Some new cases are tight

[Jayplace]

New to 30BR.
I'm preparing new unfired cases for my 30 BR with a .330 neck and using Lapua 6mm BR brass.
After necking up, trimming to 1.500 and turning the necks to a .0098 thickness, I am finding a few cases that require a small amount of pressure to close the bolt which will stick in the chamber when the bolt is opened. On most of the other brass the bolt handle will drop from its own weight and open and extract with ease. (The firing pin assembly is removed from the bolt). I have tried resizing the brass and even bumped the shoulder a few thousands and that makes no difference. I have a shoulder bump gage and they slip into and out of the gage easily. I've used a borescope to verify the case necks weren't long, so I don't think the problem is there.

Is it possible that when I necked the cases up that I made the neck not straight, and if so would you fire-form them to get them straight again.

 

[M-61]

which will stick in the chamber when the bolt is opened.

Meaning they will not extract and you push them out with a cleaning rod or drop tube or whatever you use?

 

[Bill Norris]

When I fire-formed brass for both of my 30BRs they were a little tight but not sticking in the chamber.

 

[M-61]

little tight but but sticking in the chamber

Sticking or not sticking? You have a typo there.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

All new brass must be FL sized or itll get you someday

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

Did you neck up in one step?

 

[LHSmith]

Are you sure it's a .330 neck?

 

[Jayplace]

Sorry for the inconsistency for what I ask.
The bolt can be lifted with just a little pressure and the bolt will not pull the case out easily.
I've found that I can insert a screwdriver between the receiver and bolt handle and that pops it out fairly easy. I don't like pulling hard on the bolt handle.

I have measured the cases at many different points and cannot find a measurable difference. (Using Digital Micrometer to .0001)

 

[Jayplace]

When I fire-formed brass for both of my 30BRs they were a little tight but but sticking in the chamber.

When I fire formed my original 3 pieces of brass to get a sizing die, there was no sticking at any point for any of the 3 pieces of brass. I did however fire-form at the lower end of the recommended charge range.

 

[Jayplace]

Are you sure it's a .330 neck?

Yes.

 

[Homerange]

Time to get a candle out and soot some brass to discover/confirm where the issues is.

 

[BoydAllen]

It may be that in turning the neck you stopped a little short of the shoulder on a couple of cases. I think that this will iron out on the first firing. If your necks are consistent and the right thickness, I think that you should be fine, assuming that your bullets do not extend down into the neck shoulder junction.

 

[Jayplace]

Did you neck up in one step?

Yes, they were done in one step using a K&N tool for going from 6mm to 30.

 

[Jayplace]

It may be that in turning the neck you stopped a little short of the shoulder on a couple of cases. I think that this will iron out on the first firing. If your necks are consistent and the right thickness, I think that you should be fine, assuming that your bullets do not extend down into the neck shoulder junction.

I'm using the K&M neck turner with the appropriate angle for 30 BR and turn so that the cutter touches the shoulder. I'm certain the bullet base doesn't go that far.

 

[Bill Norris]

Sticking or not sticking? You have a typo there.

Thank you Sir.

 

[Alguapo]

Going through some of the same issues on a built .243. After watching some You Tube Videos I blackened the bolt face and around the lugs with a black magic marker. Sure enough the bolt is rubbing on the edge of the chamber. It was never cut right. Frustrating as "heck". Hope you find your problem. Good luck.

 

[LCazador]

When I fire formed my original 3 pieces of brass to get a sizing die, there was no sticking at any point for any of the 3 pieces of brass. I did however fire-form at the lower end of the recommended charge range.

Who made the die for you? Are you cutting into the shoulder to remove the outside donut that forms when you neck up?

 

[Jayplace]

Who made the die for you? Are you cutting into the shoulder to remove the outside donut that forms when you neck up?

I am cutting into the shoulder.

The Sizing die that I had made is from Harrells. I originally received a 2.5 die and then got a #3 die. Didn't change my problem.

My concern is really on the brass that I have just made and has not been sized or fired.

 

[DJSBRS]

Yes, they were done in one step using a K&N tool for going from 6mm to 30.

When using a "one step" sizing mandrel, it tends to put a lot of pressure on the shoulder shifting the shoulder over slightly causing loss of concentricity as well as getting more split necks. FL resize after you use your expander mandrel then use the expander mandrel that matches your turning tool mandrel. After your turning process is complete, FL size all the way to the neck shoulder junction. The outside donut will be down about 2/3 down on the neck after sizing and before turning. Be sure to use the 30º cutting blade on your turner so you won't get to thin at the neck shoulder junction. If you need some help, feel free to call me. Once you fire it, you will have it extract easily.

DJ
DJ's Brass Service
205-461-4680

 

[JMayo]

When i pulled mine up a few wernt exactly straight. This caused some locking up issues. It also happens when i have them done. So it's expected until fire formed.
I even had to get rough on the bolt to close on some.
Also my cases were too long and needed to be trimmed to 1.51 at the longest.