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223 reloads for short range (100 yard) accuracy only

Pareto

Silver $$ Contributor
Since I'm just dipping my toes into reloading and don't plan on reloading large quantities, I have a question. What are the starting recipes you recommend for me shooting a Howa 1500 in 223 at 100 yards benchrest (mostly indoors) only? I have no interest in high velocity, nor PRS, nor long range shooting at all. Zero. Only accuracy/precision at 100 yards BR group shooting. Possibly 200 y once a year, if at all. The rifle has a 1:8 twist and often gets sub MOA with PMC 55 with 3 shot groups as well as with heavy match ammo. With 5 shot groups, it's worse and usually does no better than 1.0 to 1.5 MOA. I want to get to the point where I tighten my groups up and get more consistency for my personal pleasure. The action is already mated to an Oryx chassis and is shot from a fully adjustable rest I use for match rimfire, rather than a bipod or bag. I alternate between a simple Protektor bag at the rear and a Holeshot adjustable rear rest.

Also, I would like to start with currently available powders (unlike Varget or unless you can point me to a source who isn't going to charge scalper prices for their stock) like CFE 223 and easily available bullets like Hornady VMax or at the higher end Sierra SMK bullets in 62 or 69 grains at the priciest. My guess is 77 grain is overkill. I have a mix of once fired (by me) brass from PMC, Norma, and Swiss P/Geco mostly with some random other stuff from Lake County, Sig, ADI, Winchester, etc. as well as a few dozen 556 cases.

Ideas? Thank you for your help.
 
This is what I use.lapua brass,205 match primer,vit N133 powder,match grade bullet,i use Bergers because of the availability..refer to a good reloading manual.start low with powder charge and work up accordingly.good luck.
 
...shooting a Howa 1500 in 223...
...The rifle has a 1:8 twist ...
You mentioned an aftermarket chassis. Is your barrel and trigger original Howa 1500?

Sometimes, we have to accept that a factory sporter barrel isn't the same as a match quality benchrest barrel and adjust our expectations to those goals and limits. Not to say you can't get going with your learning journey using what you have, but keeping in mind the handicap of that sort of barrel when it comes to heat, shot count, and group stats.

Remember, your 8 twist is a good compromise barrel twist. It is meant to do well with 62 - 77 grain ammo, but can still run down to the medium/light ends okay. It will be able to go down to 50 grain but you may or may not be able to shoot 40 grain. Some do and some don't.

If you are already prejudiced against the 77 SMK, then you should focus on the 69 SMK for a while, and then branch out into some high quality factory flat base match bullets, before you graduate to more expensive materials.

Berger makes some decent 52 and 55 grain match bullets, as well as Sierra's 52 and 53 MatchKings.
You will already have seen the 69 SMK as a baseline, so you will begin to get a feel for the potential of the barrel (and the pilot). Sometimes, these bullets shoot very well in factory barrels, and certainly well enough to get you started down the path.

The powder needs to match the weight range of the bullets to some degree. Some powders have a wider range, but they tend to match up to High, Medium, or Low in terms of bullet weights where they perform.
Nothing wrong with CFE223 to start out if that is all you can get. Try some of the extruded powders when you get the chance. Here is a general guide.
https://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/223rem/

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You don't need a ton of brass, but it sure helps to have high quality brass in sets that make it easy to run prep. Sort out your brass for the best quality you already have. When you get more, try to get higher quality brass like Lapua. Try for minimal bumping, but use enough to close the bolt easy.

The chamber you have is not the same as a bechrest rig, so it will require you to learn the distance to lands for any bullets you choose and seat accordingly. You will probably not benefit from neck turning for a long time, so at first stick with no-turn till you learn the ropes. Just keep it simple for a while and then start with the more sophisticated methods to see if you can shoot the difference.

My best advice, is to travel to a BR match near you and visit, watch, and see what you can learn about what those folks are doing versus what you are doing. The sooner the better.

