 is all I use on my rimfires, do the soak, then run one patch down the bore followed by 3 or 4 dry ones. On centerfires I will do the wet/dry patch routine a couple of times then follow that with a good copper cleaner such as Proshot. Seems to work better than any cleaning routine I have ever used

Thanks mate. Appreciate the advice. I'm trying to cut down on the bronze brushing so this will assist.