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Opinions on bore pastes?

Jim D said:
A smooth surface, is different than the edge of the lands. A corner sands much easier than a flat surface. If your rifling is sharp ? That edge is the first thing to go.
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I did this for *minutes* on full throttle, swapping out patches with new paste when they got gunked up. Not even a tenth of wear on the weakest steel out there. It's just not an issue to push a patch down the bore a few times. I'm sure you could try it with sharp edges, but You'd probably tear up the patches and never get any wear. Try it - you'll be convinced.
 
If you want a rifle clean then you need to use a paste. I find I can get it close with foam but about every third cleaning there is too much felt behind and JB leaves nothing behind. I was told by a friend to clean my 6.5 till it was perfect, and bring it with me when i came to shoot on the weekend. When I got there he produced a hawkeye borescope and showed me all kinds of carbon left in the corners of the rifleing. i put a patch on a Parker -Hale jag and gave it 25 strokes with JB on the patch then a second look on the hawkeye and no more carbon. If you haven't looked through a bore scope at a before and after on a barrel, you have no idea cause you don't know if it is clean or not and cleaning till you get a clean patch is a joke, it means nothing.
 
urbanrifleman said:
It doesn't work telling them. They are convinced that car polish will remove steel from the bore of their barrel. And nothing you can say to them will make them change their minds.

I tested all of the abrasives my favorite by far is Flitz barrel cleaner. And it absolutely positively can't hurt your barrel no matter what anyone says.
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How did you like JB?
 
urbanrifleman said:
I used jb for 20 years. I found Flitz to be TWICE as effective as JB.

That means it took half as many strokes to do the same work.
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How do you clean out all of the flitz when you're done, Just dry patches? I was using dry patches and patches with 99% alchohol to clean out the iosso paste, Not sure if the alchohol was overkill, But seemed to work.
 
Mike TackleBerry said:
How do you clean out all of the flitz when you're done, Just dry patches.
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Good question!!!

No. In fact I use Rem Shotgun cleaner or Birchwood Casey gun cleaner on soaking wet patches. These are alcohol based and I wet patch until clear and then I'm done. Since it evaporates.

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urbanrifleman said:
It doesn't work telling them. They are convinced that car polish will remove steel from the bore of their barrel. And nothing you can say to them will make them change their minds.

I tested all of the abrasives my favorite by far is Flitz barrel cleaner. And it absolutely positively can't hurt your barrel no matter what anyone says.
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Brad,
Do you use Flitz on a bronze brush, nylon brush or patch?
 
Hard carbon needs removed by mechanical means. Either brushes or abrasives. Solvents aren't going to do much. What shooters think is carbon coming out is loose powder fouling. It'll wipe off with anything.

The first few inches or longer depending on the cartridge, powder, load, etc is where you'll see hard carbon build up.


I've come to the conclusion that it's cheaper and easier to run a few patches of an abrasive down the bore than it is brushes and solvents. To remove carbon with brushes, you need nice new crispy brushes...they don't last really long so you need a bunch to maintain a barrel. Then you need a lot of strokes. To me, the more strokes, the more chance for something to get damaged...like the crown.


Everyone has their own methods. Everyone also has their own shooting needs.

Bore scopes are pretty cheap these days. After buying one I realized what was true and what wasn't. Targets tell the tale as well.

I have the mindset of....I can't maintain the same level of fouling. My "game" needs me to shoot 100 rounds or so typically.....so that's when I clean back to a bare bore. I know what my rig will do from 1-100 or so and can maintain the bore.

When your rod isn't rotating with the rifling, your throat is almost certainly fouled badly. When I've gotten to that point, I see it on target.


When I clean, I run a couple patches with Kroil or whatever oil I grab. Then I move to Iosso. I'll run a few patches down the entire bore. Then I'll mostly focus on the first foot or so with various length short strokes and after a little work I send it out the bore. Do that a handful of times and run oil patches...I've learned that a heavier CLP type oil patch removes the Iosso quicker.



If you think a bore abrasive damages rifling.....what does a bullet at 3000fps and 65k psi and a literal fireball do to the bore???? Every time you fire a round an explosion happens. Fire a case with JUST a primer in a clean bore and see how much stuff comes out...plus a flame.
 
Having used JB and regular IOSSO quite a bit over the years, but only on an as needed basis (Borescopes are invaluable for this sort of evaluation.) my new favorite is the combination of Thorroclean, and Thorroflush. TC is a liquid form of IOSSO paste, and the Thorroflush does a good job of removing it.
 
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