Stock paint stripping

[P1ZombieKiller]

I have never done this before, so requesting input from those that have been there and done that.

I want to strip the paint off this stock without damaging the bedding. Any suggestions on what chemical to use? What NOT to use?

I am going to do something weird and different. Not 100% sure yet, but probably some type of photo transfer or hydrodipping. @Bc'z

 

[P1ZombieKiller]

I believe this is painted with automotive paint and automotive clear coat.

@LONGRIFLES do you remember what type of paint you used?
Maybe you can tell me the best way to strip the paint off?

 

[Hntndad]

if you use a stripper.. make sure you give her 80 grit.

 

[Link]

Why not just giver a good sanding then paint? Buy some rattlecan paint and get creative. ;]

 

[P1ZombieKiller]

Why not just giver a good sanding then paint? Buy some rattlecan paint and get creative. ;]

Gotta make weight. I am already right at max weight. I am.assuming there is 4-6 oz of paint and clear coat on there.

 

[Bc'z]

This...
And a lil bit of elbow grease.
Well maybe a lot of elbow grease!!
Start with 80grit block it down, you can use a DA sander on the flats just be sure to block it straight afterwards.
Block existing primer with 150-180 grit before primer.
Finish primer in 600 after blocking it 240-320 grit.

 

[Bc'z]

if you use a stripper.. make sure you give her 80 grit.

I use 80grit...
Does that make me a stripper??

 

[P1ZombieKiller]

I use 80grit...
Does that make me a stripper??

So no chemicals.... just elbow grease?

 

[std7mag]

Like autos, or any other painted surface for that matter, if the paint is holding then there is no need to completely remove it.
Putting scratches in the base will allow any new paint to adhere.

Listen to Bc'z on matters of stock painting!

@Bc'z
I've got my dollar bills!

 

[Bc'z]

So no chemicals.... just elbow grease?

Correct!!
I'll only use chemical stripper on aluminum and steel automotive parts than aren't favorable of mechanical stripping.
Fiberglass, carbon fiber, gelcoats plastics are not good substrates for chemicals.
Sure they make products to use on them, I'm just not a believer.

 

[Bc'z]

Like autos, or any other painted surface for that matter, if the paint is holding then there is no need to completely remove it.
Putting scratches in the base will allow any new paint to adhere.

Listen to Bc'z on matters of stock painting!

@Bc'z
I've got my dollar bills!

And I've got some new shoes!!

 

[P1ZombieKiller]

Like autos, or any other painted surface for that matter, if the paint is holding then there is no need to completely remove it.
Putting scratches in the base will allow any new paint to adhere.

Listen to Bc'z on matters of stock painting!

@Bc'z
I've got my dollar bills!

I will look into that. Maybe I can lose 3/4" off the barrel length.

 

[std7mag]

Depends on what your barrel length is, and how your planning on using the rifle.
While you won't lose a lot of velocity, if your shooting long range, you might want to keep said velocity.
Short range, no problem.

Or.....

Since you have the stock off already, possibly take the buttpad off & remove some wood from the inside of the buttstock?

 

[WyleWD]

I will look into that. Maybe I can lose 3/4" off the barrel length.

JME, but I'd sand and paint (or dip) the stock, then check your weight before shortening the barrel and drilling the stock. You'll lose some weight by sanding, and the new coat(s) of paint or dip won't add as much weigh as one might think. Keep in mind that most of what paint comes out of a rattle can is solvent which evaporates (or flashes off). JME. WD