I would like to barrel a Ruger 77 with a TIKKA barrel

[rickt300]

The thread shank on the Tikka barrek is some .200 longer than what is on a Ruger barrel. I have two ways of overcoming this. The best way would be to face the barrel off to the shank length of a normal Ruger barrel, chamfer it and then rechamber the barrel to correct headspace. The "other" way would be to screw the barrel into the action on a go headspace gauge pretty snug against the bolt, measure the distance between the shoulder of the barrel and the action, then make a spacer that dimension +.003, just for laughs maybe.

 

[jelenko]

Are they the same threads and diameter?

 

[ASD9055]

Will it need an extractor cut?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

A tikka barrel has to be better than a ruger barrel

 

[Will Henry]

A better way is to simply measure from the receiver face to the bolt face on the Ruger and record this measurement. Then insert your "go" gauge into the Tikka barrel and measure from the gauge to the shoulder. Make your spacer to the difference +.002" . WH

 

[D-mon]

So the mix of a tikka with a ruger gives a Tiger?

 

[rickt300]

A better way is to simply measure from the receiver face to the bolt face on the Ruger and record this measurement. Then insert your "go" gauge into the Tikka barrel and measure from the gauge to the shoulder. Make your spacer to the difference +.002" . WH

Sounds good to me.

 

[rickt300]

A tikka barrel has to be better than a ruger barrel

yep considering the barrel on the action is toast and never was a really good shooter. That said as a 257 Roberts it was very effective on deer using the 120 grain bullets.

 

[rickt300]

Will it need an extractor cut?

Good question.

 

[rickt300]

Will it need an extractor cut?

After some research no.

 

[rickt300]

Are they the same threads and diameter?

Yes

 

[ASD9055]

After some research no.

That makes life easier.

 

[Sniperhandle]

I actually use quite a few Tikka brand new take off barrels to rebarrel my projects, If it was me doing this, Since the tenon on the Ruger is shorter than Tikka, I would face off the breech end to get the Ruger tenon length and re-chamber to set headspace. I learned through doing this the best way to dial in the barrel is not the same as using a new blank, Using a new blank I dial in the barrel using a range at the breech end. On a re-chamber I dial in the barrel using a range rod on the muzzle end, And dial in the muzzle, And then dial in the breech end with an indicator traversing the length of the inside of the chamber going back and forth from breech to muzzle until they are as close to perfect as I can get. Indicator rods which are made to use on existing chambers are too wiggly for me to get a good reading and the old chamber should be aligned with the threads anyway. I chamber through the headstock with a spider chuck. Just the way I have learned works best for me.

 

[Sniperhandle]

Also, from my experience with new take off Tikka barrels, They are very tough material and kind of sticky and a little tougher to machine than most other barrels I have used, At least the ones I have done are. I use a quality dark cutting oil with Moly-Dee added.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Also, from my experience with new take off Tikka barrels, They are very tough material and kind of sticky and a little tougher to machine than most other barrels I have used, At least the ones I have done are. I use a quality dark cutting oil with Moly-Dee added.

Pretty sure they are hammer forged. Ruger barrels are too i believe.