Nothing wrong with your 100 yard indoor idea, or your goals to get a good as you can with it at 100 yards. Your Howa 1500 will not be the same as a bench rest quality custom rig. As long as you are aware of those limits, you will learn plenty before you worry about upgrades. To progress with the sport (when it is time), you will want to study about the differences between factory sporter barrels and match target barrels and the chambers with respect to bullet selection.

Before long, you will want something more like a heavy varmint rig that allows you to go to the next level of group size performance. By then you will have a better idea of what the rig should look like when you try to shoot small groups.

Good Luck!
 
Thank you. That's exactly the idea. No point in custom or changing caliber till I know what I want. This is a learning stage for me.
 
What you seek, try some 40 grain stuff. You may well be surprised.
Your groups getting spread out with more rounds fired, I had a Howa that spread bad with the heat from firing. Shot to shot with time to cool it was fine.
 
At that range you will be fine with a flat base bullet
I find these to be pretty forgiving as long as you don’t shoot at distance is too far
 
Understanding your limitations with your çurrent rifle...
Consistency of your reloaded ammo.
Brass: Don't mix brass mfg - pick one brand to start with (to get an understanding of this, weigh several cases from each of the different mfg - you will see variation both between different mfg and the same mfg... - and measure length - can you say "trim" required...).
Primers: Make an effort to have both CCI and Federal to test.
Powder: Varget is now more available, you can find it just work at it. In the bullet weight for your twist I'd want it to try.
Bullet: 69/77 SMK. There is a reason the ammo mfg use these bullets in their good stuff. My AR 15's with 7.5 twists prefer the 77. My 9 twist bolt gun the 69 ( it did shoot the Berger 70 a hair better...).
 
Try 69 SMKs with TAC, lots of that around. If you can't get the group sizes down with those try the 77's, just watch for pressure signs. AA2520 might also be a good choice, and is also available.
 
Thank you all. And yes, I believe the Howa is sensitive to heating up. Even with slow shooting, single shot loaded and breaks between groups, shots spread badly at the end of every 1 to 1.5 hour shooting session. I guess it is really more of a hunting barrel. But the rifle was cheap and shoots well initially (it cost about as much used as a new barreled action) with stock trigger, action, and barrel. I am also going to use a spring kit to bring down the weight of the trigger pull to (I hope) around 1.5 lbs from 2.75 to 3 lbs.
 
Dies:
You need a micrometer seating die to adjust seating depth. Here is a suggestion that's not to expensive:



Get it in combo with this one

This one has seat and fl size (not bushing).
 
Last edited:
Since I'm just dipping my toes into reloading and don't plan on reloading large quantities, I have a question. What are the starting recipes you recommend for me shooting a Howa 1500 in 223 at 100 yards benchrest (mostly indoors) only? I have no interest in high velocity, nor PRS, nor long range shooting at all. Zero. Only accuracy/precision at 100 yards BR group shooting. Possibly 200 y once a year, if at all. The rifle has a 1:8 twist and often gets sub MOA with PMC 55 with 3 shot groups as well as with heavy match ammo. With 5 shot groups, it's worse and usually does no better than 1.0 to 1.5 MOA. I want to get to the point where I tighten my groups up and get more consistency for my personal pleasure. The action is already mated to an Oryx chassis and is shot from a fully adjustable rest I use for match rimfire, rather than a bipod or bag. I alternate between a simple Protektor bag at the rear and a Holeshot adjustable rear rest.

Also, I would like to start with currently available powders (unlike Varget or unless you can point me to a source who isn't going to charge scalper prices for their stock) like CFE 223 and easily available bullets like Hornady VMax or at the higher end Sierra SMK bullets in 62 or 69 grains at the priciest. My guess is 77 grain is overkill. I have a mix of once fired (by me) brass from PMC, Norma, and Swiss P/Geco mostly with some random other stuff from Lake County, Sig, ADI, Winchester, etc. as well as a few dozen 556 cases.

Ideas? Thank you for your help.
What's the taper of your barrel? I shoot a varmint grade Howa 1500 with a 12 twist, set up for field work. I use H322 and a 40 grain VMAX. The heavy barrel does not have a spread with slow fired groups. I haven't shot 100 yard groups in quite awhile but it averages 1 1/16" at 300 yards.
 
