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Chamber flush system build log.

My setup is about $750 plus fluid. This includes:

1. AMT 1/4 HP Immersion Coolant Pump
2. 5 Gal, 14 Gauge steel reservoir
3. GreTan BTS
4. 4.9" hole saw
5. Bread pan
6. Hose, fittings, magnets

The advantages of the immersion style coolant pumps include not needing filtration (magnets and settling are enough); they are heavy duty pumps designed for continuous use, they are rated to pump light oils, the plumbing is a little simpler, and they allow a little smaller footprint.

The disadvantages include they are expensive vs HP compared to carbonator pumps, they are heavy which means you need a sturdy reservoir, and they may still need some sort of flow control valving.

I'll know more once I get mine setup and start using it.
Please keep us posted when you get your system built. I’m also considering trying an AMT pump.

I’m trying to choose between the 1/8 or 1/4hp pump.
 
Please keep us posted when you get your system built. I’m also considering trying an AMT pump.

I’m trying to choose between the 1/8 or 1/4hp pump.

What machine do you have? The 1/8th HP is a direct replacement to "most" import pumps. For instance, my 1440 would be a direct swap. Saves you a lot of trouble with plumbing and reservoirs
 
Acra 1440cvs. Why not just use the factory coolant system then?

I was under the impression that mine was for water based coolants only, not oils?
 
Acra 1440cvs. Why not just use the factory coolant system then?

I was under the impression that mine was for water based coolants only, not oils?

Dave Tooley posted a pic of how much flow he has with a neat cutting oil and a 1/8 HP immersion style pump. It seemed a little light for what I want. Conversely, Aaron posted a video of his 1/3 HP carbonator pump and it seemed like too much when wide open. I am hoping my 1/4 HP immersion pump will be about right. If it's a little too much I'll just add a ball valve to restrict flow. A centrifugal pump actually works less when it has less flow, though I am not sure it's happy if the valve was completely shut off.
 
Please keep us posted when you get your system built. I’m also considering trying an AMT pump.

I’m trying to choose between the 1/8 or 1/4hp pump.
The difference is about 5 vs 10psi max psi.

I'm skeptical if 10psi is enough to flush chips with a reamer bushing engaged in the bore, but it will certainly provide continuous lube. Even with my higher pressure gear pump I get a clogged fute once the shoulder hits the end of the pre-bore on smaller stuff. A .308 reamer bushing passes a lot more oil than a .22cal. That's where the addition of air comes in I guess.

Those types of pumps have no seals in the wet end. (At least the ones I've worked on) Any leakage just goes back to the sump. They should be fine with anything that doesn't attack the metal.
 
The difference is about 5 vs 10psi max psi.

I'm skeptical if 10psi is enough to flush chips with a reamer bushing engaged in the bore, but it will certainly provide continuous lube. Even with my higher pressure gear pump I get a clogged fute once the shoulder hits the end of the pre-bore on smaller stuff. A .308 reamer bushing passes a lot more oil than a .22cal. That's where the addition of air comes in I guess.

Those types of pumps have no seals in the wet end. (At least the ones I've worked on) Any leakage just goes back to the sump. They should be fine with anything that doesn't attack the metal.
I have a few reamers on order with JGS, and I specified the oil groove bushings with them.

Hopefully they will move more oil then the slotted screw with standard bushings.
 
The difference is about 5 vs 10psi max psi.

I'm skeptical if 10psi is enough to flush chips with a reamer bushing engaged in the bore, but it will certainly provide continuous lube. Even with my higher pressure gear pump I get a clogged fute once the shoulder hits the end of the pre-bore on smaller stuff. A .308 reamer bushing passes a lot more oil than a .22cal. That's where the addition of air comes in I guess.

Those types of pumps have no seals in the wet end. (At least the ones I've worked on) Any leakage just goes back to the sump. They should be fine with anything that doesn't attack the metal.

I probably restrict the flow on the flush at work to 10 PSI or less. I'm not sure since my valve body is downstream from the gauge. Like I have mentioned before, many of us are not looking for a CNC level of chamber flush. We just want the system to flush chips out of the chamber and somewhat off the reamer when we pull it out every .050 to .100". Though not CNC fast, this method is significantly faster than having to squirt fluid up into the chamber and then try to brush out chips.
 
FWIW the stock pump on the PM1440GT will not handle light oil. It will run for a few minutes and shut off for 20-30 minutes. The manual says water only... it's telling the truth. :)
Any way to use the tank in place with the factory return and nozzle with a better pump? I had a jet with probably the same coolant setup and it ran light oil for many years with never an issue
 
As best I can tell the factory pump is the same hole pattern and size as the Graymills/AMT pumps we're talking about here. Should be a direct swap.
 
FWIW the stock pump on the PM1440GT will not handle light oil. It will run for a few minutes and shut off for 20-30 minutes. The manual says water only... it's telling the truth. :)

I wonder if the pump would handle the semi-synthetic oil that I run in my mill. It is 90% water and it is awesome for general machining. Just a thought.

Paul
 
I wonder if the pump would handle the semi-synthetic oil that I run in my mill. It is 90% water and it is awesome for general machining. Just a thought.

Paul

I don't know much about water-soluble oils but if it's thin like water it'll work.
 
22-09-13 18-12-46 8596.jpg

22-09-13 18-12-48 8597.jpg



Chambered two complete barrels with the system today. (284 win)

* Worked great. Important to "groove" the pilot retaining screw evenly - or thoroughly enough and on each flute, or low flow flutes will not flush chips completely.
* I was getting a lot of "small stuff" settling in the bottom of my drain hose. I'm sure the external screw on filter is packed with trash.
* Added some screen pre-filter in the tray, that really helped but a lot still gets through it, so I put that magnet on the tank to catch it in-hose. Super annoying to clean out several times.

I think I'll figure out some kind of U shaped trap with a petcock at the bottom to flush the small crap out.


overall, works really well.
 
Get some small rare earth magnets and put them in a zip lock bag in the catch tray around the return hose. That way your not cleaning things out of your pipe and can probably do away with that return screen
 
Get some small rare earth magnets and put them in a zip lock bag in the catch tray around the return hose. That way your not cleaning things out of your pipe and can probably do away with that return screen

I should have mentioned - The bottom of the bread pan is covered in them.
 

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