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I guess different mfrs do different things. There have been pics of x-rays posted before of a few of the different barrels. If the barrel looks cool to the customer and meets the weight and accuracy requirements i could care less whats underneath. The x-ray of the mfr tac284 posted above did show that exact contour in the ad pic by the way so not all barrel mfrs are the same when it comes to whats underneathThanks Shooter71 for posting the pic of what was under the carbon. I did know that it was a turned down barrels, but I was under the impression that it was a thinner barrel than that and more of the carbon was used. You just opened my eyes to falling into the carbon light weight pitch. I know that carbon is expensive and the process is also expensive to create. But I have to admit that I thought there was more carbon, or the wrapping was much thicker than what is in your pic.
It is a eye opener for me. I agree with tac284 with his rendition, it is closer to what I was thinking also, a much thinner barrel contour. I will just get a fluted barrel from here on out if I want to save a few ounces.
Thanks again.
Knowing how something is manufactured is not the same as directly measuring it, and I’m free to satisfy my own curiosity as I see fit. I chamber a lot of carbon barrels from the top mfgs and see trends regarding straightness, land/groove consistency etc. and how they shoot. To date the only barrels I’ve had to send back have been carbon wrapped. I’m to the point of refusing to work on them but customers continue to buy them.^^^
How did you think CF barrels were manufactured?
This is why i use them for sure.You willing to do this with a steel barrel? I like them. 3lbs 3oz, for a 26" .308 barrel. Large diameter makes a brake very efficient. I can't imagine the fluting required to get a 5.9 lb barrel down to 3.19 lbs. After I watched the video below, I quit worrying about how I hold them in lathe.
That is devastating on bearings and such, it is very abrasive. It will fry electric motors if the dust gets in them also. It is even worse on your lungs along with fiberglass dust.I have done g10 for pillars and the fiberglass didnt bother me. This stuff was nasty and felt very abrasive. I do stock inlets all the time but the ways are covered and shop vac is going. Still a mess though. This stuff went straight to the ways and sucked through the spindle to cover the outboard gears too. I'm surprised they can find guys to do these things.
Sorry to hijack the thread gents. I do quite a bit of work for Boeing (both commercial and defense) and we run a bunch of phenolic for them and have for years on the same machines. I have 3 Haas mills that we ONLY run this stuff on. The main thing is to have a vacuum system that has more power than you think you'll need and be able to evacuate the dust and collect it OUTSIDE of your shop. However, I will say that I don't have any experience running it on manuals or open mills so I can't speak to that. But y'all are right in the fact that this stuff will tear up a machine if not taken care of. Also, use old stuff...haha Attached is a pic of one of my machines with the suction system I use (hose in machine can be moved around if needed) and it goes into barrels OUTSIDE the shop and it still gets dirty after a while.That is devastating on bearings and such, it is very abrasive. It will fry electric motors if the dust gets in them also. It is even worse on your lungs along with fiberglass dust.
Guy is not too bright standing in front of a shooting bench with a young man sitting up on a rifle, That's an accident waiting to happen.You willing to do this with a steel barrel? I like them. 3lbs 3oz, for a 26" .308 barrel. Large diameter makes a brake very efficient. I can't imagine the fluting required to get a 5.9 lb barrel down to 3.19 lbs. After I watched the video below, I quit worrying about how I hold them in lathe.