Vehicle Oil Filter Recommendations?
- Thread starter TrxR
- Start date
Brians356
Silver $$ Contributor
Yes and no.
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Which ways?
Brians356
Silver $$ Contributor
It depends. Several specific examples cited by industry insiders earlier in this thread bear a close review.
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Funny that you mention that. Just the other day my father in-law was talking about working in a service station in the 50’s on Route 66. He had a guy come through going west to California and was servicing his car. The old guy pulled out a roll of TP and took a counted so many wraps around his hand, and handed it to him to replace what was in the canister. Must have worked because the same guy had him do it again on his return trip.
D-4297
Gold $$ Contributor
SSSHHH ! You're givin away all the secrets .
No sarcasm intended, anywhere . I grew up in a old fashioned Service Station , and we were all serious Mopar Guys . Crew Chief on the Hemi Royale' AA/FX , Dodge Super Bee in the early seventies , till Carter's economy killed the economy then .KB 500 c.i. Girdled Hemi .Cool. I’m more of a Swamp Rat / Don Garlet guy … good thing there’s plenty of room here for all of us. It was also a hemi
Gary in MD
Gold $$ Contributor
Drive softly… But carry a BigBlock(Chevy) !
This was a new experience for me too. 5.7L Sequoia.
Definitely feels over engineered, but I can’t tell if I like that or not.
8 quarts is a huge plus.
JayHHI6818
Silver $$ Contributor
Son changing oil on his Subaru Forster and sent this picture when he removed factory filter. Said filter particles in oil
When he drained it. So much for OEM filter. Going to cut filter open see what it looks like.
When he drained it. So much for OEM filter. Going to cut filter open see what it looks like.
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6MMsteve
Gold $$ Contributor
I change my oil at 4000 miles since I started driving, my dad said 2500 but I went 4000 or March July october Jan, never had any issues I drive a car for 10 to 12 yrs, I'm poor so oil filters don't really matter a lot but I use AC delco, KN fram, it never has time to get dirty, Tractors get every 100 hrs, grain farmers once or twice a yr
Stumpy1
Gold $$ Contributor
Oh My! That sure ain't good.
lol . . . that's really old school, changing 4000 miles or less. That used to be the way to do things 40+years ago. But with oils today with all the additives, oils can easily go 7000 without a need for changing. Of course, good filters are a factor as well.
Back in 1974 I started using synthetic oil as it had recently came on the market for automobiles. I first because aware of synthetic oils when I started working on aircraft and learned a lot about the befits of it. It was after a study was done where Mobile 1 was used in a fleet of police patrol vehicles for 50,000 miles, the engines were torn down and inspected for wear. Almost no wear was found. That's when I decide to go with synthetic, especially since I had turbo charged my cars. From that time in 1974, I started using synthetic oil I've changed oil every 25,000 miles, but because oil filter aren't designed to last that long, I'd only change the oil filter every 10,000-12,000 miles. Another nice benefit, was the engine burns less oil using synthetic and runs cleaner (emission control test people have always been surprised by how clean my engines run). These days, there are filters designed to go 20,000 miles for optimizing the use of synthetic oil. So, now I use a Fram oil filter that does that and I only change the filter for between 15-20K miles and will do a complete oil change at 30,000.
Though synthetic is the way to go, it's initial cost is more, but the way I use it, I figure is actually costs me quite a bit less. I've currently got a 17 year old SUV with 203,000 miles and not had any issues at all with it. The engine runs like a top.
Funny, back in those early days in the 70's, I'd go into an automotive store and ask if they had any synthetic oil and I'd get crazy looks . . . like, what are you talking about. One guy looks at me an not joking replied "we only carry real oil here."
Back in the 80's there was the Rutan Voyager aircraft that flew non-stop around the world (no midair refueling). And as I recall, they were using Mobile synthetic oil and sprung an oil leak near the end of the flight resulting in essentially no oil in the sump. They finished the flight with no oil pressure and the engine didn't seize up. The non-real synthetic saved their record flight.
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Do not buy into the hype or better filtration on a full flow filter. Buy the cheapest filter you can and change your oil and filter every 6 months. I have been using SuperTech filters for over 12 years no problem.
Full flow filter as used on cars should always bias towards flow not filtration. If you want better filtration beyond that go with bypass filtration.
A lot of modern engines have super low oil pressure and volume at idle some as low as 3psi. This is to improve fuel economy for tax purposes C.A.F.E. tax. I think BMW might have been the first to go with electric computer controlled variable volume and pressure oil pump. The days of 25psi to 35psi at idle and 10psi per 1000rpm are gone.
So the idea of running a larger oil filter than OEM for improved capacity today only serves to slow positive oil pressure at start up.
The more important thing is to use a quality synthetic oil and change it at least every 6 months! That is far more important than using boutique oil and spending insane money on a filter! This assumes you plan on owing the vehicle longer than 3 years 36,000 miles.
I stocked up a decade ago on clearanced SuperTech and Fram oil filters for $1 a filter and am almost out. I recently bought 24 filters for 4 different make and models from Rock Auto Champ Lubfiner for $1.51 per filter.
