That's only going to be marginally stable at sea level. What level are you? My 6BR loves 105 but I also run a 7.5 twist barrel1 in 8 twist, 28” barrel. 6 BR, 29grns H4895, 2,825 FPS.
That's only going to be marginally stable at sea level. What level are you? My 6BR loves 105 but I also run a 7.5 twist barrel1 in 8 twist, 28” barrel. 6 BR, 29grns H4895, 2,825 FPS.
Case separation is more a function of shifting the shoulders back excessively during resizing. Even reasonable loads will produce separation if your dies are set wrong.... This load is “HOT”, as in “HOT”. ... I experienced Case Head Separation on the 9th reload. ..
The muzzle velocity does have some effect since the total RPM is a result of the twist at a speed, however in practical terms trying to get a bullet to stabilize with a hotter load is a risky method compared to just selecting the right twist for the bullet.My conclusion is, or speculation, a marginally stable bullet in a 1 in 8 twist can stabilize when pushed to it’s upper safe velocity limit ?
These three examples are true when they take place. But, none of them happened in the experience I related. I purchased 400 pieces of New brass, and they will be loaded to a lower node.Case separation is more a function of shifting the shoulders back excessively during resizing. Even reasonable loads will produce separation if your dies are set wrong.
The more telling symptom is primer pockets opening up to quickly fail to hold a primer
I think you need to check the twist. Possible you have a 1 in10.One other data point, I shot some of my 105 VLD loads that shot well in my previous barrel and those too didn’t shoot well.
I’m starting to wonder if it’s the barrel…
Good idea. Confirmed, 1:8I think you need to check the twist. Possible you have a 1 in10.
Check your systems. Either something is loose on the gun, the barrel is very poor quality, or some part of your reloading setup is not functioning. If your rifle cant get a 105 hyb to shoot well below moa out of a 1-8 6br with varget there is something wrong.
Take the rifle apart and reassemble to make sure everything is properly torqued and the barrel is floating free. Scope base and scope rings all tightened to spec and solid. Make sure your barrel is installed properly and you can't just spin it off with your hands. If you have a bore scope check to see if there is something obviously wrong in the bore. Check the consistency of your reloads. Use 2 different scales to verify powder charge. Check your brass for headspace variation and excess headspace. Make sure your setup produces consistent neck tension. I've seen something like this happening when some bullets end up touching the lands and some not at shot start. If you have enough neck tension to hold the bullet so you cant move it check each round for seating depth to insure consistency.
Once you are sure the rifle is assembled correctly and your reloads are consistent with charge and dimensions, if it still shoots poorly you either have bad powder, primers, bullets, or barrel. Try different powder, primer, and bullet. If that doesn't shoot its probably the barrel or you have undiagnosed Parkinson's or something.
And take off the magneto when shooting for groups. Use it to compare the velocity stats of loads that produced good groups.
Good luck trouble shooting. Keep us posted.
That will be my next step after the next range trip.put on the old bbl and see if it still shoots---then change the scope--keep it simple---what distance are you testing at--you dont have to shoot at 600yds or a mile to see if thaings are good or bad--test at 100yds to save time-components-anxienty--if it wont shoot a bughole at 100 it wont shoot good on out --
Roger