Vehicle Oil Filter Recommendations?

[Ernest T]

I haven't changed the oil in my truck or my wife's car in 20 years. I just take it to the dealer and let them do it for $40. I still change the oil in our motor home, my motorcycles, and our lawn equipment though. Changing the oil in the autos just seems like a chore while working on the others seems like fun. It's not fun taking 24 quarts of oil to the recycling place though.

 

[D-4297]

If FRAM filters are good enough for Matt Hagans Power Brokers Hemi-powered Funny car , and Leah Pruitts P/B Top Fuel Dragster , they're good enough for me . MOPAR or NO CAR !

 

[3Sigma]

Oem engine development engineer for 8 years.

For cannister types, use OEM. The bypass pressure is designed into the system, so if it plugs, you still get oil to the important bits. Aftermarket doesn't have to meet this, and may or may not even have a bypass valve.

Change sooner than advertised. Run good quality oil. Anything will do as long as the interval is under the time it takes for TBN to go bad, viscosity to break down, or oil soot to go above 0.2% (diesel). The only way to know this is to get oil samples analyzed. Otherwise, go with 3000 to 5000 miles. I just bought a new truck last year and every change has been tested. I've never hit Ford's recommend interval.

All this is good, except I run a Mann on the wife's BMW. They make the oem filters and it is a cartridge design with no bypass. Just a lot cheaper as it doesn't say BMW on it.

 

[3Sigma]

If you really want to have a good time, you should ask what the best oil is on a motorcycle web site. Especially an esoteric site like a Moto Guzzi or BMW site. Of course judging from this thread, the same thing may happen here.

Amen!

And Mobil1 or Castrol synthetic in mine. Except the KTM that got Motorex.

 

[3Sigma]

Also, be careful using motorsports as a proving ground. Those engines rarely see the hours on the oil for filtration to matter (oil change each race, etc.). Most play with viscosity to get extra power and walk the line between performance and durability we would never deem sane in our daily drivers.

 

[gatguy]

Remember the days when they were using toilet rolls in the canister??

 

[butchlambert]

Remember the days when they were using toilet rolls in the canister??

Frantz filters?

 

[butchlambert]

If FRAM filters are good enough for Matt Hagans Power Brokers Hemi-powered Funny car , and Leah Pruitts P/B Top Fuel Dragster , they're good enough for me . MOPAR or NO CAR !

Ones that I have seen are drysump and a fine brass screen.

 

[Tim Singleton]

Fuel Filter 5 8x24, 1 2 28 Solvent Trap; Napa 4003 Oil Wix 24003 Monocore Gas Adapter inline Replacement

5 8 24, 1 2 28 fuel filter solvent trap 7075 Aluminium wix 24003 Oil/Gas Stainless Stail Filters Fast and Free Shipping from California Warehouse Most mechanical features of machines are susceptible to damage due to solvents, and contaminants and dirty debris in the fuel. If you’re using fuel...

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[butchlambert]

Check the Oberg filtering system

 

[rijndael]

If FRAM filters are good enough for Matt Hagans Power Brokers Hemi-powered Funny car , and Leah Pruitts P/B Top Fuel Dragster , they're good enough for me . MOPAR or NO CAR !

Was there sarcasm in this? If so, I missed it.

A blown nitromethane motor has almost nothing in common with your daily driver, other than they're both internal combustion engines.

Oil and filter life is measured in a handful of seconds and/or minutes. Seriously. They have such serious fuel dilution problems, making the oil look like honey mustard, it gets changed after the engine has been warmed up and before the run, all 10-15 quarts of it. They need fresh oil for the start of each pass.

 

[DogBuster]

Wix XP is their top of the line...

K&N produces their 'HP'series comes with a one inch nut welded to the back

These are great for tight spots......use the nut only for removal though..'not tighten'

Fram builds their 'XG' series for synthetic oils & 10K mile changes same as the Wix XP

OEM is always good.....Toyota for example are always recommended ......usually well under $5

Refer to the forum 'Bob the oil guy' good info there

 

[rijndael]

OEM is always good.....Toyota for example are always recommended ......usually well under $5

Yep, I'm an OEM guy. But, I also don't push OCIs to 10K either. I especially wouldn't do it with a DGI or anything with cam phasers.

 

[Bob3700]

No one has mentioned Mobil 1 filters. During oil filter tests, they always rank very high for filtration , quality of internal construction and by-pass operation. They are not cheap but my vehicles don’t see a lot of mileage each year. I am usually changing due to time, not miles.