I buy my synthetic when ever a good deal turns up about a year ago I bought 8x6quart jugs of Havoline Synthetic for $15 per 6quart jug. That is why I can afford to change oil with synthetic every 6 months and change the filter each time.
I save my used oil to heat garage in the winter. Smarter not harder! When Penzoil Ultra Platnium was on sale for $17 per 5 quart jug I bought 4.
If you want to see if a filter is getting the job done when you order a UOA make sure you opt for the particle count that will tell you if the filter is doing the job. If a cheap filter is doing the job it is stupid to spend big on a filter. The newst car in my fleet is 2008 and the oldest is 2003 out of 4 vechiles. Not a one burns between oil changes! That includes 2 Toyota's and 2 General Motors products!
Fram's Ultra Synthetic which is a $8-$10 filter is as good if not better than Amsoil $20 full flow oil filter.
Full flow filter as used on cars should always bias towards flow not filtration. If you want better filtration beyond that go with bypass filtration.
A lot of modern engines have super low oil pressure and volume at idle some as low as 3psi. This is to improve fuel economy for tax purposes C.A.F.E. tax. I think BMW might have been the first to go with electric computer controlled variable volume and pressure oil pump. The days of 25psi to 35psi at idle and 10psi per 1000rpm are gone.
So the idea of running a larger oil filter than OEM for improved capacity today only serves to slow positive oil pressure at start up.
The more important thing is to use a quality synthetic oil and change it at least every 6 months! That is far more important than using boutique oil and spending insane money on a filter! This assumes you plan on owing the vehicle longer than 3 years 36,000 miles.
I stocked up a decade ago on clearanced SuperTech and Fram oil filters for $1 a filter and am almost out. I recently bought 24 filters for 4 different make and models from Rock Auto Champ Lubfiner for $1.51 per filter.
I buy my synthetic when ever a good deal turns up about a year ago I bought 8x6quart jugs of Havoline Synthetic for $15 per 6quart jug. That is why I can afford to change oil with synthetic every 6 months and change the filter each time.
I save my used oil to heat garage in the winter. Smarter not harder! When Penzoil Ultra Platnium was on sale for $17 per 5 quart jug I bought 4.
If you want to see if a filter is getting the job done when you order a UOA make sure you opt for the particle count that will tell you if the filter is doing the job. If a cheap filter is doing the job it is stupid to spend big on a filter. The newst car in my fleet is 2008 and the oldest is 2003 out of 4 vechiles. Not a one burns between oil changes! That includes 2 Toyota's and 2 General Motors products!
Fram's Ultra Synthetic which is a $8-$10 filter is as good if not better than Amsoil $20 full flow oil filter.
I am lose to 50 years old. When I was a kid Dad changed oil every 1800 miles Castrol GTX 20W50! I turned him onto synthetic oil in 1990's but I had been using it since late 1980's.
Oil is better than ever but modern engine designs are the worst they have been in 20 years. Excessive oil consumption is almost a global pandemic.
If you show me yours I will show you mine. 20 your old Toyota.
Oil is better than ever but modern engine designs are the worst they have been in 20 years. Excessive oil consumption is almost a global pandemic.
If you show me yours I will show you mine. 20 your old Toyota.
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Check all the vacuum lines and the air filter and duct work. If you keep the dirt out and the oil matches the usage and change interval not a lot for the oil filter to do short of catastrophic failure. Most junk in an engine is either from garbage oil or from debrigh getting past air filter into the oil.
i have been sending in samples to be analyzed for many years.
with oil changes in the 5 to 7 thousand mile range on Cummins diesels the reports were always that i could go farther.
so the newest vehicle has a computer and tells me when to change and after a looooong time and many miles i sent in a sample and promptly was told that i needed to cut that distance in half. so now i send samples when i change at 5000 mi and the reports are normal.
i am very surprised more people don't send in samples but rely on hearsay.
the company used synthetics in their back up generators and took oil samples every year. oil went many years before a change on the turbines i checked. the old cat piston engins had a 50 gal drum of oil to keep the oil pan full, but i think it was dino oil. it was not my responsibility to do them.
there are interesting ways to keep an engine running on good oil.
back when the global winter scare was in full swing we had a safety class given by a fellow that had just finished setting up
caterpiller dozers for some cold place like greenland or the ar
with oil changes in the 5 to 7 thousand mile range on Cummins diesels the reports were always that i could go farther.
so the newest vehicle has a computer and tells me when to change and after a looooong time and many miles i sent in a sample and promptly was told that i needed to cut that distance in half. so now i send samples when i change at 5000 mi and the reports are normal.
i am very surprised more people don't send in samples but rely on hearsay.
the company used synthetics in their back up generators and took oil samples every year. oil went many years before a change on the turbines i checked. the old cat piston engins had a 50 gal drum of oil to keep the oil pan full, but i think it was dino oil. it was not my responsibility to do them.
there are interesting ways to keep an engine running on good oil.
back when the global winter scare was in full swing we had a safety class given by a fellow that had just finished setting up
caterpiller dozers for some cold place like greenland or the ar
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