I bet you only need one control valve.
Please keep us posted when you get your system built. I’m also considering trying an AMT pump.My setup is about $750 plus fluid. This includes:
1. AMT 1/4 HP Immersion Coolant Pump
2. 5 Gal, 14 Gauge steel reservoir
3. GreTan BTS
4. 4.9" hole saw
5. Bread pan
6. Hose, fittings, magnets
The advantages of the immersion style coolant pumps include not needing filtration (magnets and settling are enough); they are heavy duty pumps designed for continuous use, they are rated to pump light oils, the plumbing is a little simpler, and they allow a little smaller footprint.
The disadvantages include they are expensive vs HP compared to carbonator pumps, they are heavy which means you need a sturdy reservoir, and they may still need some sort of flow control valving.
I'll know more once I get mine setup and start using it.
Please keep us posted when you get your system built. I’m also considering trying an AMT pump.
I’m trying to choose between the 1/8 or 1/4hp pump.
Please keep us posted when you get your system built. I’m also considering trying an AMT pump.
I’m trying to choose between the 1/8 or 1/4hp pump.
Acra 1440cvs. Why not just use the factory coolant system then?
I was under the impression that mine was for water based coolants only, not oils?
The difference is about 5 vs 10psi max psi.Please keep us posted when you get your system built. I’m also considering trying an AMT pump.
I’m trying to choose between the 1/8 or 1/4hp pump.
I have a few reamers on order with JGS, and I specified the oil groove bushings with them.The difference is about 5 vs 10psi max psi.
I'm skeptical if 10psi is enough to flush chips with a reamer bushing engaged in the bore, but it will certainly provide continuous lube. Even with my higher pressure gear pump I get a clogged fute once the shoulder hits the end of the pre-bore on smaller stuff. A .308 reamer bushing passes a lot more oil than a .22cal. That's where the addition of air comes in I guess.
Those types of pumps have no seals in the wet end. (At least the ones I've worked on) Any leakage just goes back to the sump. They should be fine with anything that doesn't attack the metal.
The difference is about 5 vs 10psi max psi.
I'm skeptical if 10psi is enough to flush chips with a reamer bushing engaged in the bore, but it will certainly provide continuous lube. Even with my higher pressure gear pump I get a clogged fute once the shoulder hits the end of the pre-bore on smaller stuff. A .308 reamer bushing passes a lot more oil than a .22cal. That's where the addition of air comes in I guess.
Those types of pumps have no seals in the wet end. (At least the ones I've worked on) Any leakage just goes back to the sump. They should be fine with anything that doesn't attack the metal.
FWIW the stock pump on the PM1440GT will not handle light oil. It will run for a few minutes and shut off for 20-30 minutes. The manual says water only... it's telling the truth.![]()
Any way to use the tank in place with the factory return and nozzle with a better pump? I had a jet with probably the same coolant setup and it ran light oil for many years with never an issueFWIW the stock pump on the PM1440GT will not handle light oil. It will run for a few minutes and shut off for 20-30 minutes. The manual says water only... it's telling the truth.![]()
FWIW the stock pump on the PM1440GT will not handle light oil. It will run for a few minutes and shut off for 20-30 minutes. The manual says water only... it's telling the truth.![]()
I wonder if the pump would handle the semi-synthetic oil that I run in my mill. It is 90% water and it is awesome for general machining. Just a thought.
Paul
Get some small rare earth magnets and put them in a zip lock bag in the catch tray around the return hose. That way your not cleaning things out of your pipe and can probably do away with that return screen