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Just another to nut or not to nut

A buddy asked me to rebarrel his 80s windage Savage in 30-06 with the same cartridge for hunting. I had the barrel chucked up, unfortunately, for awhile and paused (I had restrictions for both eyes cataract surgeries) and now waiting for him to come with his receiver.

He wanted a nut retained, a nut he gets.

However, the nut is now the shoulder for the recoil lug, and the tapered front of the nut bears against the tenon shallow shoulder. Once I get the receiver I will set the headspace, and torque the system.

If I could not get it to shoot, I will just turn down the tenon shoulder to the nut's non-threaded ID and torque the nut conventionally like any Savage.

We'll see what happens.

Thoughts?

20230407_175714.jpg20230407_175635.jpg20230407_215856.jpg
 
Please tell us more on that lathe chuck setup!

I haven't seen one like that before.

Is that a split ring around the barrel?

As far as the nut holding the recoil lug, yeah. That's why the threads on the Savage barrels are so long.
Ground recoil lug and strip the receiver to face it off if he's sending it to you would be my recommendation.
It's what i have done with my Savages.
 
If I follow, you're going to true both the nut faces- with length of the nut setting the headspace(?).
Interesting idea. Rather than just rely on the skinny face of the nut against the barrel shoulder alone, I'd probably use Rocksett to lock the nut in place against it making the nut more of a permanent shoulder.

Shilen uses a different concept (Alternut)

Shilen Alternut.jpg

Pretty sure there's at least one or two more options that allow for use of heavier contour barrels/shanks, different ways to skin this cat.

Let us know how this works out.
 
If I follow, you're going to true both the nut faces- with length of the nut setting the headspace(?).
Interesting idea. Rather than just rely on the skinny face of the nut against the barrel shoulder alone, I'd probably use Rocksett to lock the nut in place against it making the nut more of a permanent shoulder.

Shilen uses a different concept (Alternut)

View attachment 1429971

Pretty sure there's at least one or two more options that allow for use of heavier contour barrels/shanks, different ways to skin this cat.

Let us know how this works out.
Length of the nut doesn't matter for headspacing.
Your still setting the headspace by the depth the barrel screws into the action.
You just need enough thread on the barrel to allow the barrel to go deep enough into the receiver with the nut & recoil lug taken into account.
The nut just tightens the barrel to the receiver.
 
Please tell us more on that lathe chuck setup!

I haven't seen one like that before.

Is that a split ring around the barrel?

As far as the nut holding the recoil lug, yeah. That's why the threads on the Savage barrels are so long.
Ground recoil lug and strip the receiver to face it off if he's sending it to you would be my recommendation.
It's what i have done with my Savages.

The 1 inch ring is a shaft collar that I just bore the IDs for different shank, then split. Add: I radius the IDs somewhat to allow the barrel to gimbal.
 
Here is the link for those rings.

 
Please tell us more on that lathe chuck setup!

I haven't seen one like that before.

Is that a split ring around the barrel?

As far as the nut holding the recoil lug, yeah. That's why the threads on the Savage barrels are so long.
Ground recoil lug and strip the receiver to face it off if he's sending it to you would be my recommendation.
It's what i have done with my Savages.

Owner is just across town, I am just a hobbyist, when I do work for friends on their serial numbered pieces, they bring them over when I need them, they leave with the barreled receiver.

Yes, I intend to face off the receiver, and the lug. Maybe get an aftermarket one, if they are available.
 
I think its the best nut out there

Thanks, Dusty.

We'll see how this works. Buddy plans to take it to CO when we go after Elk. 60 ft-lbs torque to hopefully stays together when temp dips to this cold. Rifles stay out in the truck. Any suggestion on torque?
20221027_215906.jpg
 
If I follow, you're going to true both the nut faces- with length of the nut setting the headspace(?).
Interesting idea. Rather than just rely on the skinny face of the nut against the barrel shoulder alone, I'd probably use Rocksett to lock the nut in place against it making the nut more of a permanent shoulder.

Shilen uses a different concept (Alternut)

View attachment 1429971

Pretty sure there's at least one or two more options that allow for use of heavier contour barrels/shanks, different ways to skin this cat.

Let us know how this works out.

Thank you on securing the nut idea. I deal with Shilen all the time for our juniors barrels donation, I never venture in their website. Have no idea they have this system available.
 
Length of the nut doesn't matter for headspacing.
Your still setting the headspace by the depth the barrel screws into the action.
You just need enough thread on the barrel to allow the barrel to go deep enough into the receiver with the nut & recoil lug taken into account.
The nut just tightens the barrel to the receiver.
One of us is misunderstanding his assembly.
You're still referring to a "typical" nutted installation- and that's not what he's doing as I understand it.
The front face of the nut will seat against the shoulder on the barrel ahead of the tenon threads.
With a flat breech there's always some flexibility with the depth of the chamber- but at the end of the day it's the length of the nut and the recoil lug that's setting the headspace. It'll be a switchbarrel rifle that won't require a go gage if the barrel is pulled and reinstalled- the nut is fixed, it no longer functions as a variable shoulder.
 
So Nez you are always amazing me with your tinkering. I have a Savage Precision in 6.5 man bun. Been considering a rebarrel for some time. Wish I lived in town down there. Nice work, Scott
 

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