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Benchrest- overcast vs bright light conditions?

If you get bright sun and mirage what do you do?
You get to a point where you start dialing down on power.
Early in the morning, I had sighters down range prior to
the event kicking off. First relay, I backed from 55 down to
40 then down to 30 for the second relay. For the 3rd and
4th relays, I was able to crank it back up.
 
You get to a point where you start dialing down on power.
Early in the morning, I had sighters down range prior to
the event kicking off. First relay, I backed from 55 down to
40 then down to 30 for the second relay. For the 3rd and
4th relays, I was able to crank it back up.
Good point Fuj. One day many years ago at an IBS Championship it was in the high 90s and very humid. Everyone was crying about the mirage. It was 100 and 200 yds. I dialed down to 24 power after the first target and shot at that both days. I ended up second. It taught me a lesson. The middle is still the middle wether it looks big to you or smaller.
 
What distance are you doing your load development at?
100 yards from bench rest.

I shoot NRA High Power rifle competition so eventually the 100 yard pet load gets tested in prone position with the sling at 600 or 1000 yards. I also shoot the reduced course matches and it is fun to shoot the prone slow fire stage with a very accurate load.
 
100 yards from bench rest.

I shoot NRA High Power rifle competition so eventually the 100 yard pet load gets tested in prone position with the sling at 600 or 1000 yards. I also shoot the reduced course matches and it is fun to shoot the prone slow fire stage with a very accurate load.
I take it that your mirage problems are at the longer distances. For that situation I would have to defer to those that shoot benchrest at those distances. My experience with mirage is almost entirely at 200 yards.
 
I take it that your mirage problems are at the longer distances. For that situation I would have to defer to those that shoot benchrest at those distances. My experience with mirage is almost entirely at 200 yards.
No, my problem is with the bright light and mirage at 100 yards where I am doing load development from benchrest and need to see the reticle on the target very clearly. It is not a big issue when shooting in position with lower power scopes for XTC competition where we have a big target.
 
I understand the issues mirage can cause but dialing the power down only makes it where you can't see it but does not mean the mirage is gone. You just made it where you couldn't see it. Mirage is light bending due to air currents. Moisture or things like even dust, along with light are what makes it visible.
 
I understand the issues mirage can cause but dialing the power down only makes it where you can't see it but does not mean the mirage is gone. You just made it where you couldn't see it. Mirage is light bending due to air currents. Moisture or things like even dust, along with light are what makes it visible.
So, is dialing down effective in mitigating the negative effects or not?
 
I understand the issues mirage can cause but dialing the power down only makes it where you can't see it but does not mean the mirage is gone. You just made it where you couldn't see it. Mirage is light bending due to air currents. Moisture or things like even dust, along with light are what makes it visible.
Sometimes I dial down and rely on my flags. Occasionally I ignore the flags and trust the mirage. Not set in stone . It's nice when both line up and repeat.
 
So, is dialing down effective in mitigating the negative effects or not?
I do not think so.:D
Seriously, I think it depends. You can't hit what you can't see but the bullet sees it all. I do think that mis-aiming due to mirage is likely more often than not, more important than the condition has on the bullet. But like wind, that too depends on things like where the wind or mirage is worst. Flip side is, mirage is the best wind flag ever. You're seeing mirage nearest the target if you have the scope set parallax free. Like Jeff said, it's nice when flags and the mirage agree but then you have the determine which is least dishonest and frankly, I've seen it both ways.
 
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No, my problem is with the bright light and mirage at 100 yards where I am doing load development from benchrest and need to see the reticle on the target very clearly. It is not a big issue when shooting in position with lower power scopes for XTC competition where we have a big target.
Thanks for the clarification. I do not think that mirage has much to do with your problem. I have done lots of shooting at that distance in bright light with no mirage problems with scopes over 40X. Of course this is just a guess, but perhaps your problem is glare. Have you ever tried looking through your high power scope (on a bright day) with Polaroid glasses, or a polarizing lens that was designed for a camera? As an afterthought, tell us about your testing targets. Do you print them, or are they commercial. How reflective is the paper? Yes I am a crazy experimenter, so you will have to pardon me for this. Try making some sort of shade for the target so that no direct sunlight falls on it, sort of an artificial cloudy day. Think of it as having perfect control of the weather ;-)
 
Thanks for the clarification. I do not think that mirage has much to do with your problem. I have done lots of shooting at that distance in bright light with no mirage problems with scopes over 40X. Of course this is just a guess, but perhaps your problem is glare. Have you ever tried looking through your high power scope (on a bright day) with Polaroid glasses, or a polarizing lens that was designed for a camera? As an afterthought, tell us about your testing targets. Do you print them, or are they commercial. How reflective is the paper? Yes I am a crazy experimenter, so you will have to pardon me for this. Try making some sort of shade for the target so that no direct sunlight falls on it, sort of an artificial cloudy day. Think of it as having perfect control of the weather ;-)
UBR targets are very white. I seldom have an issue with it but yes, on occasion it has "whited" things out. It's rare though.
 
