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reset sizing die when changing brass brand, lot, etc?

p5200

I have some Lapua, Federal, and Hornady brass in 6.5 creedmoor should I need to reset sizing die for correct bump when changing from one brand to another, or just check to be on the safe side? Also, how many of you use the feeler gauge approach when bumping back the shoulders? Thanks! :)
 
p5200 said:
I have some Lapua, Federal, and Hornady brass in 6.5 creedmoor should I need to reset sizing die for correct bump when changing from one brand to another, or just check to be on the safe side? Also, how many of you use the feeler gauge approach when bumping back the shoulders? Thanks! :)
Click to expand...
Look at Erik Cortina's video on quickly and accurately adjusting bump.
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Why are you asking other people. Sounds like you have a bump gauge. A few measurements will tell you the answer. I would think they would all FF to about the same dimensions. Different spring back?
 
I can't see where it would change but I would always check it just to be sure. Like Webster said, spring back would probably be the factor that would cause any deviation in the final product.
 


If you’re using several kinds, I’m sure you’re resizing them batched by headstamp, and that’s great.

A click adjustable sizer from whidden would be ideal, but Forster not makes a lock ring with graduations on it, and I love it. The sharpie dot was installed by yours truly.
 
Rigidity of press and technique could be an issue.
I have two variations of brass for my 22 Nosler.
Heavy/thick 6mm Hagar sized to 22 Nosler and Nosler/Dogtown brass.
Press is a 4 hole Lee operated without indexing. Not the best but no cam over.
When bumping the Hagar brass I go slow, pause, and bump to the stop again.
I get the same measurement as the nosler.NOSGAR.jpg
 
Clancy said:


If you’re using several kinds, I’m sure you’re resizing them batched by headstamp, and that’s great.

A click adjustable sizer from whidden would be ideal, but Forster not makes a lock ring with graduations on it, and I love it. The sharpie dot was installed by yours truly.
Click to expand...
Nice, I'm using a Forster Coax so that probably wouldn't work for correct?
 
If you’re just not wanting to adjust the die, that’s understandable. I’d set it at .002 for the brand you have the most of and cross reference the other brands. You might get lucky.
 
Several questions come to mind here . Are you loading for accuracy ? Are you loading different brass groups for competition ? Are you annealing after fired , and how often ? I shoot two different brands of Brass in my M-N Open rifle , S&B and Winchester . It's a tight chamber , but with a standard neck dimension , so I don't have to fool with turning necks . But there is a difference in Shoulder "Bump Length" between the two different cases . S&B bumps back .001 much easier than the Win Brass , even though they are both annealed .
 
I split hairs on bump measurements for my strictly accuracy/bench rifles. Typically I bump .001. In the short range group game many use the same small set of cases all weekend, perhaps 20, FL Sizing them every time. What I have found is that the setting that produces .001 with brass that just has three firings on it will at some point not give me any at all because of work hardening and the increased springiness that comes with it. If I am loading for an application where I use .002 bump, it will take a lot longer for this to happen, and then only if the number of firings on a set of cases gets to a high number. For non semiautomatic applications I prefer to limit my bump to .002. In any case, I try to shoot all sets of cases in rotation to do my best to have the same number of firings and sizings for each within that set. With regard to different brands, it has been my experience that they differ in springiness. Generally for these reasons every time I begin sizing, I measure a the first couple of cases before and after sizing.
 
I have always found that different brass and/or work hardned brass will always be a little different on bumping the shoulder, as always YMMV. I don't anneal but shoot short range bench rest mainly. BTW, I have grown fond of the adjustable die lock ring from PMA (check one out one on there web site) has made shoulder bump adjustment a breeze, YMMV rule applys here also....
 
There is no limit on the number of times you can run brass through an annealer...as long as it cools between each time...if you are bumping each case to within .0005...stubborn brass may require more than 1 cycle
 
I find the Redding Comp shell holders work good for shoulder bump on different brand cases and even on same brand cases that work harden if you do not anneal.
 
I’ve noticed quite a bit of difference in belted cases by brand. Caught it pretty quick but definitely I check now with all of them
 
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