 

[DogBuster]

No one has mentioned Mobil 1 filters. During oil filter tests, they always rank very high for filtration , quality of internal construction and by-pass operation. They are not cheap but my vehicles don’t see a lot of mileage each year. I am usually changing due to time, not miles.

Never used Mobil One filters......reviews are good

I've been known to just change filter at 3500.....top oil level back up

Drive another 3K-3500 miles....especially if the filter is easy.....

I hate the new Toyota canister style filters.......OMG

Who was in on that meeting ? Wife's GX 460 w/4.6L Toyota has this canister BS filter

Holds 8 qts oil though

 

[MikeMcCasland]

Missed this thread.

Bobistheoilguy forums are a good place to go nerd out on oil.

After a lot of research I've come to the conclusion that it generally doesn't matter that much so long as it meets spec, and is changed at a relatively reasonable interval. That said, I kinda geek out on this stuff, so you won't find any purolators etc. on my vehicles.

The Frams have a bad name online, but until very recently their top of the line synthetic filters delivered some of the best bang for the buck from a filtering perspective. (99% at 20 microns for like $5-6 per). I think they just went through a design change that has some folks moving away from them.

I'm partial to the AMSOIL/Royal Purple models made by champ labs, but they are expensive.

I'll also say the motorcraft filters aren't anything special. Some are better than others in the MC (made by purolator) line-up. I have a 12-pack of the FL-500s in my garage, but you couldn't pay me to put an FL-820s on anything I cared about.

Again, I don't know how much it matters... because assuming the vehicle had its oil changed regularly, when was the last time you heard of a modern vehicle suffering an oil-related failure?

 

[rijndael]

when was the last time you heard of a modern vehicle suffering an oil-related failure?

Oil related failures are common. You can get varnish problems, especially in PCVs. You get Increased crankcase pressures, which causes more oil burning. Clogged VVT screens and shortened turbo life are other common failures.

If you're talking about oil related failures with shorter & regular OCIs? It is less common, but definitely not unheard-of.

IMO, 10K OCIs were not introduced to maximize powertrain longevity.

but you couldn't pay me to put an FL-820s on anything I cared about.

The FL-820 is a decent filter. It's made for Ford Racing. It's a different animal than the regular FL-820S. The lowercase "s" you used makes me think you were saying plural FL-820 rather than the FL-820S.

 

[Fuj]

Puralator and Mobil one. I average 13 years of ownership
and never had one in the shop for an engine problem. All
oil changes are between 3000/5000 miles.

 

[Louisiana Shooter]

My family had many Dodge minivans and Dakota trucks. Had one truck make too 400,000+ miles when it was sold........and it was still running good. All the vans had a minimum of 200,000 on them when they were sold or traded in. All were still running good.

We let the local mechanic shop do all the oil changes around 5k. What ever he used, worked.........."If it ain't broke don't fix it." Going to continue with what has been working for me and my family all these years.

 

[Brians356]

I'd worry more about using a good oil, especially in older models. Oil has changed over the last 20 years, or less, and not all for the better. They have removed most of the zinc that was common in petroleum based oils for ages. Cam lube is heavy in zinc and zinc is what keeps a camshaft and flat tappet engine together. Not a huge deal in roller lifter engines, which many are now. Mt thinking is, if it was necessary at that high friction area, it has to be good. Just my 2 cents. Most diesel rated oils still do contain zinc.

Careful, most no longer contain enough ZDDP (zinc+phosphorus). The "green" [sic] diesel fuel mandates necessitated removal of most of that additive. Those most likely to have high ZDDP are the higher-viscosity oils. You really need to look at the spec sheet for a particular oil, but details matter. For example, Shell Rotella's FAQ says (emphasis added):

"Most Shell Rotella engine oils, including T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil, contain approximately 1200 ppm of zinc which will benefit older and high-performance engines."

However, they don't specifically mention phosphorous (or ZDDP) so I'm wary of that attempt to assure.

The conventional wisdom for flat-tappet lifters is that at least 1200 ppm of both zinc and phosphorus (as ZDDP) are required for long cam wear. The car in my avatar is a '59 Porsche, which requires appropriate oil for its flat tappets and also higher viscosity for hot-running air-cooled operation. With modern emissions controls (catalytic converters) ZDDP quickly disappeared from most motor oil. The vocal classic car community started squealing about 20 years ago. Soon many conventional oils in 40 to 50 weights for "older engines" appeared, marketed as "high ZDDP", but synthetics lagged. Now some synthetics , like Mobil 1 15W-50 (1300 ppm zinc, 1200 ppm phosphorous) and others, are marketed as containing the magic ppm of ZDDP.


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