Probably cataracts, is night driving getting difficult?
Yes, night driving is a problem and some other things that are the result of "slow growing" cataracts

The "slow growing" means that things degrade very slowly over time so that it is hardly noticed at first but things do not get better with age. I believe this may be the problem at the bench where I am pressing my eyesight to the limits. So I will be limited to shooting bench rest on overcast days until I get eye surgery.
 
I am hesitant to add my two cents here simply because it might be that my experience, much of it based on shooting 45 years ago, might not be considered applicable today, but here it is anyway.
The difference between bright sun and a cloudy day is less a difference in the amount of light than it is a difference in the effect of more light and or heat. Tied into the effects of the light and heat is the accompanying movement of air.
Mirage is the most obvious effect seen on a sunny day and is what makes precise aiming difficult. On the plus side, it also lets you know what the air currents are doing. I have never had any desire to use more than a 36 power scope and have shot in many situations where I thought 24 was better. The reason I felt the 24 was better was because the greater depth of focus allowed me to see the mirage better, between me and the target. This was beneficial if I was to use the mirage to help me to read the windWith that out of the way, how would I aim? In the unlikely event that there was no wind at all, the mirage will cause the aiming point to bounce up and down, with the occasional hop to either side to keep things interesting. If group shooting, I always wanted my first shot to hit in a particular spot so I would hold where I thought would make that happen. In this case that would probably be a 6 oclock average. By 6 oclock average, I mean I would aim at the bottom of the mothball and would largely ignore the lateral hops the image made. It is my belief, in the case of a running or boiling mirage, the displacement of the target will amount to a maximum of 3/8 moa with 1/4 being more likely. If the mirage is boiuling straight up this is all I have to contend with.
If the mirage is running from left to right, I will hold at about 7:30 to allow for defraction plus whatever value I have decided to give the wind. If my rifle shoots well enough, I will, hopefully, learn more as the day progresses and be shooting better as time goes on. All too often, the reality is, I will learn nothing and appear more and more lost as the day goes on! This is how I deal with mirage (or not) for short range BR.
If shooting at long range, things are much the same except the effect of the wind is much greater. Displacement of the target by mirage is still about the same (1/4 to 3/8 moa) and is dealt with by holding off or by dialing in 1/4. In order to use the mirage as a wind indicator, you have to be able to see the mirage where you are trying to read the wind. since the trajectory of the bullet might be 6 to eight feet above the line of sight, at 1000 yds, you will want to try and read the mirage at this elevation at about 650 yards. You can do this with a spotting scope focused short or you can come close by focusing your riflescope a little short in order to see as much as you can without blurring the target too badly.
Today, it is common for competitors in short range BR to shoot a bunch of sighters in order to try and gauge conditions. I never do this and this may be why I am less successful than I was back in the day, or they might just be better than I am.
Maybe later, I'll talk about the effects of a non-running or non-boiling mirage or defraction. The displacement of the target can be much greater and it is much more difficult to read. You may see a beautifully clear image of the target with the only issue being that it is not there! WH
 
I favor cloudy conditions, but sunshine is not a problem if it's at
your back. The range that I shoot with JEFFPPC has a nasty sun
in your face early on. Some have clamp on bench umbrellas, and
some like myself hang a towel from the beam above. Let me tell
you about the time I shot under the lights at night there. It was
a treat. I think the whole point is to have a relaxed sight, and no
squinting where your forced to move in and out of the eye box.
Never realized how bad my cataracts were until I went to a night match.
I use light yellow and green target paper, really helps on a bright day.
 
To combat the effects of nasty conditions, I’ve taken up the practice of shooting all my test rounds at one point of aim using about three rounds of each increment whether charge or seating etc. and simply color the tips with a sharpie , to identify each rounds impact I connect the dots with a pen. This alleviates the need to monitor each impact through the scope. I was introduced to this method and now use it almost exclusively. Reading the target isn’t any different or more difficult than other methods.
You can shoot them in color groups or round robin.
This is really neat. I gotta try it.
 

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