I shoot the Sierria manual "accuracy load" for 53 SMKs (flat base) in NRA 100 yard High Power reduced course matches. I wrote a report on the load development for this application. If you would like a copy of the report send me an email at chkunz@bellsoouth.net and I will send you a copy.
 
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Another vote for N133 powder--it has broad window --I have had amazing results using it and 40-55 grain bullets 40g Vmax or 53g Vmax are available and just shoot great at 100yds
I get almost as good with them as the much more expensive Bergers-- ( I LOVE Bergers but dang $$$$)
23.3g of N133 with 53g Vmax shoots 3/8ths groups for me at 100 on a good day
 
My 8" twist Tikka T3X varmint model shoots sub 1/2 moa with H4895, Hornaday 60 Vmax, and Federal 205M primers and I'm a lousy bench shooter.
 
I can’t or won’t push you towards a bullet over 69 grains at the ranges you speak of. As mentioned above a flat base will fly with the best of them at 100-200 yards.
Actually my 69 grain load settles down at about 300 and flys great to 450.

Components, I would run what you have or have access too, I mean with today’s availability.

Change one thing at a time. Don’t get over whelmed with info.
 
If 100yds is it the 53 gr Sierra Matchkings and 52 Berger Match Target are flat based and will probably be the most accurate at that range. Work extremely well to 300yds. I use both 8298XBR and Vithavouri N135 with excellent results. Have had good success with H335 but bon't like its temperature sensitivity.

Other bullets that work well are Nosler Ballistic Tips (55 and 60 grains)).. Going to the 69grain class is overkill for 100yd target shooting.

As for dies mentioned above you do not need that level of quality. I get sub .3 MOA 5 shot groups with Lee dies. Starting out I would recommend putting your money into Lapua brass. It is more expensive but much more consistent in weight than other brands (some will disagree).

Most bolt shooters at our range with 223 reload the following powders in no specific order:
8298XBR
Varget
Benchmark
N133 (I'm the oddball with N135)
H335
There are a few using Accurate powders but I don't remember the specifics.

In the current market I would look at N133 and N135 but they do cost more but are good powders. 8208XBR<Varget and Benchmark are ADI powders from Australia and have had availability issues even before COVID. Until you settle on a powder try and buy 1 lb bottles locally.
 
I did kinda the same thing you're wanting to do with a 223 Model 700VTR several years ago.I learned a lot from that rifle.Out of the box,it was good for 1.5-2 inches at 100 yards.My goal was to get it to shoot as consistent as possible at 100 yards so I had a rifle that didn't cost much to shoot,had little recoil and would shoot well enough to let me know if I wasn't shooting well on a given day.I tune rifles for customers,and if I was sitting and waiting for the barrel to cool,I could shoot my 223.I tried glass bedding the factory plastic stock and it made no improvement to how well it would shoot...still 1.5-2 inches.I must have tried a hundred different loads,and gained no accuracy at all.I saved up and ordered a Shilen pre-chambered barrel and installed it.Instant results!Half inch groups with almost any powder/bullet combination,now we're talking.I got the best accuracy with the 69 grain Tipped Matchking and Varget.I was very happy with the way it shot,and it was for sure accurate enough to let me know if I wasn't shooting well.I ran across a Shilen 2 ounce benchrest trigger for a dirt cheap price and installed it.Group size shrank a little more.I had a problem with the firing pin and replaced it with a Tubb aluminum pin with dual springs.I upgraded the 6.5X 20 Leupold scope I had on it from the start with a 12-42 Nightforce.I improved my rest setup and found an even better powder/bullet combo,now I shoot 73 grain Berger match BTHP's with IMR8208XBR.This has taken about 10 years to gradually make improvements to the setup.Nowadays,that little old homemade club will put 5 shots into a quarter inch or less at 100 yards if the wind's not too bad.A .103 is the best it's done,and I'll take that.In the end,that innocent little project has grown and improved a lot over the past few years.It's by far the most accurate rifle I own,and I just love to shoot it.Take your time,grow slowly,and if I were to be a betting man,I would bet your 223 will probably look different as time passes.
 

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